23 replies to this topic

[MRA]

Thanks for your help guys, am now seriously considering the 11.2" disk 6 pot alloy calliper upgrade route. Just one thing though, do you think I would have any clearance issues with my standard 10 steel wheels or would they be just fine?

 

Funny man, yes you would have clearance issues they won't fit, but will fit under 13"+ wheels

[bikenutmart]

They wont fit with 10" wheels. Mart.

[Cooperman]

On the Oct. 1964 Mini 850 I'm currently restoring I intend to use the original single-leading-shoe brakes. I had considered fitting the 998 Cooper 7" disc brakes if only to reduce the need for frequent adjustment, but I don't have any of those and I do have all the drum brake parts. I want to stick with the 3.5" x 10" wheels and 145/80 x 10 tyres.

Part of the fun and enjoyment of an early 850 is the retro driving experience, if only to remind us how much auto-technology has moved on in over 50 years.

In fact the drum brakes are not as bad as some claim due to the moderate top speed and the poor acceleration. After hard braking from, say, 60 mph, it takes so long to regain that top speed that the brakes have cooled down a bit.

For competition we used to fit harder linings (Mintex M20 or Ferodo VG95 material) and that worked fine. It was not until the Cooper 'S' came along with twice the power of the 850 that the bigger and better 7.5" disc brakes became necessary. To slow from 95 mph generated a lot of heart and the ability to get back to that speed in a very short time dictated better brakes.

In fact, when I got my first 850 Mini in 1963 I sold my 1950 Ford 3.6 litre V8 Pilot which did almost 90 mph and had rod-actuated rear brakes and hydraulic front drums. You certainly had to anticipate the need to reduce speed in good time  . The 850 brakes seemed marvellous back then.

[MMM1965]

Cooperman, as a matter of interest is the oct64 mini you're restoring hydrolastic? My aug64 Morris is, going by the chassis no it is only a couple of numbers after the first quoted hydro mini built. It also has twin leading shoe brakes fitted.

[Cooperman]

Both my '64 cars should be hydro but the, 'S' was restored & prepared for rallies with dry suspension and the 850 will also be dry. I have an aversion to hydro after having to retire from a major rally in 1967 when the hydro failed and I still bear a grudge about it. Dry is easier to work with and it doesn't seem to effect the value much, if at all.

[mk3 Cooper S]

 

Prediction and reading the road ahead seem to be skills lost by most :-(

 

I think it has to a certain amount, possibly the pace of life etc.... however I know what I would rather have, that is brakes I can rely on, for any time I may need them, some t*** pulls out in front of you one day no amount of forward thinking skills are going to help you.

 

I had a car pull across in front of me I was already slowing down as my "spidey" senses told me something was wrong, however drum brakes would never have saved my Mini, my 6 pot alloy calipers and 11.2" discs did though and with out any drama.

 

Generally people running this type of uprated set up have competition pads fitted and any "out of the blue braking" can be a disappointment - well this is my experience anyway.

[MRA]

 

 

Prediction and reading the road ahead seem to be skills lost by most :-(

 

I think it has to a certain amount, possibly the pace of life etc.... however I know what I would rather have, that is brakes I can rely on, for any time I may need them, some t*** pulls out in front of you one day no amount of forward thinking skills are going to help you.

 

I had a car pull across in front of me I was already slowing down as my "spidey" senses told me something was wrong, however drum brakes would never have saved my Mini, my 6 pot alloy calipers and 11.2" discs did though and with out any drama.

 

PS, I only fit decent brands none of these "new" brands your local motor factors tells you are OEM when in fact they are not !

Generally people running this type of uprated set up have competition pads fitted and any "out of the blue braking" can be a disappointment - well this is my experience anyway.

 

 

I remember a friend telling me how good his DS11 pads were..... until an emergency stop didn't really work as planned, they needed heat to work, that is why I go "large" on my brakes and use a fairly standard pad, works very well never had any drama doing it this way.

 

PS, that is why I only fit named brands, not what the local motor factors tells you is OEM when in reality they are not !

Edited by MRA, 03 April 2016 - 11:20 PM.

[timmy850]

My car has been upgraded to the twin leading cylinders. It brakes well enough to lock up the front wheels in the dry when the drums are adjusted properly... 

 

You do have to adjust the drums every so often to keep them at their best, but you also have to check the oil, grease the suspension, check the tyres etc so it becomes part of the routine check. If your car has been swapped to twin cylinder fronts, make sure that the rear cylinders are the correct size, as you don't want the rear brakes to lock up first!

 

http://www.minispare...rt.aspx?1~9~105

[Cooperman]

I do believe that the efficiency of modern brakes has caused a generation of drivers who don't look very far ahead when driving quickly, being able to rely on modern brakes and, especially tyres, to take off speed quickly.

Back in the 50's & 60's the brakes of virtually all cars were nowhere as good as they are now and tyres were either cross-plies or early radials. We simply used to look further down the road and try to allow for 'happenings'.

When you drive a classic car you are driving in this 'retro' way, or at least you should be. Drum brakes are fine so long as you drive was we did back then which is, one might presume, why you bought a 60's classic in the first place.