18 replies to this topic

[neal]

 

It would be nice to see more engine/transmission specs on here, this would make a fantastic library for others to reference prior to spending their hard earnt cash.

 

I'll cautiously agree, though, having a 'box of parts' is one thing, but how they are put together is another matter again.

 

Absolutely agree with you there with regard to the engineering work and build quality, but a 'Box of the correct parts' is a must

[neal]

 

It would be nice to see more engine/transmission specs on here, this would make a fantastic library for others to reference prior to spending their hard earnt cash.

 

I'll cautiously agree, though, having a 'box of parts' is one thing, but how they are put together is another matter again.

 

You can always brows through the WinSU Program for a guide

 

BUT, I'd suggest not fixating too much on that peak number, to get to that 'number' you need to 'drive' up to it and seriously, how often is that 'peak number' called on or used?

 

Absolutely! Who was it that said (along the lines of and I'm probably not correct) BHP sells cars and Torque wins races??

[Cooperman]

The cam timing figures quoted by the manufacturers are just nominal and won't necessarily give best power or torque. For a road engine in a classic car it is not all that important so long as the engine runs well, but for racing where every little matters the engine needs to be set up on an engine dynamometer (not a rolling road) and the power/torque measured at different cam settings. The head, CR, ignition, etc., will all effect what the actual best cam setting is.
However, the dot-to-dot setting can be many degrees out from nominal.
For a road car most people just set to nominal and use established gas flowing and induction/exhaust systems and ignition and that gives good results.

[InnoCOOPER]

That looks about right. With that spec around 85 to 88 bhp at the flywheel should be expected.
The only strange thing is that the 266 cam in a 1275 normally gives maximum bhp at around 5500 to 5800 rpm, so maybe there is a bit more to come by some further improvements to induction, exhaust and/or ignition systems.

For Info

 

I have swapped out the original paper filters which were badly compressed in the Std Coopers twin carb Air Box which caused it to run rich.  

 

This was identified on the Dyno.  To test the air filters were taken out and ran up and which whilst unscientific unleashed another 5-7hp.

 

I have now K&N replacement filters in the original airbox and it seems to breath better and runs leaner.  

 

I have changed the needles from the Std AAP (Innocenti) to AAQ.  Just slightly richer following a similar curve.  The car runs very well now and pulls stronger throughout the rev range.

Attached Files

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