18 replies to this topic

[fenghuang]

I can't find any reference in Haynes to torque settings for the (radiator end) engine mount.
The too bolts that fix the mount to the subframe.
The two long bolts that fix the mount to the gearbox.

Both are 5/16 UNF.

I can find reference to that size being 25Nm elsewhere on the car.
Does that sound about right?

[Cooperman]

Just do them up firmly. Not many people use a torque wrench on anything other than the inside of the engine.

I've even changed cylinder head gaskets and not used a torque wrench when it was an emergency, like on a rally, and never had any problems.

It's just a bit of common sense and mechanical aptitude.

[nicklouse]

as uncle says it is not critical, but saying that after a time you get to know how tight something is when you are doing it often.

first time around it can seem strange.

hings to consider. if you find a torque value for like for like then it will be correct, when i say like for like. same materials and same grade bolt. if you have different materials then the "softer" one is the one you must follow (steel bolts Alloy casing. but in this case the thread is often different.

here is an interesting Doc. showing some torque settings.

note for a 5/16 unf (5/16-24) there are two values depending on the bolt material (grade)

http://www.imperials...orqueCharts.pdf

[Icey]

As has been said, you don't really need to hit a specific torque for these kind of bolts.

 

However, one way to avoid mistakes is to use the correct sized tool (fnaar!). Don't go at everything with your 1/2" drive ratchet, if it's a smaller bolt use a smaller tool. It's partly why standard spanners are different lengths.

[fenghuang]

Thanks for the advice

I figured something as important as engine mounts would have recommended setting, but obviously not.

Then it comes to over torquing, I'm not sure I'd want to rely on size of tool as a reliable guide. One of the jobs I've just done is fit a new thermost: i forget what the shank of the bolt is, but IIRC, the head is a 1/2", and that's at the largest 1/4 socket I have in a good quality set that covers both 3/8 and 1/4. The torque is tiny and I'm confident the thread could easily be stripped with a 1/4" ratchet. It may be a decent rule of thumb for nuts and bolts, but I'm not sure about castings.

[Fast Ivan]

Engine LH mounting:

Mounting to subframe - nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Nm

Mounting to engine - bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Nm

Engine RH mounting:

Mounting to flywheel housing cover - bolts . . . . . . . 18 Nm

Mounting to subframe - nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Nm

[fenghuang]

Thanks.
Where did you find those?

[gazza82]

Thermostat housing: 8 lbf/ft ... as you said fenghuang, tiny and below most common torque wrenches.

Edited by gazza82, 14 October 2015 - 02:40 PM.

[1984mini25]

It's hard enough trying to poke the bolts though the engine mount and the subframe, then getting the washers and nuts on and spannered up, without the extra hassle of a torque wrench.

 

Plus some are only possible to torque up properly if everything it properly disassembled. Take for instance a clutch change with the engine still in the car. How on earth are you eve going to get a torque wrench on the lower wok bolts with half a subframe in the way.

[hhhh]

Tighten until it strips, then back off a quarter turn.

[Mini Manannán]

I think 'nipped up' is the technical term.

[Fast Ivan]

Thanks.
Where did you find those?

the manual

[fenghuang]

Which manual? Rover workshop manual?
It's not in Haynes (old version or new version).

[Cooperman]

To be blunt, just tighten the b****y bolts up and don't worry about it. That's what the vast majority of Mini builders and restorers do. It is so simple.

The only bolts & nuts I ever torque accurately are the mains, big ends and cylinder head ones. The rest I just tighten by hand, including the flywheel bolt.

[1984mini25]

The torque is tiny and I'm confident the thread could easily be stripped with a 1/4" ratchet...

 

Either your really strong (or ham fisted) or the bolts strip that easily they clearly aren't suitable .