15 replies to this topic

[minimissions]

hi all finally got the chance to go out and have a proper look at my cluuby estates brakes.

The problem has cone since l2b haven't driven it in a while so decided to take it out for a drive few weeks back pulled out the garage put foot on brake and the pedal went down but didn't come back up. Pull it back up by hand it stays up but then once down again only want to get it back up is by hand.

Now thought this could be a poor master cylinder so have replaced this as have never liked the look of it, but since owning the car the brakes have never been good enough. Have full new cooper S set up, up front after changing these still not better everything is new on the rear etc car has stopped but just never well I don't expect amazing brakes there isn't a servo as car is 1977 so not expecting amazing stopping but something would be great and now it has come to no brakes and no pedal even after new master cylinder and full bleed up...

Only thing I can think of is a pedal box spring, not sure how all that works but looks as if the spring isn't coming back and almost spinning round from looking at my girlfriends mini hers seems to stay still and push pedal box... is this common or has it been heard of before...

Any help would be great thanks

[KernowCooper]

Sounds like a pedal return spring issue

[minimissions]

Right ok cool was thinking that could be the only thing.. Can you just replace that or whole pedal box?

Thanks

[mikal]

It will be the shaft seizing in the pedal box. you need to remove it (can be a *******!) clean the gunk/ corrosion off it. The bushes in my car were fine. Be patient removing the shaft to avoid damaging it and don't lose your temper!!

 

Cheers

 

Mikal

[Spider]

It will be the shaft seizing in the pedal box. you need to remove it (can be a *******!) clean the gunk/ corrosion off it. The bushes in my car were fine. Be patient removing the shaft to avoid damaging it and don't lose your temper!!

 

Cheers

 

Mikal

 

This is what I've found too with non-returning pedals.

 

99 times out of 100, at some previous time a M/C was leaking, some of which finds it's way on to the pedal shaft. The fluid sucks up moisture from the air and causes the shaft to rust.

[minimissions]

Thanks guys it does look like a right ******* of a job to do not looking forward to it but needs must that's classic for you.... Thanks for your guideance... Will keep my cool lol

[Ethel]

You can lift the pedal by hand and see if the spring follows it. You can strip the pedals from the box in situ if you drop the heater - the nice BMC design engineers had the forethought to put the pivot shaft in the right way round .

[minimissions]

Ok cool thanks that's worth bearing in mind, going to try and get hold of a better pedal box and go from there I think :)

[Readers14]

It will be the shaft seizing in the pedal box. you need to remove it (can be a *******!) clean the gunk/ corrosion off it. The bushes in my car were fine. Be patient removing the shaft to avoid damaging it and don't lose your temper!!
 
Cheers
 
Mikal

 
This is what I've found too with non-returning pedals.
 
99 times out of 100, at some previous time a M/C was leaking, some of which finds it's way on to the pedal shaft. The fluid sucks up moisture from the air and causes the shaft to rust.

Sorry to drag up an old post, but would this be the pedal shaft under the dash or the pedal shaft in the engine bay going to the master cylinder...... or both?
My brake pedal is not returning after spending the winter months in the garage.

Pics would be a bonus! :)

Edited by Readers14, 07 June 2017 - 05:35 PM.

[Spider]

The shaft referred to is the one under the dash in a very awkward place to get at.

 

While they can be taken out and replaced 'in situ', I take the whole pedal box out, while time consuming, it's much easier and you don't have to invent new words.

[Readers14]

The shaft referred to is the one under the dash in a very awkward place to get at.
 
While they can be taken out and replaced 'in situ', I take the whole pedal box out, while time consuming, it's much easier and you don't have to invent new words.

I was hoping you weren't going to say that! :)
I'll see if I can take the pedal box out, and get it cleaned up.

[Spider]

While possibly not obvious, remove the steering column first, it will open up access considerably for the inside stuff.

[Readers14]

Thought I'd solved it by removing the clevis pin at the master cylinder end, loosening off the pedal cross shaft at the pedal end & giving a few taps to move it along a bit.
The brake pedal seemed to free up after that.
However, when tightening up the cross shaft, the pedal seems hard to return again.

Not really wanting to remove the steering column.

[nicklouse]

Sounds like you have found the problem. Friction in the Assy on the shaft.

Lube and waggling with the nut loose to aid some lubrication into the bush surfaces. Then tighten up and waggle more to help get. The sides cleaned up.

Ideally I would be pulling it and cleaning and lubing up the pivot points.

[Readers14]

Sounds like you have found the problem. Friction in the Assy on the shaft.

Lube and waggling with the nut loose to aid some lubrication into the bush surfaces. Then tighten up and waggle more to help get. The sides cleaned up.

Ideally I would be pulling it and cleaning and lubing up the pivot points.

 

Yeah, it does seem as though that is the problem.

 

I'll try to remove the cross shaft completely

May need to remove the heater assembly to push the cross shaft back in.