22 replies to this topic

[Lt-SilverDragon]

Didn't manage to get engine out today as I forgot my oil drain tray but got most things undone and removed.

But have a couple of questions, can I remove the engine with the rad still mounted to the engine ok? How many engine mounts are there and best way to unbolt/remove? I've removed the clips around the pot joints, do I just unbolt top or bottom balljoint and pull the driveshaft out of potjoint?

[rally1380]

Didn't manage to get engine out today as I forgot my oil drain tray but got most things undone and removed.

But have a couple of questions, can I remove the engine with the rad still mounted to the engine ok? How many engine mounts are there and best way to unbolt/remove? I've removed the clips around the pot joints, do I just unbolt top or bottom balljoint and pull the driveshaft out of potjoint?

 

Take rad out before trying to remove engine.....i'm not sure why you wouldn't to be honest as it is easy to get out and frees up space.

 

You don't really need to drain the oil as if you are keeping the inner pot joint housing in the diff housing the oil will stay put.....but warm oil is easier to drain.

 

Undo the pot joint clips, remove either top or bottom ball joint and that will allow the inner and outer sections of the inner pot joint to come apart.....just lifting the engine out can do this also, but might be easier to spend a few minutes doing it this way than get stuck later on.

 

Engine mounts - one at the clutch/flywheel end, one under the radiator (that you've removed because you've now realised it's in the way!), then the top tie bar and if fitted a bottom one also (one nut/bolt each end - careful not to snap any of these)

 

You can undo all of these as the engine will sit very happily due to the shape of the subframe.

 

Hope this helps

[Lt-SilverDragon]

By tie bar do you mean the engine steady? If so I've got both removed, have removed my solenoid, have pulled the speedo drive out from the interior, also removed the gear selector stuff and alternator and anything else I can see that might snag on engine when getting lifted out and my engine crane is there now.

 

I posted another message on the previous page Rally1380, I'm gonna strip engine down and look at the internals and rebuild engine to a decent standard (as high as I and the local machine shops can achieve) Does the gearbox hold all the oil, so I wouldn't need to drain it even if I'm stripping it down? I've just put brand new oil in it so would be good if I can use that during the first wee run until oil change due to rebuild is needed or is this false economy?

[rally1380]

By tie bar do you mean the engine steady? If so I've got both removed, have removed my solenoid, have pulled the speedo drive out from the interior, also removed the gear selector stuff and alternator and anything else I can see that might snag on engine when getting lifted out and my engine crane is there now.

 

I posted another message on the previous page Rally1380, I'm gonna strip engine down and look at the internals and rebuild engine to a decent standard (as high as I and the local machine shops can achieve) Does the gearbox hold all the oil, so I wouldn't need to drain it even if I'm stripping it down? I've just put brand new oil in it so would be good if I can use that during the first wee run until oil change due to rebuild is needed or is this false economy?

 

Gearbox does hold all the oil, but you have to remove the transfer case in order to split the gearbox/block.....so all the oil will fall out!

 

I realise it is new oil, but even a very small bit of metal floating around a brand new engine will cause issues, so for the sake of £20's worth of oil, why risk it?  You could drain the oil, strain it as best you can to remove any 'bits' but i wouldn't risk it.

 

As for the other questions regarding measuring etc.....remove engine, split from gearbox, turn upside down and remove main bearing caps.....have a gander at their visual appearance, then worry about measuring.  If they look badly worn (they probably won't) then you can get all techy.  The wear on the bearing shells will give you a good idea of what is up - if anything.

 

As for mounting an A series on a engine stand - home brew bracketry is the order of the day.  I mount mine using the alternator bracket holes and the dizzy clamp hole (I think)....certainly mount it on the front of the engine as that way you can access the flywheel end aswell as the timing chain end.

Edited by rally1380, 06 October 2015 - 08:54 PM.

[Lt-SilverDragon]

Grand, thank you so much. I know many of these question will appear to be stupid but I like to over prepare so I know everything I'm gonna face, I have stripped an A series engine before which is how I ended up with my 1330 block because I bought a metro unit as a drop in engine for my clubman estate however when I took the head off it was full of water and pitted to hell so it got a rebore but time/money/life got in the way and that block is still sitting on the shelf waiting 8 years later. It was destined to have a k1200 head bolted on but I couldn't afford to at the time and now I can afford to I've sold on all the bits so maybe a supercharged 1330 would be nice, I've also got a 1.4 k series engine that I removed from a 214 with complete wiring loom and everything plus the bits to make a custom subframe waiting to go into something lol.

 

Anyway thanks for the help, for the sake of 20 quid I'm not going to risk it and will have a look at how to mount the engine on my stand. Looking forward to seeing the inside of this engine, even if it is all worn to hell as I've enjoyed doing the work I've been doing it so far (mostly).

[Lt-SilverDragon]

Alright engine is out, and partially stripped. Didn't have the right size socket to get the bottom pulley off but engine is off of gearbox. A few issues so far lol, flywheel bolt wasn't exactly tight, one of the teeth on the diff is broken. The flywheel has a chunk missing from the bit you screw into to release the flywheel.

 

 

 

 

I was thinking that I'd use the 1330 engine A+ engine the now and that would mean I could get a fresh rebore of this A series when I have the money. Since both the boxes are rod change I can use the better box. Are the internals interchangeable between the A and A+? 

[carbon]

I would put a replacement flywheel at the top of your shopping list. And a new crown-wheel and pinion, this allows you to choose optimum gearing.

 

Would also be looking for any collateral damage in the gearbox.

[Lt-SilverDragon]

I rotated the gears and checked all the other teeth on the rest of the gearing and everything else is intact but that's all I've done so far. I'm gonna grab my other gearbox tomorrow and check that out and see what the condition is like with that one.

 

Where should I buy a flywheel? Can't see a standard weight one on minspares and the lightened ones are out of stock.

 

Minisport lightened one (Cheaper then a standard one on minisport) but I don't trust minisport for stuff like this.

 

 

Med one (too light for a road mini? and would I need special clutch?) Assembled unit?

Edited by Lt-SilverDragon, 09 October 2015 - 07:13 PM.