39 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

I reckon you could work round the gear linkage if that's the only issue against manual, GTM's do. You'd need to fit an hydraulic clutch pedal though.

[peter-b]

The Daihatsu Hijet motor could be mated to the charade gearbox.

[peter-b]

Regarding the mini engine, why can't the pick up be 'replumbed' towards the back of engine.

[Spider]

Regarding the mini engine, why can't the pick up be 'replumbed' towards the back of engine.

 

On an auto (as per the opening post) they already are down the back, (unless on the later models they moved them up front?);-

 

 

Every Auto Box I've stripped, the Main Oil Pick Up is down the back, next to and under the diff.

[peter-b]

problem solved.

[Squat36]

Cool. Mini engine back in the frame! Thanks for the picture.

 

Thought about bike engine (ride a Honda CG125+Ducati996) but there is the expense of a bespoke diff (quade is really pricey), plus the reverse issue to sort (electric motor seems only sensible option, because of the space I would want the engine to be in backwards ideally which further complicates. Would be cheap for the bits though.

 

As it looks as though the oil pick up is in the rear then angling it back shouldn't give an issue, next question is what is the difference on the front of an automatic to the front of a manual engine? anything extra sticking out that cant be relocated?

I have a friends manual engine wedged in the gap at the moment which is how I know it kind of fits. Will take some pictures tonight and post later.

 

Also what is the best mini engine to go for? anyone got one for sale? would ideally want the full set up. Not going for performance, just reliability and enough to get above 50 mph occasionally. Van engine was a 660cc 40'ish BHP CVT set up and that got it to 50 before it blew (the first time) so anything 50HP and above would be ideal.

[cal844]

Thanks. Bummer that the auto is oil level sensitive.
Have looked at Smarts but they seem to have a lot of head issues and not the most reliable for a modern car. May be the only option.
Wankel hmmmmm.
Van is auto so doesn't have a tunnel and to convert would mean losing the seats and moving fuel tank.

Smarts are only prone to problems because of the **** servicing they usually get... Most don't get serviced basically because there's no oil drain plug, it needs to be sucked out and replaced, apparently.

Thats correct!

[sonikk4]

Well if you are going to stick with A series then a 1275 auto would be best. A bit more grunt and torque.

[Squat36]

What a weird design decision on the Smart. Everything else looks well thought out but no easy way to drain and replace the oil. Thats odd.

[Carlos W]

What a weird design decision on the Smart. Everything else looks well thought out but no easy way to drain and replace the oil. Thats odd.

 

There's a few Mercs like this.

 

It means you're more likely to take it back to the dealer who have a machine to suck the oil out

[nicklouse]

What a weird design decision on the Smart. Everything else looks well thought out but no easy way to drain and replace the oil. Thats odd.

not really as it might be for time effective that way at a dealer service.
less mess and more control.

[Jonny1812]

What a weird design decision on the Smart. Everything else looks well thought out but no easy way to drain and replace the oil. Thats odd.

not really as it might be for time effective that way at a dealer service.less mess and more control.

A local bmw Mercedes specialist used to run the engine without the filter to empty it, just got to turn it off before it starts clicking.....

[nicklouse]

Hi. I am looking to squeeze an engine into a Subaru Sambar van. A mini automatic engine should fit but only if tilted backwards by about 20 degrees.
Anyone any experience of laying an engine backwards? Any reasonable reason why this wouldn't work? Oil dip stick will be on the high section.
Will modify the inlet so the carb stays level.
Any help appreciated.
ps van was a rear engine rear wheel drive. Can't find anything decent that had this set up (vw doesn't fit) so looking for a really slim engine that has minimal engine in front of the drive shafts, hence mini engine. Have dummy fitted a manual to check for space and need to rotate backwards to get the drive shafts to line up. Any photos of the difference between a manual and automatic lower engine/gear housing would be great.
Thanks
Squat

So what year is this van?
What emissions rules does it have to comply with?

I would check out the rules first.

[monkey]

http://www.amazon.co...n/dp/B002EJ2GUC

This would work to change the oil on a smart engine.

I'm not knocking the a-series, I love minis and the a-series, and maybe I am being a bit nosey, but I can't help but wonder why if you are going to the bother of an engine swap, why opt for an a-series? Surly half the point of an engine swap is to get something more modern? If a lack of sump plug is the only reason not to even consider something like a smart engine, then I would re-consider! The 698cc apparently puts out around 60hp, doesn't sound too shabby to me!

Hope this helps,

Steve

[FlyingScot]

http://www.amazon.co...n/dp/B002EJ2GUC
This would work to change the oil on a smart engine.
I'm not knocking the a-series, I love minis and the a-series, and maybe I am being a bit nosey, but I can't help but wonder why if you are going to the bother of an engine swap, why opt for an a-series? Surly half the point of an engine swap is to get something more modern? If a lack of sump plug is the only reason not to even consider something like a smart engine, then I would re-consider! The 698cc apparently puts out around 60hp, doesn't sound too shabby to me!
Hope this helps,
Steve

Got one of those, use it to change the oil in the lawnmower and have used it on a Volvo XC90. No mess.

FS