13 replies to this topic

[Landrover7297]

I have a 1994 mini looking to do the suspension complete. Looking for a more sporty ride. The car came with a power flex poly kit the PO did not install. Also came with revolite 5Jx12 +19 wheels that I'll be putting 165/60-12 tyres on. Any help would be great.

I am new to mini's not to motoring just took me awhile to get here👍

Cheers from Japan

George

[tiger99]

First, ensure that everything is in good order and deal with any wear in ball joints, rear radius arms, etc.

Forget the poly bushes. They only encourage tie rod breakage. Despite the imagination of some who swear by them, the only place that poly works well, and safely, is to stiffen the rear subframe mounts and the body end if the upper and lower engine steadies. The tie rods MUST have at least one half of the bush rubber, and the lower arms need some compliance.

Start with a full set of solid mounts for the front subframe, which will make more improvement than any other single mod and is not particularly expensive. You will need toeboard reinforcing plates around the mounts. Maybe you will not want to do any more once you feel the difference.

Next, a SMALL amount of negative camber front and rear, and check that the rear toe is correct.

Only if it is still not good enough do you need lowering devices and adjustable dampers.

The original Minis with solid mounted front subframe, as designed, were regarded in their day as having very sporty handling in standard form.

[carbon]

+1 for Tiger's comments.

 

For a small amount of negative camber on the front the +1.5 degree arms from Minispares are worth fitting. Makes a real difference.

 

For road use go for the neg camber arms with standard rubber bush, avoid rose joints.

[Cooperman]

The rear suspension settings are more important than the front.
Set rear to zero to 0.5 degrees negative and toe-in to 1mm to 2mm.
Ideal for the front is 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative camber with 3 to 3.5 degrees caster and 1mm toe-out.
Standard ride height is best
This is with 10" or 22" wheels.

[Broomer]

The rear suspension settings are more important than the front.
Set rear to zero to 0.5 degrees negative and toe-in to 1mm to 2mm.
Ideal for the front is 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative camber with 3 to 3.5 degrees caster and 1mm toe-out.
Standard ride height is best
This is with 10" or 22" wheels.

Although the 22" wheels do effect the minis handling.

[Landrover7297]

The rear suspension settings are more important than the front.
Set rear to zero to 0.5 degrees negative and toe-in to 1mm to 2mm.
Ideal for the front is 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative camber with 3 to 3.5 degrees caster and 1mm toe-out.
Standard ride height is best
This is with 10" or 22" wheels.

Although the 22" wheels do effect the minis handling.

Although "Double Duces" do fill the wheel arch

[Landrover7297]

+1 for Tiger's comments.
 
For a small amount of negative camber on the front the +1.5 degree arms from Minispares are worth fitting. Makes a real difference.
 
For road use go for the neg camber arms with standard rubber bush, avoid rose joints.

  

The rear suspension settings are more important than the front.
Set rear to zero to 0.5 degrees negative and toe-in to 1mm to 2mm.
Ideal for the front is 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative camber with 3 to 3.5 degrees caster and 1mm toe-out.
Standard ride height is best
This is with 10" or 22" wheels.

I have three sets of wheels two are 10" one is 12"

Thank you I will start the ordering.

Are there any special tools I will require to purchase? I LOVE BUYING TOOL⚙

[cal844]

Cone compressor

Big socket(I use a 34mm) for the CV joint nut

[carbon]

Cone compressor

Big socket(I use a 34mm) for the CV joint nut

& ball joint splitter for fitting neg camber bottom arms.

[Readers14]

First, ensure that everything is in good order and deal with any wear in ball joints, rear radius arms, etc.
Forget the poly bushes. They only encourage tie rod breakage. Despite the imagination of some who swear by them, the only place that poly works well, and safely, is to stiffen the rear subframe mounts and the body end if the upper and lower engine steadies. The tie rods MUST have at least one half of the bush rubber, and the lower arms need some compliance.
Start with a full set of solid mounts for the front subframe, which will make more improvement than any other single mod and is not particularly expensive. You will need toeboard reinforcing plates around the mounts. Maybe you will not want to do any more once you feel the difference.
Next, a SMALL amount of negative camber front and rear, and check that the rear toe is correct.
Only if it is still not good enough do you need lowering devices and adjustable dampers.
The original Minis with solid mounted front subframe, as designed, were regarded in their day as having very sporty handling in standard form.

Very useful information.
I have plans to upgrade the suspension when I take mine off the road this winter.
I'm going to try a negative camber kit with adjustable front tie rods first.
The previous owner fitted adjustable Spax dampers up front & new standard dampers on the rear. It feels all wrong to me.

Actually, that's a bit harsh! It's ok but could be better.

What's everybody's thoughts on Hilos? What's the benefits?
Is it worth replacing the cones while I'm doing camber?

[tiger99]

You only need HiLos if you need to run at a non-standard ride height, which does not really improve the handling at all for road use.The cones should be renewed if you have any doubt about them (they can go hard and obviously also reduce ride height). Always renew the cheapest wearing parts, the knuckles, if you have it apart.

[carbon]

+1 for Tiger's comments.

 

And I would not bother with adjustable front tie rods for road use.

[Readers14]

+1 for Tiger's comments.
 
And I would not bother with adjustable front tie rods for road use.

With the adjustable front tie rods, you can reset the castor after setting the camber.
Or am I talking rubbish?

[carbon]

Yes, you can adjust the castor with adjustable tie-rods, but you really don't need them for a road car.

 

Fitting the neg camber front arms using standard tie-rods works just fine in my experience.

 

Just replace the rubber bushes at the end of your tie-bar if the old ones show any sign of distortion, and for road car would recommend keeping standard rubber bushes.