ball joint
Started by
davexdavexdave
, Aug 20 2006 12:48 PM
12 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 20 August 2006 - 12:48 PM
i can not seperate my ball joint to replace the tie rod bushes. i cant get the tool in between the ball joint and the metal bit (no idea what its called) enough for the pin to push tje screw out???
#2
Posted 20 August 2006 - 12:55 PM
not sure what type of ball joint splitter your using, but id suggest you use the v shaped that you hit with a very big lump hammer, this will seperate the ball joint, you will need to push the lower link arm down and move the hub so that the bottom ball joint comes out of teh hub, you can then change the bushes, a how to guide will be done when i get home as i need to do the same job
#3
Posted 20 August 2006 - 01:29 PM
If you are just replacing the tie bar bushes you don't need to separate the ball joint.
Don’t even need to jack the car up and remove any wheels.
The way I’ve done them is to put the steering on full lock to gain access to the 1/2" nut and bolt on the side you intend on doing, remove the bolt/nut /washers, then undo the bigger nut at the front of the sub frame and pull the tie bar off the car. Refitting is the reverse of removal
Also if you jack the car up, as the suspension drops just enough to stop the 1/2" bolt from being fully removed. And you can’t put the bolt back in the other way to solve this, as if the nut ever did come undone on the move the bolt WILL fall out. It should go bolt pointing downwards with the nut on the bottom to prevent this.
Don’t even need to jack the car up and remove any wheels.
The way I’ve done them is to put the steering on full lock to gain access to the 1/2" nut and bolt on the side you intend on doing, remove the bolt/nut /washers, then undo the bigger nut at the front of the sub frame and pull the tie bar off the car. Refitting is the reverse of removal
Also if you jack the car up, as the suspension drops just enough to stop the 1/2" bolt from being fully removed. And you can’t put the bolt back in the other way to solve this, as if the nut ever did come undone on the move the bolt WILL fall out. It should go bolt pointing downwards with the nut on the bottom to prevent this.
Edited by 1984mini25, 20 August 2006 - 01:33 PM.
#4
Posted 20 August 2006 - 10:04 PM
i shall try this method soon
#5
Posted 20 August 2006 - 10:23 PM
it the ball joint here i cant remove
Attached Files
#6
Posted 20 August 2006 - 10:27 PM
If it's just the tie bar bushes you are changing you don't even need to touch that.
#7
Posted 21 August 2006 - 05:23 PM
yeah i realise that now but i need to change a cv boot soon so i still need to know how to remove it.
#8
Posted 21 August 2006 - 06:25 PM
As Cowboy says, keep wedging the splitter in between the tie bar and baljoint with a BFH (Big F Hammer).
#9
Posted 21 August 2006 - 06:31 PM
ok can i smack it too hard???
#10
Posted 22 August 2006 - 09:19 AM
I've just had the hub off - I split the tapers with a screw type splitter and it worked VERY well. Just make sure that the threads are protected on the swivels (use the nut). The fork type splitters are good but I always worry about damaging the rubber gaitors. So long as the rubbers are not in the way, no you can't hit it too hard - the weakest link should be the taper so that should give before anything else.. Please note the use of the word "should"! Start hitting at a reasonable effort and build up to a mighty smite - I've been known to resort to a 4lb lump hammer swung with two hands on other vehicles They all split eventually...
To be fair, I think the driveshaft on my mini had been off recently, as the split pin looked new and it all came apart far too easily!
I'm going to do the tie rod bushes as well because they look a bit manky - is it worth going for the poly bushes, or just stick with the rubber ones?
JC
To be fair, I think the driveshaft on my mini had been off recently, as the split pin looked new and it all came apart far too easily!
I'm going to do the tie rod bushes as well because they look a bit manky - is it worth going for the poly bushes, or just stick with the rubber ones?
JC
#11
Posted 22 August 2006 - 11:50 AM
I'm going to do the tie rod bushes as well because they look a bit manky - is it worth going for the poly bushes, or just stick with the rubber ones?
JC
I would say the uprated ones do feel better. Minispares sell a kit which is a combo of soft and hard - shame they don't have any in stock right now.
On the subjet of splitters, I have the tower type on not the Y and not the preffered scissor type. Always works a treet and it takes away that "am I hitting it too hard?" niggle in the back of your mind.
Matt
#12
Posted 23 August 2006 - 10:39 PM
I've ordered the standard bushes (plus track rod ends and bump stops*) - reference the earlier advice about taking the tie rod off with the suspension loaded. Can this be achieved by jacking under the suspension to simulate weight on wheels? I've got the car nicely raised on axle stands and don't want to waste time dropping it down again (lazy, I know).
JC
*Yeah, I twisted it and came off in my hand... Really! Mr Haynes strikes again; "reach under the wheelarch and unscrew the bump stop" or words to that effect. Yeah right.
JC
*Yeah, I twisted it and came off in my hand... Really! Mr Haynes strikes again; "reach under the wheelarch and unscrew the bump stop" or words to that effect. Yeah right.
#13
Posted 24 August 2006 - 12:37 PM
exactly waht i did. twisted and it broke off
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users