26 replies to this topic

[TheJack]

Title says it all, it won't tighten! It comes out put won't fully tighten! Now it's slowly leaking oil!

[Jordie]

stripped gearbox threads........may need a helicoil to repair.

 

Its usually the box that strips, but check the plug anyway.

[alex-95]

The ally sump has stripped from over tightening it. you'll need to get it helicoiled or a "thread reducer" ( don't no what other name to give it). tap the sump to a bigger size than original, get a bolt with a the same thread on it and then drill and tap the bolt to the original size thread.

You can by tapered sump lugs but these can damage the hole more, wouldn't recommend them.

[sonikk4]

http://www.theminifo...thread-on-sump/

 

http://www.theminifo...rain-plug-size/

[alex-95]

http://www.theminifo...ug-issue/page-2

 

Bobby, maybe this might help give you a better picture?

 

 

The hollow M20 bolt is screwed and loctited in to the Gearbox, theoretically never to be removed again, then a stock Sump Plug is fitted in to the hollow bo

 

lt.

 

Then, every time you change the oil, instead of taking some of the Gearbox Case away with the removal of the Plug, it's steel on steel, so dosen't bugger up.

 

[TheJack]

http://www.theminifo...ug-issue/page-2

 

Bobby, maybe this might help give you a better picture?

 

 

The hollow M20 bolt is screwed and loctited in to the Gearbox, theoretically never to be removed again, then a stock Sump Plug is fitted in to the hollow bo

 

lt.

 

Then, every time you change the oil, instead of taking some of the Gearbox Case away with the removal of the Plug, it's steel on steel, so dosen't bugger up.

 

This kit? http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B00EO4NQMW

Edited by JackoCola, 12 September 2015 - 05:35 PM.

[TheJack]

The ally sump has stripped from over tightening it. you'll need to get it helicoiled or a "thread reducer" ( don't no what other name to give it). tap the sump to a bigger size than original, get a bolt with a the same thread on it and then drill and tap the bolt to the original size thread.

You can by tapered sump lugs but these can damage the hole more, wouldn't recommend them.

So if I got this lot would it work?

http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...725.m3641.l6368

 

and a new sump plug?

[Guess-Works.com]

You wont fit that drill bit into a standard chuck, it's for a morse taper.

 

You want a 16.5mm drill bit to for a 13mm (or smaller) chuck

 

You will then need a **** load of luck to actually get it straight with the engine in the car... I recommend you remove all engine steadies and lean the engine as far forward as possible, obviously up on a ramp or axle stands, and remove the front wheel... access is the limiting factor to repairing a sump plug.

Edited by Guess-Works.com, 12 September 2015 - 07:58 PM.

[TheJack]

You wont fit that drill bit into a standard chuck, it's for a morse taper.
 
You want a 16.5mm drill bit to for a 13mm (or smaller) chuck
 
You will then need a **** load of luck to actually get it straight with the engine in the car... I recommend you remove all engine steadies and lean the engine as far forward as possible, obviously up on a ramp or axle stands, and remove the front wheel... access is the limiting factor to repairing a sump plug.

Jesus! Is there no other opition?

[Guess-Works.com]

to see how tight access is, try and get a socket on the sump plug while it's attached to a 12" extension bar. Then imagine trying to get drill bit and drill square.
 

[TheJack]

to see how tight access is, try and get a socket on the sump plug while it's attached to a 12" extension bar. Then imagine trying to get drill bit and drill square.
 

Is it worth getting a tapping sump plug from minispares? Been reading up on them and not sure if it's the best idea! I just need a quick fix for now as I got a show next week and haven't got time to mess about with it!

[nicklouse]

http://www.theminifo...ug-issue/page-2
 

Bobby, maybe this might help give you a better picture?
 

 
The hollow M20 bolt is screwed and loctited in to the Gearbox, theoretically never to be removed again, then a stock Sump Plug is fitted in to the hollow bo
 
lt.
 
Then, every time you change the oil, instead of taking some of the Gearbox Case away with the removal of the Plug, it's steel on steel, so dosen't bugger up.

I like that but not the steel bigger bolt/plug. Make it brass and you are onto a winner.

[Spider]

 

to see how tight access is, try and get a socket on the sump plug while it's attached to a 12" extension bar. Then imagine trying to get drill bit and drill square.
 

Is it worth getting a tapping sump plug from minispares? Been reading up on them and not sure if it's the best idea! I just need a quick fix for now as I got a show next week and haven't got time to mess about with it!

 

 

GW is right that access is tight, however the guys that have fitted up that repair insert of mine in situ, remove the tie bar. It's not going to make it dead easy, but does help.

[alex-95]

 

http://www.theminifo...ug-issue/page-2
 

Bobby, maybe this might help give you a better picture?
 

 
The hollow M20 bolt is screwed and loctited in to the Gearbox, theoretically never to be removed again, then a stock Sump Plug is fitted in to the hollow bo
 
lt.
 
Then, every time you change the oil, instead of taking some of the Gearbox Case away with the removal of the Plug, it's steel on steel, so dosen't bugger up.

I like that but not the steel bigger bolt/plug. Make it brass and you are onto a winner.

 

Why would brass be better? wouldn't it be better to have it steel so it's less likely to strip or wear?

[nicklouse]

Nope. Not when you have magnets in the area.

A steel plug could get magnetised. And hold stuff on it rather than only on the sump plug.