18 replies to this topic

[crn1969]

Hi am wondering if I should replace clutch whilst I've got engine out? How long do they last ?mines done 50k .also this will be my first time doing a clutch any tips?what to look out for.also I read a couple of things about balancing.will I have to do this of I only replace certain parts or replace whole assembly.on a budget so only want to do what is prudent don't want to change bits for the sake of it.seemed to be working okay before taking car off the road a few years ago. Any advice welcome.

[crn1969]

Sorry that topic should say verto clutch damp predictive text on my phone ha ha.

[myredmini]

Sorry that topic should say verto clutch damp predictive text on my phone ha ha.

[Italianjob]

If you have the money to do it then do it, I did it whilst it was in the car, the hardest bit was getting the clutch cover off next to the subframe, use a decent puller and replace the primary seal behind the flywheel and the jobs a gooden!

[cal844]

Replace the clutch, primary gear oil seal, and water pump too!

[crn1969]

Okay that's sort of what I was planning but then read some stuff about balancing and then wondered if it is a job I can do at home after all? What does balancing involve.

[Ethel]

You'd give the bits to a machine shop that can do dynamic balancing. You could get away with it, especially if you can reuse the pressure plate.

[GraemeC]

if you are only replacing the driven plate then I wouldn't bother balancing anything, especially on a road car.  Just make sure it all goes back together in the same orientation/alignment that it came apart.

[Cooperman]

If you are intending to use more than around 6200 rpm regularly then a full dynamic balance is a good idea. Below that it's not really necessary.

Edited by Cooperman, 01 February 2016 - 12:14 PM.

[crn1969]

Okay thanks guys I'm going to dismantle it next weekend.if it seems in good condition .will probably clean it up and put it back as is.after changing oil pump as somebody suggested in earlier post.anything else I should do whilst it's in bits?

[Cooperman]

Just fit a new driven plate and it'll be fine. If you want to change the oil pump the complete transfer gear casing will need to come off which is a more involved job. It is worth changing the 'red' primary gear seal whilst the flywheel is off and don't forget you'll need a good flywheel puller to remove it - they can be an absolute b****r to get off and I had one which took 2 weeks to remove on a 1997 MPI.

To balance it you would have to remove and completely strip the engine after taking it off the gearbox - a major re-build in fact. You might want to check and replace as necessary the big-end and main bearing shells and the crankshaft thrust bearings. Set the crankshaft end float to between 0.002" and 0.005".

[crn1969]

have now changed oil pump,red oil seal,new transfer case gasket ,new clutc h friction plate,am now at the point wher I want to finish this and put bell housing cover back on ,however I have a question I have put new clutch plat between pressure plate and flywheel and lined it up as best I can with naked eye on a bench nipped up bolts between p/plate and flywheel and slid the whole assembly on to crankshaft.so now the inner ring of the clutch plate has slid onto the primary gear and the keyed locking washer in the hub of pressure plate all lines up,all good so far have torqued up these bolts and made sure I put the p/plate the same orientation with regards to fly wheel as it came off (basically drew a line across the whole assembly with apermanent marker before disassembly)the possible problem I have is now its all back together if I spin the flywheel and look closely at the edge of the flywheel(teeth) as it turns it seems to ever so slightlybe out of centre ie the clearance between the edge of flywheel and bell housing differs by a very small amount whilst turning almost as if its not centralised? is this possible and if so what can I do about it.i thought if the primary gear is holding clutch plate central and the flywheel bolt and tapered hub is holding the pressure plate central where can this be coming from? is there sufficient play in the pr/plate bolts to fly wheel for this to have come from.also wondered if it may have always been like this but didn't notice when I took it off? it doesn't deviate a lot possibly 1 mm but is noticeable when you look closely? any ideas?

[Dusky]

Please note that if you change the pressure plate on a verto clutch you will need to balance it, even under 6.2k rpm as the imbalance is too big

[MRA]

Did you lap the flywheel back on to the crank tail ?

 

Are there an lumps and bumps on the crank tail or in the flywheel hub ?

[crn1969]

No haven't changed pressure plate .just replaced clutch plate.no haven't lapped anything and inside boss is good condition and have torqued up flywheel bolt to required value and seems to have gone back together as was?not sure what's causing this?