46 replies to this topic

[Xiao_Bin]

Hey All,

my Mini is very low. Although I know the cones needs replacement, I have never thought to check the actual suspension state.
While hunting for a oil leak I noticed the car is actually sitting on it's bump stops

2 questions:

is it dangerous for the driver? car moves 20Km per week max (4km go and come back to Uni for my GF)
is it dangerous for the car? it may damage something else (there are a few speed bumps on the way (exactly 6).

I cannot change it in a rush now...


thanks

[Retro_10s]

The answers are yes and yes.

Although I know the cones needs replacement, I have never thought to check the actual suspension state.

The cones ARE your suspension matey!

it wont get an MOT riding on bump stops either. and you'll get arse ache!

you'll need new cones, new knuckle joints, and probably new bump stops, and a new arse!

[Xiao_Bin]

About the cones, I know that's the suspension, I just never thought they were totally gone.

For the MOT that's not an issue, there is no MOT in Malaysia, whatever I still need to get new ones, hi-lo at the same time... damn shipping costs

[Retro_10s]

ok well, you'll also need a cone compresison tool. to get the old cones out and the new ones in.

i you're doing hi-los you definatly need to replace the knuckle joints too... prepeare for a B*stard of a job!

[Xiao_Bin]

well yeah, and to add to the fun, one tower bolt is hiding behind some aircon parts

[Guess-Works.com]

If you are replaceing with hilo's you can 'just' di it without a compression tool, but you need to remove the top arm ( which will probably prove harder anyway with all the c**p in the engine bay, so forget that idea )

[Retro_10s]

If you are replaceing with hilo's you can 'just' di it without a compression tool, but you need to remove the top arm ( which will probably prove harder anyway with all the c**p in the engine bay, so forget that idea )

This was what i was gonna do, put after swearing a bit and drinking lots of coffee whilst staring at that bloody rubber cone and top arm, I decided i'd just buy the tool, interstingly, you can still only just get the trumpet back in even with the tool fully wound up, i still had to gently tap the knuckle joint into the bottom of the trumpet with a medium sized hammer!

[Xiao_Bin]

thanks for the advices guys

I will buy a compression tool anyway, as the shipping is about twice the price of that thing
so I'll order other parts as well to make it worth.

another question, right now the mini has a lot of negative camber in front, is that normal for dead cones, or is there anything else damaged? since it was driven around quite a while since it's dead low..

[Retro_10s]

sounds about right, dead cones mean more weight being pushed to the wheels so it'll make them goin all sorts of directions.

check your tie rods for bends mate.

also, just underneath the arm the knuckle joints sit in shuold be a cross head screw holding a rebound rubber, check it's there. they often get a little mangled and the rubber section pushed off the metal plate.

usually they're black, uprated ones are yellow, so look hards... the black ones usually get hiden in grease!

[Xiao_Bin]

do you have any link/photo/whatever of that thing?
I cant find what it is exactly

[Retro_10s]

You might not need to replace them, and to be honest they wont make lods of diiference to the ride, it's just that they don't get replaced very often and so if they're knackered it's worth doing while you're there anyway.

They cost about £3 a side form minisport, 1 a side.

also you're gonna need to take them out to drop the top arm, it gives just enough room without the rebounds there to get the trumpets out and in etc.

Attached Files

•  rebound.jpg   9.03K   0 downloads

Edited by Retro_10s, 11 September 2006 - 01:31 PM.

[Xiao_Bin]

thanks, i'll get that too then

From what is said above I thought that there is no need to remove the top arm, since I'm getting the compression tool

anyway, there are also some rubber protections over the knuckle joint right? I remember mine is gone from what I saw before, will also get that if I can find it

[Retro_10s]

From what is said above I thought that there is no need to remove the top arm, since I'm getting the compression tool

Yes but to get the cone out you need to take it off the compression tool, at which point it will expand back to normal size, so to get it out, you need the top arm off unless you want to give yoursefl a hard time! the compression tool is only to allow you enough clearance to get the trumpets/hi-los in and out.

Anyway, there are also some rubber protections over the knuckle joint right? I remember mine is gone from what I saw before, will also get that if I can find it

This will come already on the knuckle joint. They'll come greased, but you'll need to pull back the rubber slightly and pack it full of grease for peace of mind. Although they grease them, they harldy put any in at all.

Through the power of microsoft paint. Here's a picture off TMF showing the rebound buffer screw. Location of this is the same on discs or drum brakes.

Attached Files

•  rebound_locate.JPG   59.09K   58 downloads

Edited by Retro_10s, 11 September 2006 - 01:55 PM.

[Xiao_Bin]

thanks, and that's a nice clean looking suspension
the top arm mounting is in the engine bay?

I think it will take me a week to change that cones

[Retro_10s]

The top arm is the silver bit.

Jeeeez you lot are gonna think i don't have a life with all these posts!!!