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Failed Mot Emissions Way To High . Help Please .


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#16 sonikk4

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 11:00 AM

After personally watching these characters at work replacing the exhaust on my wife's old Polo never ever again. The retard could not understand removing four small bolts that held the hangars on would enable him to remove said exhaust without using a massive pry bar damaging the heat shield.

The manage could not understand why I was upset. This was in Peteborough the one opposite Matalan.

Oh and to add to this when I bought my latest car the damn thing had been in the hands of these idiots again. New pads fitted all round and pre mot. Well the pads were new nothing wrong with that but the rear discs were very badly damaged IE rusty as hell and should have been replaced. To say they did not work well was an understatement, what was even worse they passed the MOT. Oh and they snagged one of the active dampers saying it was leaking?? Bone bloody dry, nothing wrong with it at all. I think they were sniffing for more work.

#17 jaydee

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 11:34 AM

Just set the carb to 3.5 CO% at idle around 900 rpm.

If then car struggles to not run correctly and smooth then fix the problem, probably just needs servicing.

Running rich at 11 CO % is not healty for the engine.



#18 1984mini25

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 05:26 PM

Kwik fitters are not mechanics are they, I took a car there 'once', it failed on everything they had in stock, failed on tyres within the legal tread depth, took it to my normal place and it passed for two more years.

 

Nope, they are fitters on less than minimum wage with sales based targets to make up the difference. Why else do you think they always have sales on tyres, brakes etc.



#19 007xico

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 05:58 PM

So, the problems don't stop.

New garage and they installed the new carb and after being tuned, no problem on the MOT but the car fails for another 3 things. Not the same ones as kwikfit but wondering how they test cars, if they fail for different things.

This time was ball joint dust covers, front indicator and the brakes were sticking.
First two are being sorted and the brakes ( apparently needs a new pedal spring). They told me their suppliers didn't stock those, I suggested that I would get one online.

Does anyone knows which one for a 1989 Mayfair with servo brakes?
Many thanks.

#20 David128

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 08:16 PM

only pedal spring is in pedal box just grease it and work it in, 



#21 minidaves

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 08:21 PM

pedal return on a servo car is from the servo itself, so lube everything up first and see what happens after a spray of wd



#22 007xico

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 11:10 AM

Just been to the mechanic and they only have the brake left to be sorted.

 

They don't know whats wrong with it, the brake pedal stays down when pressed, only comes back up if pulled .

They also mentioned , when they were doing the MOT , there was a bang when they pressed the brake , so was when stopped working.

 

First we thought that the spring would be the problem but isn't the spring on the clutch only ?



#23 David128

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 12:51 PM

check under the dash follow the brake pedal up you should see a bar that the brake pedal pivots on lubricate then follow push rod up and lube around the clevis pin. I have no idea what the bang could be..



#24 David128

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Posted 10 November 2015 - 01:12 PM

Found a link regarding servo the return spring is in the servo.

 

 http://www.theminifo...-not-returning/

 

I haven't been able to find any info regardings ource for the spring. It doesn't appear in any servo repair items that I have looked at



#25 007xico

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 12:13 PM

Picked the car up today but it's not right . Driving back the car stutters and cuts out, when cold and when worm still stutters.

 

Took it back to the mechanic and they agreed it wasn't right .

 

After a while the mechanic noticed that the float bowl was leaking around the sides.

Note that they fitted a new carb (i got from eBay) and and also , only noticed now that the new floating bowl doesn't have a overflow.

 

I got this carb :

"Hello, here for sale is an su hs4 (1.1/2") carburetor from a classic Mini 1000, its been taken apart well cleaned and painted with silver heat resistant paint and rebuilt again, new parts are float chamber top gasket, a air filter elbow to carb body gasket, and a carb flange to manifold gasket.it also come with throttle cable clamp, & a new choke cable clamps,  the needle code (adh),   Sorry we`ve not come across the spec i.d tag for the carburettor  also the carburetor will need setting up once it`s on your classic Mini"

 

Obviously they kept the car and they probably will charge me more money (already paid £370).



#26 carbon

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 06:01 PM

There should be an overflow on HS4 carb float bowl, on earlier ones this is a small hole drilled under the brass pipe where the fuel feed connects. Normally covered up by a small alloy sheet pressing with dimple to let fuel out.

 

If you don't have one fitted already would suggest putting in-line fuel filter just before the carb. A cheap clear plastic one works just fine, you can see when they are getting mucky and then replace.



#27 1984mini25

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 07:14 PM

 

Note that they fitted a new carb (i got from eBay) and and also....

 

I got this carb :

"Hello, here for sale is an su hs4 (1.1/2") carburetor from a classic Mini 1000, its been taken apart well cleaned and painted with silver heat resistant paint and rebuilt again, new parts are float chamber top gasket, a air filter elbow to carb body gasket, and a carb flange to manifold gasket.it also come with throttle cable clamp, & a new choke cable clamps,  the needle code (adh),   Sorry we`ve not come across the spec i.d tag for the carburettor  also the carburetor will need setting up once it`s on your classic Mini"

 

That is far from a 'rebuilt' carb, that's a used carb that's been clean, tarted up with some paint and fitted with new gaskets.

 

A properly rebuilt carb would have new spindle bushes (witch need reaming) new throttle disk, new linkages, springs, jet, float valve etc AND new gaskets.



#28 007xico

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 07:17 PM

There should be an overflow on HS4 carb float bowl, on earlier ones this is a small hole drilled under the brass pipe where the fuel feed connects. Normally covered up by a small alloy sheet pressing with dimple to let fuel out.
 
If you don't have one fitted already would suggest putting in-line fuel filter just before the carb. A cheap clear plastic one works just fine, you can see when they are getting mucky and then replace.


There Is already one in-line filter.

I believe the mechanic kept the needle that came with the refurb carb, he should take the old needle and fit on the new carb, if is good obviously??? As the needle that came with the refurb carb is different specs.

Also after searching on the forum, the problem with the floating bowl leaking, might be down to the seals inside or needle valve.

The problem is they don't seem to know where the problem is and time it's money.

#29 1984mini25

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 07:25 PM


I believe the mechanic kept the needle that came with the refurb carb, he should take the old needle and fit on the new carb, if is good obviously??? As the needle that came with the refurb carb is different specs.

 

Swapping needles from one carb to the other is pretty pointless, as the needle wears to each jet. What you ideally need is a new jet and the fuel set up properly on a rolling road a needle fitted to suit.






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