Up Into Fourth
Posted 22 April 2016 - 04:47 PM
You will probably find the timing marks on a Mini pulley and Midget (in-line) pulley are in different places to line up with the two markers ..
I have both pulleys in the garage but don't remember how the marks are aligned to the woodruff key slot. On the Midget pulley it's a simple nick in the edge as it doesn't have the harmonic balance ring ..
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 22 April 2016 - 05:21 PM
When I put on the single notch I thought about making more for timing marks but like everything I thought about it too much then decided I wouldn't bother. Now I wish I'd done it! Could still take it off as I fitted a front mounted radiator so access isn't a problem and put on some marks. Probably won't though!
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 22 April 2016 - 07:47 PM
You will probably find the timing marks on a Mini pulley and Midget (in-line) pulley are in different places to line up with the two markers ..
I have both pulleys in the garage but don't remember how the marks are aligned to the woodruff key slot. On the Midget pulley it's a simple nick in the edge as it doesn't have the harmonic balance ring ..
I have been out and done a few things tonight, got oil pressure whilst cranking her over so that's good! Also noticed that there is a notch already on the pulley but when No1 is at TDC then this mark will be about the bottom somewhere. My own tab which I stuck to the timing cover lines up with my own notch I made which is roughly where timing cover marks are at. I'm wondering now if this is a Midget pulley that I have and you say gazza that this has no harmonic balance ring could this be a serious problem?
Been out and checked as I was convincing myself there was a huge problem, however the bottom pulley has a damper built into it. It still has a timing notch that is down about the bottom somewhere when No1 is TDC.
Edited by skoughi, 22 April 2016 - 08:45 PM.
Up Into Fourth
Posted 22 April 2016 - 10:53 PM
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 23 April 2016 - 12:25 PM
however I have electronic points fitted to my dizzy so how can I set static timing with this set up? Sorry to hi-jack your thread!
If you have one of the more common electronic ignitions that uses a Hall Effect sensor in the module, these can still be static timed. In your case, guess at a timing position. Turn the crank until the pointer is perhaps 8 to 10mm before your timing mark. (by the way, never back up to get the timing positioned where you want. Always turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation to take out all the timing chain play and component wear). Once the pointer and pulley are where you want them, connect a test lamp between coil (-) and earth. Turn the ignition switch to the run (not start) position so the coil is powered. Loosen the dizzy clamp and turn the dizzy housing COUNTERCLOCKWISE so the test lamp turns OFF and the rotor is pointed to the plug #1 terminal on the dizzy cap. Keep turning the dizzy housing counterclockwise an additional 10 or so degrees. Now SLOWLY turn the dizzy housing CLOCKWISE until the test lamp just flickers ON. Stop turning and lock the distributor down. Your static timing will now be set a bit before TDC. Start the engine, bring it to temperature, and set your dynamic timing.
Tried this but can't get my test lamp to light up whilst connected to the coil-. Have got power on the coil+ and have continuity on both red and black wires between coil and dizzy also on engine block to earth and across + and - on the coil. The dizzy has been at Aldon getting modified and I got them to fit the Acuspark kit and check it. I turned the dizzy quite a bit but at no point will the test lamp light up. I've done or not done something obvious but inexperience is stopping me from spotting it!
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 23 April 2016 - 01:49 PM
With Ignitor modules there is the original type which supports zero speed firing and the later type(s) that do not. I assumed AccuSpark was nearly identical in function to Ignitor 1 which can be static timed. Perhaps that was naive on my part.
If you have not been able to set the timing yet, try the following as a test.
To test the module, remove the distributor from the block. Leave the module's red and black wires connected as normal. Run an earth wire from the dizzy housing to the engine block. With the test light connected between coil (-) and earth, and the ignition switch in the run position, rapidly spin the dizzy shaft by hand. If the light flickers on and off, the module is working.
If you cannot static time with a test light your only option will be to eyeball time the module followed by an immediate dynamic timing. Offer the dizzy cap up to the dizzy housing and make a paint mark on the housing in the apparent location of the cap terminal for cylinder #1. Now remove the dizzy cap. With the dizzy in the block, turn the dizzy housing counterclockwise so the rotor is to well to the right of the paint mark. Now turn the dizzy housing slowly clockwise stopping when the left edge of the rotor is just even with the paint mark. That will set a bit of advance timing but you won't know exactly how much. Try starting the engine. If it doesn't catch, have an assistant crank while you turn the dizzy housing forward and back until the engine catches. As soon as it starts, use your timing light to set the dynamic timing.
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 23 April 2016 - 02:07 PM
I dug out the original coil that was fitted to her when I got her, the one I've been trying is a 2nd hand Lucas gold, fitted the old coil and I can now get the test lamp to light up. Turned the dizzy back and forth a few times and got the test lamp to go on and off no problem. So maybe there's an issue with the Lucas coil me think, re checked across the - and + terminals and can't seem to get continuity.
Edited by skoughi, 23 April 2016 - 02:34 PM.
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
