33 replies to this topic

[Spider]

As an alternative to a short throw shifter, how about a sequential shifter?

 

Dunno if this guy is on this forum or if this has been posted here before

 

 

Nice bit of engineering for sure.

[nicklouse]

I seem to remember putting some rubber hose over the shifter to reduce the rattle.

[MontpellierVanMan]

Where did you put the hose and which - of the many - particular rattle did it solve ?

Edited by MontpellierVanMan, 05 June 2016 - 02:24 PM.

[MontpellierVanMan]

Here are a few ideas for anyone tempted to have a go at Moke's suggested selector-box overhaul.

 

The EN16T 1/2" bar is available for £1 per inch from http://www.highpeaksteels.com/ , at least, and probably another million places in the UK.

 

 

It comes at a nominal 12.68mm diameter, the wear on my shafts was at 12.49mm on the long and 12.55 on the short.

 

 

The front bush had worn right through the bronze lining and well into the steel backing.

 

 

A simple stepped drift is enough to remove and then replace the bushes : mine ended up in sequence as 12.7mm diameter x 12mm long, 15mm diameter x 16mm long, 15.5mm diameter x 30mm long

 

One bush was a tad slack in the housing so I fitted both with Loctite.

 

 

 

Once cut to length, the holes can be drilled through the original shaft (5.6mm seems to be the closed size) in a pillar drill using a drill-vice to clamp old and new together.

 

 

Then by knocking a scroll-pin through both, the alignment is guaranteed and the bar can be reversed for the same operation at the other end.

 

 

 

I ended up making the short-one out of the un-worn end of the old long-one, as seen - since that just happens  to leave me enough EN16T to do a second one.

 

 

 

 

 

I haven't used these parts on the car yet and will update once the rest is finished and I can report on the rattle, but the operational "feel" is delicious ............

[Spider]

Love yr work!

[tiger99]

Yes. nice work but the price for the EN16T seems a bit high! I suppose it is due to the small quantity required. At that price I would have been inclined to use plain bright mild steel. There is not a particular strength requirement here, unless a gorilla is changing gears.

 

Actually a piece of thickwall CDS tube would lighten the mechanism by a useful amount. Fill with sawdust and plug both ends to discourage resonance, so it will be quieter. Just a thought...

[MontpellierVanMan]

By not buying one single red, blue or gold anodised 6061 part for the car, I managed to afford the steel - and yellow paint.

 

 

BL's choice of the alloy was dictated by wear-characteristics not strength - Brinell 248-302 for EN16T, and 130 for Mild Steel.; ask my hacksaw.

 

Tube ? Not a good choice for driving scroll pins through. Weight ? Mass is Good when on the receiving end of vibration.

 

The only supplier I found was Somerford who list the 22G1930 shaft for £25.09 but admit it's an MS copy.

 

(PS to be perfectly honest, tiger99, the warehouse-staff were so amazed by my 93 year-old Dad when he walked up to the counter to buy the stuff that they gave him twice the amount we needed - and charged him just £5.)

[tiger99]

You are correct to avoid anodised ali with its limited fatigue life. I do like the paint job on your engine!

 

I have thought for a long time about the coupling between the rod and gearbox, which has to be sloppy to work, and therefore contributes to the rattling. If there is sufficient clearance, I wonder if a small Hook joint (UJ), bored to be a tight push fit, and tightly pinned, might be better. Something like these:

 

http://www.bearingbo...Bearing--3776-c

 

You can get them cheaper, and very much more so with plain bearings, but I would think that the needle rollers would be best.

 

One of my Minis did about 180k miles on one gearchange mechanism, with no noticeable problems, which may well justify the use of wear-resistant steel. I always thought it was just plain mild steel, due to cost. Actually most manufacturers would have used mild steel, so maybe BL were not quite as penny-pinching as we thought!

 

I hope your Dad has many more happy years procuring bargains!

[Spider]

What? No Bling? How on Earth will it ever run!

 

Tiger, you do need a higher grade of Steel than Mild Steel for these rods. As MontpellierVanMan has pointed out, MS wouldn't last too wel where the Pins go through and also you'd find where it runs on through the bushes.

[tiger99]

Would silver steel be ok? It is a bit cheaper and has much the same hardness, as well as being readily available in short lengths.

[Spider]

Silver Steel should be OK.

 

Mild Steels generally are around the 100 to 135 Hb in hardness, Silver steel is around the 260 Hb and EN16T is in the range 245 to 300 Hb, these latter two being further can be further hardened by heat treatment where as MS is cannot.

[tiger99]

Thanks for that. If I ever need to make my own it will be silver steel. The model engineering community (no time for that sort of activity myself but I admire their work) know how to harden it relatively easily, if needed, so the process is feasible at home.

[MiniMike87]

Great info! currently rebuilding mine, was searching for a thread like this!

I have replaced the bushes in mine now and think I need a new rod too ! lol



Also saw the mention of the Gaitor rod seal that is present on the moke's and managed to find this quite useful site that sells one :) 

http://www.m-parts.c...y&path=36_48_79

 

As you can see below though and already mentioned a track rod end rubber also works perfectly!
http://minispares.co...|Back to search
 

 

Also would this hard enough wearing to use? or is there something better, I don't really understand the grades of steel

https://www.metals4u....7mm)-dia/p2528

 

Edited by MiniMike87, 14 July 2016 - 12:12 PM.

[Tommyboy12]

Im having my housing refurbished at the moment and the company has literally just rang me to say the casting is cracked between the main housing and the webbing of the rear mount. Anyone had any experience of repairing this part or is it a case of binning the casting and finding another?

 

Also does anyone know what the outer diameter of the housing is for a rubber boot over the rod?

Edited by Tommyboy12, 30 June 2016 - 11:45 AM.

[InnoCOOPER]

The Innocenti has a slightly different rod Change. It to has a boot gaiter. I am going to try MG TF gear linkage gaiters, similar size. The Innocenti has internal rod bushes but these are made from plastic.  IMG_2281.JPG   75.76K   11 downloads  IMG_2282.PNG   465.87K   10 downloads