29 replies to this topic

[Shaggy33]

What about if I bodge a repair and fill the hole with sensor and liquid metal?

[Spider]

What about if I bodge a repair and fill the hole with sensor and liquid metal?

 

It needs to safely hold back circa 100 PSI and at Temps circa 120 degrees.

 

IMO, risky. It could let you down when least convenient.

 

If it were me and I had most of the pieces, I'd probably braze it back together. Engine out job of course and you'd want to pressure test it.

[Shaggy33]

Mmm, risky then. This was a filler engine whilst I wait for my new built one, guess it's destined for fleabay then....shame because it's a high spec engine but I just can't summon up the effort to put this mistake right!

[Dusky]

Liamquid metal wouldnt hold there.
Nickle rods are cheap , you could weld it yourself probably I you dont care about how neat it looks.

[tiger99]

Yes, nickel rods, as sold for repairing cast iron, could be the answer. They are not particularly cheap but you don't need many. You would need to build up the shape by adding small amounts of metal slowly, allowing to cool periodically. Then it would have to be drilled and tapped.

Oh, and that will probably be plain old arc (MMA or stick) welding. I don't know of any source of small quantities of nickel MIG wire. TIG may be possible.

I would give it a go if I was sufficiently desperate. There isn't much to lose, but if the block was really valuable I would suggest stripping it completely and taking it to a welding expert.

[Dusky]

Tig and arc is The easiest.The 99 nickle rods can Be used with tig as well.

[tiger99]

I assume you would strip of the coating before using them for TIG? Should be ok, and certainly easy to obtain in small quantities.

[Shaggy33]

Forgive me for as,omg stupid question but I assume this is a job that would only be done when engine block is completely stripped?

[Spider]

Forgive me for as,omg stupid question but I assume this is a job that would only be done when engine block is completely stripped?

 

Short (wisest) answer is yes.

[tiger99]

I agree. In real desperation it might be possible to insert a thin rod that will not melt (TIG tungsten perhaps) into the small hole in the centre to plug it, while weld metal is carefully deposited around. But as I said, in real desperation only!

 

It is in any case an engine out job, and the welding will be a million times easier if the offending part is facing upwards, which would encourage welding debris to go into the oilways. Stripping the block does not take all that long once it is on the bench.

 

Thinking more about the actual repair, it would help to get a steel fitting with the correct female thread, modify its outside to fit roughly in the hole (angle grinder or file will do), and weld that into place with the nickel rod instead of just building up metal which will need to be drilled and tapped afterwards.

 

If you have technical questions about the welding process, the MIG welding forum will be able to help. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/ and despite the name they cover all types of welding. Off topic, but an excellent place for beginners, as they have good video demonstrations.

[ACDodd]

Remove and strip the block, machine the boss down below the damage re tap. I would have though no need for welding.

Ac

[tiger99]

Is there sufficient metal for that, and is it cracked? I think we all assumed from the pictures that there was not much good metal, and everyone was focussed on rebuilding it as it was, but if there is sufficient metal remaining it could indeed be machined.

 

On the other hand, a welded repair, with some work with a die grinder and a good coat of engine paint, might be invisible.

[dyshipfakta]

Could you not plug it with some steel threaded bar then braze it in situ? Or weld if your careful.

Would then need to find somewhere else to fit a pressure sensor but that shouldn't be an issue.

Edited by dyshipfakta, 10 September 2016 - 12:54 PM.

[mini13]

well,

 

I would assume that the OP is looking for a fix without taking the engine out?

 

welding etc, you will need to get the area clean and oil free, which isnt practical withput stripping the engine and ideally getting it caustic dipped or similar.

 

"glue" there are some fantastic metal epoxys avalable devenloped for sealing things like hydralic lines in an emergancy which would be stronge enough, but I think they have an upper temp limit of around 150 deg c, not sure how hot the block gets around there...

 

if theres any thread left in the bottom, i would be tempted to plug it with a threaded plug and plenty of bearing fit or similar.

[floormanager]

Hi, I did the same thing to a MK1 Metro Turbo engine in the 1980s.  As it did not have an oil pressure gauge, I ftted a T piece and had an electric one.  Trouble was, after a while, the T piece snapped off in the block.  No problem, used a screw extractor and promptly split the block!!  I went to an otd engineering firm who stitched it back in.  I did have to strip the engine but the repair was successful and was still leak-free when I sold the car.  Somewhere, I hope there is a Metro Turbo block out there with the stitched oil pressure oilway...