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Cleaning Rusty Threads


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#16 tiger99

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Posted 31 August 2016 - 04:15 PM

A die would be cheaper. But give them a good wire brushing first, and plenty of penetrating oil or even a rust remover. Try screwing a castellated nut on backwards, or make a tool which will do the same, ie a nut with a hacksaw cut or two in it. I think these will clean up reasonably well for a modest outlay.

#17 tiger99

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Posted 31 August 2016 - 04:55 PM

If you can't get that to screw on, hacksaw the nut completely through one flat so it is split. It will then go on. Screw it down to good clean thread, close it with Mole grips, not too tight, and unscrew it. Rust should be gone.

I learned these sorts of tricks out of sheer desperation when I was a lot younger.

#18 Mini 360

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Posted 31 August 2016 - 06:38 PM

 

Think they are about £10 new, I would just replace them.

 a bit more

 

http://www.minispare...h/classic/front shock.aspx|Back to search

 

Ah, I bought the lowered ones at £23 the pair by the looks of it.  



#19 Spider

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Posted 31 August 2016 - 08:33 PM

Thanks for all your prompt replies.

 

It is the pin that the top of the shock slides on.

 

I've added a couple of pics to show the problem.

 

I think the bolt is welded so I would imagine I'd need to replace the whole mount as I don't have the equipment to reweld.

 

 

DSCF0007_zps8ztxm8f4.jpg

 

DSCF0008_zpsmkakpjk0.jpg

 

 

The 'Pin' over which you slide the shocker eye?

 

3/8" UNF.



#20 BritishRacingGreen

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 07:54 AM

Just invest in a decent imperial tap and die set, you'll have plenty of use for it.

 

As already said there isn't too much wrong with that, a quick spin of a 3/8 UNF die and it'll be serviceable.



#21 MikeRotherham

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 12:58 PM

Sorted it.
 
I left the pin coated in Deox Gel over night.
 
Then a combination of wire brushing, picking crud out with a pin and working a new nut backwards and forwards did the trick.
 
If it hadn't I was going to try the cutting nut with a hacksaw trick Tiger99

I wish there was something you could buy like a cap that you could stick on the end of any exposed thread to reduce chance of corrosion.

I suppose I could coat the end with clear underseal like Dynax UC
 
Thanks for all your help

Edited by MikeRotherham, 01 September 2016 - 01:03 PM.


#22 Swift_General

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 02:27 PM

You can by a cap, kit car builders use them to pass their IVA tests. Look on one of the kit car supply websites.

#23 tiger99

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 03:22 PM

Or if you can't get a suitable cap, coat it heavily with something easily removable like silicone rubber.

#24 JBW

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 03:39 PM

You can by a cap, kit car builders use them to pass their IVA tests. Look on one of the kit car supply websites.

 

http://www.carbuilde...=grid&orderBy=0

 

Excellent people to deal with.



#25 Broomer

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 03:48 PM

Couldn't you just cut that last bit off?
Obviously ensuring you still get some thread protrusion.

#26 tiger99

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 04:31 PM

No, because the protruding bit will just corrode again. It needs to be reliably sealed in some way and/or covered with a rust preventative such as grease.

#27 jamesy

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Posted 01 November 2016 - 09:26 PM

How would be the best way to clean the paint ou the rear subframe mounts? reluctant to use a tap for fear of cross threading it, ( and i dont own taps anyway... ) 



#28 tiger99

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Posted 02 November 2016 - 01:15 PM

Use a 5/16" UNF bolt with a hacksaw cut to emulate a very mild tap.

#29 Ethel

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Posted 02 November 2016 - 03:11 PM

 A quick wrap of amalgam tape, or screw another nut on the end.






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