30 replies to this topic

[rokemester]

No!! That’s the way it came from the shop that did a refresh on the motor. Hmmmm, now what??

[rokemester]

Ha! Clearly joking ?

[cal844]

I usually just split the pot joints and cover the bearings and cage with a technicians glove. Done this more times than I can count and never had an issue.

I usually cover the pot joint gaitor with the glove, then duct tape the glove to the shaft.

Also I always make sure there is plenty of grease in the bearings when stood idle.
I usually clean out the pot and refill with fresh cv grease once every 5 'splits' just to be sure.

Hope this helps


Oh and yes using the above method means that I can do a full engine change on my own in a day (if all is well)

[rokemester]

Well the right driver side half shaft needs to snug up just like the passenger side ? just need to find a way to apply the necessary amount of side force. Many suggestions on this forum, but no solid gold approach as far I can tell. Any other ideas??

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[cal844]

Take the shaft out the hub, secure the engine in place and bang the shaft in

[Rorf]

Always better to install the pot joint onto the diff when the engine is out of the car. Problems with it not going in easily could be a faulty C clip or if they are new side covers the bush might not have been reamed to the right diameter.

 

There are so many tricks of the trade to ensure an easy build and they are all available here but it requires a bit of searching on this forum.

Edited by Rorf, 13 July 2019 - 04:54 PM.

[nicklouse]

No!! That’s the way it came from the shop that did a refresh on the motor. Hmmmm, now what??

Then they don’t really know what they are doing. They even say “engine side” on the smooth side. Original ones that is. Copies saved money by not having it on.

[nicklouse]

Ha! Clearly joking

You or me? Me nope.

[rokemester]

No!! That’s the way it came from the shop that did a refresh on the motor. Hmmmm, now what??

Then they don’t really know what they are doing. They even say “engine side” on the smooth side. Original ones that is. Copies saved money by not having it on.

You have an eagle eye! It’s going to a royal pain to refit the right way around. We are air/oil cooled oriented. This radiator stuff is perplexing!

[rokemester]

THANK YOU Nicklouse! Your eagle eye is a saver!! No excuses the engine builder just needed to read the fine print!!

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[alex-95]

Well the right driver side half shaft needs to snug up just like the passenger side just need to find a way to apply the necessary amount of side force. Many suggestions on this forum, but no solid gold approach as far I can tell. Any other ideas??

Are the pot joints new? The new ones are made oversize to the original so may not be fitting into the cover. As said above the c clips aren't made correctly so can make it so you can't get the pot joint in. I would remove the c clip, which is a bit fiddly but doable and then try fitting the pot joint in, if it slides in easily then you know the c lip is at fault if it doesn't you'll know the diff covers too small/pot joint too big.

[rokemester]

Yes, the pots are new. Interesting comment! We did remove the C clip and tried to adjust it to be smaller and fit tighter to the spline. We als tried to fit the pot without the C clip but it would not go. The left pot went on fine.

[rokemester]

We will pull the pot off and closely inspect the shaft splines. We think it got past the circlip Ok. We suspect some other interference.

[rokemester]

Success! We were able to seat the right driver side half-shaft properly. I’ll update with a picture later.

[rokemester]

We moved the brake caliper and the wheel carriage assembly out of the way to gain better access to the half shaft. We confirmed that the splines were not fouled and the circlip was OK. We carefully lined up the pot and banged it in with a “persuader” and block of wood.