28 replies to this topic

[WMU 211G]

Something like 1.75 million Mk1s were built between '59 and '67 (including the variants like vans, woodies, pick ups etc) and I'd imagine a vast number of them were modified / souped up in period so I don't see any problem with going down that same route fifty years later. It's your car and it doesn't really matter what anyone else thinks, and as has been said you can easily put it back to standard spec if the need arises.

 

Best of luck whatever you decide to do!

Edited by WMU 211G, 28 September 2015 - 04:08 PM.

[mk1leg]

at the end of the day its your mini but modding it will loose value where as an orignal there fetching near 10K

[mab01uk]

For reference photo above shows parts needed to run the magic wand set up with the remote diff casing as was fitted on Mk2 and Mk3 basic 850 Mini saloon /Van /Pickup.
eg. when a 4 synchro box is used on a mk1 while retaining a magic wand direct change.
Remember also the 4 synchro magic wand gearlever is different, ie. has the keyway slot in the ball at the top not side.

2A3467 Bush
2A3390 Spring
22A1832 Seat / Locating foot
88G553 Selector shaft
22A1717 Cover
22A1382 Gearlever 1968-75 (Later type wand with slot at the top of ball)

3 synchro type (both have slot at the side)
22A91 GEAR LEVER, straight 1959-61.
88G232 GEAR LEVER, cranked 1961-68

Diagram:
http://www.somerford...age=page&id=151

Adaptor plate:

[timmy850]

Or you can use the 850 style direct shift on a 4 sync gearbox. That way it'll come through the same hole in the floor.

[mab01uk]

Here are a couple of my 'in period' modified Mk1's.......

 

My First 1965 Mk1 Mini in 1974:-

http://www.theminifo...1-mini-in-1974/

Edited by mab01uk, 28 September 2015 - 09:49 PM.

[Dowson]

Zeemax body kit and 13 x 7's!!

[mini1976]

If I buy the car, how hard are suspension components to get hold of for the hydrolastic suspension and are there things that wear and need replacing over time that i should look out for? I have had dry suspension mini's before but never a hydrolastic one.

If its hard to get parts for the hydro suspension, do people convert them to dry suspension?

[mab01uk]

 

Hydrolastic Displacers

Minmail have developed a way of putting a new hose on hydrolastic units . We offer (when available) refurbed used units that have been pressure tested,checked and repainted with new gaiter and a new hose .  These are done on an exchange basis . For a guide as to what might be suitable for re-hosing , see download below. We also have used units from time to time that we pressure test and sell as they are. £50 surcharge on old unit till returned £132 including vat.

(scroll down in link below for download)

http://www.minimail.co.uk/parts/

 

 

Edited by mab01uk, 30 September 2015 - 06:06 AM.

[mab01uk]

How to below:-

Suspension - Converting from wet to dry (not really advised for valuable historic Mini's unless no choice)

http://www.calverst...._wet_to_dry.htm

[mini1976]

So what tends to go on the displacers so I know what to look for to see if they might need changing in the near future?

[mab01uk]

So what tends to go on the displacers so I know what to look for to see if they might need changing in the near future?

 

Where the flexible hoses enter the displacers, rust and corrosion can sometimes cause the pipe union connection to fail or leak. Minimail and others have found ways of re-hosing and repairing the swaged connection into the displacer unit with threaded pipe fittings or clamps, etc as long as the corrosion is not too bad. The displacers are fairly robust steel and rubber components and only occasionally fail or leak internally. Many millions were made so good used spares are still fairly widely available or suitable for refurbishment.

 

Some useful details on hydroastic repairs also to be found here (scroll down)

http://members.tripo...erica/id63.html

Edited by mab01uk, 30 September 2015 - 11:50 AM.

[rally1380]

Best bit of advice is do what you want to it but make sure it is just bolt on modifications that can be removed and swapped back if you so wish.  So seats can easily be swapped back, and even engine/gearboxes are simple enough to swap back if you see fit.  Brakes - again, just a bolt on mod that can be unbolted if you want.

 

I think these early cars have heaps of character and is a shame to loose any of that.  Just for Issigonis' sake don't deseam it!!!!!

 

Why do you want to fit a 1275 by the way?  From time spent in NZ, i seem to remember a real lack of any sort of motorway system (or advanced road system for that matter!) so speeds on the roads were fairly low (in our camper anyway!).....but i suppose a nice bit of power could be a bit more fun on the back country gravel tracks!!!!

[mini1976]

Best bit of advice is do what you want to it but make sure it is just bolt on modifications that can be removed and swapped back if you so wish.  So seats can easily be swapped back, and even engine/gearboxes are simple enough to swap back if you see fit.  Brakes - again, just a bolt on mod that can be unbolted if you want.

 

I think these early cars have heaps of character and is a shame to loose any of that.  Just for Issigonis' sake don't deseam it!!!!!

 

Why do you want to fit a 1275 by the way?  From time spent in NZ, i seem to remember a real lack of any sort of motorway system (or advanced road system for that matter!) so speeds on the roads were fairly low (in our camper anyway!).....but i suppose a nice bit of power could be a bit more fun on the back country gravel tracks!!!!

There might not be any motorways but the speed limit is still 60MPH and there are some very steep hills here in NZ. Also its nice to feel the car will go when you put your foot down rather than needing to slowly build up speed.

[spiguy]

To echo much of what has already been said, do what you want to it. When you buy a mini it is to enjoy it, unless you are a collector. People have modified their minis since the very instant they were first available to buy, why should that stop now? If it was me, I would try to go down the cooper route - ie try to make it more like a mk1 cooper. That would reduce any potential drop in value. Like most minis though, the biggest factor influencing buyers is always body condition, so unless you really are thinking of going 13's and a body kit I can't see your mods having much impact on value.

 

Cooper S disc brakes would be an 'appropriate' mod and work very very well, so there is one example straight away of something you can do which is appropriate to the car's era but makes it more useable.