18 replies to this topic

[MRA]

No haven't changed pressure plate .just replaced clutch plate.no haven't lapped anything and inside boss is good condition and have torqued up flywheel bolt to required value and seems to have gone back together as was?not sure what's causing this?

 

A common reason would be fretting causing small area's to weld due to high frequency vibration, these high spots may not be so obvious, but lapping the flywheel on to the crank tail helps to avoid them as the high spots a lapped away and you get more surface contact between the flywheel centre boss and the crank tail.

 

 

Or you haven't fitted it correctly on the dowels some how ?

Edited by MRA, 05 March 2016 - 08:18 PM.

[Blatherskite]

... and don't forget you'll need a good flywheel puller to remove it - they can be an absolute b****r to get off and I had one which took 2 weeks to remove on a 1997 MPI.

Embarrassongly, I spent 2 months last summer struggling with a SPi flywheel - heat, ever-tighter puller, hammer, nothing worked until I got a puller from Guessworks of this forum. Then off in a jiffy.

[crn1969]

Okay thanks fellas with regard to lapping the flywheel to crank is it as simple as putting grinding paste on crank and then working flywheel back and forth ..I've only lapped valves before?

Edited by crn1969, 07 March 2016 - 08:18 AM.

[MRA]

Okay thanks fellas with regard to lapping the flywheel to crank is it as simple as putting grinding paste on crank and then working flywheel back and forth ..I've only lapped valves before?

 

Same principle, work on a 90 degree rotation (45 one way to 45 the other) then turn it 120 and do the same again.... 6 to 9 times is the method I use, you have to make sure there are NO high spots, if there are then the crank tail and or flywheel will need to be lightly ground, this is a specialist operation as it requires very highly accurate machinery to get the correct surface finish and positional accuracy.