54 replies to this topic

[hotwheels]

found the problem, somehow a whole appeared in the sidewall of the intake and was sucking in oil from the sidewall of where the push rods live, too thin of a wall to weld, was afraid to make the hole even bigger, i tried my luck with some epoxy and so far so good, plus the machine shop installed and the stem seals as well, no more smoke!!  still scratching my head how the whole even got there in the first place....

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[hotwheels]

couple more things and she's done!

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[Spider]

Usually it's from someone going a little far with their porting job!

 

A common 'cure' for this is to fit a sleeve down through the push rod hole.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

 

 

On road engines I would always fit seals on the exhaust valves. Any oil getting on the exhaust valve seats will burn and make a real mess of them. Some cheaper oils can also burn on the lower stem, leaving a wonderful deposit of ash on them,,,,,
 

Are there any high quality stem seals that would be good for exhaust valves, I would prefer to have some on, to be honest.
Also anyone know of a way of fitting them with the head still on? I saw an episode of wheeler dealers that used compressed air to keep the valves in position, which I thought was quite good.

 

 

I've found these quite good;-

 

http://minispares.co...|Back to search

 

but these aren't too bad either;-

 

http://minispares.co...|Back to search

 

There are a couple of ways it can be done without lifting the head, but you'll need to remove the rockers and then temporarily fit some spacers back in and tighten down the head (not necessary to torque it though) again before starting. You can get air line fittings, to hold the valves closed, but these are not fool proof. If the collets are stuck to the valve stem (as often the case), there's a very good possibility you'll lift the valve off it's seat trying to remove them and likewise when refitting the spring and top keeper, you need to be very careful you don't move the valve , which is easy to catch on the keeper. Also, be sure the piston in the cylinder you are working on is at BDC before connecting the air.

 

Another way, that I prefer, is to get some clean small rope and feed that in through the spark plug hole, about a metre will be well enough, keep the end tied off then put the car in to 4th gear and gently roll it until the rope is compressed against the head (and valves), handbrake on and go for it.

 

Just got those decent ones. head off, seals on, just need to pop head back on now. Cheers

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

found the problem, somehow a whole appeared in the sidewall of the intake and was sucking in oil from the sidewall of where the push rods live, too thin of a wall to weld, was afraid to make the hole even bigger, i tried my luck with some epoxy and so far so good, plus the machine shop installed and the stem seals as well, no more smoke!!  still scratching my head how the whole even got there in the first place....

Cant see that epoxy lasting to be honest

[hotwheels]

We were thinking the same thing about sleeving it with old guides, then drilling the inside bigger, but i did not have a push rod on hand at the time. I didnt think the ends would fit throw the sleeve, also i no the jb weld may not last, because from the push rod hole is where the oil is going to leak from behind the jb weld and work its way in till it falls off which will b bad.

[carbon]

For sleeving the pushrod holes you really need to use thin wall steel tubing with a close interference fit.

 

Most valve guides are made from cast iron, this is much too brittle for a thin wall sleeve.

[tiger99]

The rope trick is very old, and really does work. Just make sure the cylinder is really on its compression stroke, or the rope will try to escape under one or other of the valves.

But if it all goes wrong, taking the head off is only a minor inconvenience.

[hotwheels]

ok now i have a new problem, after temp gets past 140 degrees and warms up, sounds like the valves/rockers are making a bunch of noise on medium acceleration, i had adjusted the lash, once at 12thou and then i recently adjusted them to 13thou. i think i may off but not completely sure, idk what else it could be, here is a video from tonight.

 

 

286 kent cam double valve springs

mini sport 1.5 roller rockers

[Spider]

Had to tell much from your vid when heard through my crappy old laptop!  But is there a sticky valve or walking valve guide in there?  

[Carlos W]

 

 i have not put any load on it yet

 

The advice I give when I build an engine for someone else is to NOT run it at all UNTIL it can get load on it RIGHT away. Not even run it for 1 minute.

 

With my own cars, I position them such that even before I get my hand off the key, I'm driving it right away, I doubt that they'd have 1/2 a second of unloaded run time.

