It probably is in your Haynes, but as "other 5/16 unf or unc fasteners". Nothing wrong with using a torque wrench if you're not familiar with the task. Especially if poor acces means you can't pull squarely on your spanner.

Engine Mount Torque Settings
#16
Posted 15 October 2015 - 12:43 PM
#17
Posted 15 October 2015 - 01:29 PM
Either your really strong (or ham fisted) or the bolts strip that easily they clearly aren't suitable .
I have the stregth of Jon Pall Sigmarsson, and the dexerity of Gustav Faberge. Unfortunately my hands aren't calibrated in lbs ft or NM.m
#18
Posted 15 October 2015 - 04:59 PM
Use the 1/4" socket, keep your fingers as close to the ratchet head as poss and only pull with two or three fingers (max) rather than wrapping your fist around the ratchet handle ..
.. or buy a cheap 5ft/lb & up 3/8" torque wrench ...
#19
Posted 15 October 2015 - 05:57 PM
You are quite right to want to use the correct torque for fixings. It's good, standard engineering practice. I'm a bit surprised that others don't support use of torque settings.I have the stregth of Jon Pall Sigmarsson, and the dexerity of Gustav Faberge. Unfortunately my hands aren't calibrated in lbs ft or NM.mEither your really strong (or ham fisted) or the bolts strip that easily they clearly aren't suitable .
Never mind , the Rover manual quotes torques as follows
Engine LH mounting:
Mounting to subframe nuts 25Nm
Mounting to engine bolts 25Nm
Engine RH mounting
Mounting to flywheel housing bolts 18Nm
Mounting to subframe nuts 25Nm
The bolts are inserted from through the mounting and then the subframe so that the nuts are fiteed on the underside of the subframe and then it is quite easy to get a torque wrench onto the nut to apply the correct torque to the fixings.
Good luck with the rebuild and well done for insisting on doing the job properly

Edited by A-Cell, 15 October 2015 - 07:14 PM.
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