 

Without load very very early on, the bores glaze very easily and then a hone is needed again to remove the glazing.

 

Once glazed, they will always smoke and never break in.

 

I'll stress, that this is the advice I give for engines I've built.

 

This is all great, but in the middle of my housing estate I just can't see how I can do it without someone reporting me to the police or something.  

[Spider]

 

 

 i have not put any load on it yet

 

The advice I give when I build an engine for someone else is to NOT run it at all UNTIL it can get load on it RIGHT away. Not even run it for 1 minute.

 

With my own cars, I position them such that even before I get my hand off the key, I'm driving it right away, I doubt that they'd have 1/2 a second of unloaded run time.

 

Without load very very early on, the bores glaze very easily and then a hone is needed again to remove the glazing.

 

Once glazed, they will always smoke and never break in.

 

I'll stress, that this is the advice I give for engines I've built.

 

This is all great, but in the middle of my housing estate I just can't see how I can do it without someone reporting me to the police or something.  

 

 

Sorry Carlos, I know I'm not only slow but also thick.

 

I'm not sure I understand what you're getting at here.

[Carlos W]

 

 

 

 i have not put any load on it yet

 

The advice I give when I build an engine for someone else is to NOT run it at all UNTIL it can get load on it RIGHT away. Not even run it for 1 minute.

 

With my own cars, I position them such that even before I get my hand off the key, I'm driving it right away, I doubt that they'd have 1/2 a second of unloaded run time.

 

Without load very very early on, the bores glaze very easily and then a hone is needed again to remove the glazing.

 

Once glazed, they will always smoke and never break in.

 

I'll stress, that this is the advice I give for engines I've built.

 

This is all great, but in the middle of my housing estate I just can't see how I can do it without someone reporting me to the police or something.  

 

 

Sorry Carlos, I know I'm not only slow but also thick.

 

I'm not sure I understand what you're getting at here.

 

You'e not slow or thick, and I take much pleasure in reading a lot of what you write.

 

How can I put my car under load at first start up? I can't drive it around the housing estate where I live as the vehicle wont be legal.

[hotwheels]

Are all valve guides generally the same length? Just curious because last time i was at the machine shop, they told me that the bronze guides i had in were okay, (these are guides they put in) and said the cast iron guides i brought them where longer than the bronze ones they fitted.

[Spider]

 

 

 

 

 i have not put any load on it yet

 

The advice I give when I build an engine for someone else is to NOT run it at all UNTIL it can get load on it RIGHT away. Not even run it for 1 minute.

 

With my own cars, I position them such that even before I get my hand off the key, I'm driving it right away, I doubt that they'd have 1/2 a second of unloaded run time.

 

Without load very very early on, the bores glaze very easily and then a hone is needed again to remove the glazing.

 

Once glazed, they will always smoke and never break in.

 

I'll stress, that this is the advice I give for engines I've built.

 

This is all great, but in the middle of my housing estate I just can't see how I can do it without someone reporting me to the police or something.  

 

 

Sorry Carlos, I know I'm not only slow but also thick.

 

I'm not sure I understand what you're getting at here.

 

You'e not slow or thick, and I take much pleasure in reading a lot of what you write.

 

How can I put my car under load at first start up? I can't drive it around the housing estate where I live as the vehicle wont be legal.

 

 

Ah OK, gotya now

 

Carlos, yes, I really am thick and slow mate

 

Well, the only suggestion I can make is to have your car road legal. Way I see it (and it's sometimes too simple) but what's the point of having a running engine with no legal car to use it in?

 

I'll acknowledge that it's not always possible but is more often than not.

 

When I was involved in motor sports, we'd get the engines on a dyno of some sort, whether it be an engine or chassis dyno, but something to load them up.

 

OK, let's put this another way.

 

So, let's start the engine and (I guess) let it idle and it glazes up. Then what?

 

That it will glaze up is not always a certainty (if left to Idle), yes, but getting load on it ASAP greatly reduces the chance of that to about zero.