39 replies to this topic

[MiniGilly]

So mine leaks!! But it's not the solid one as far as I can remember. I rebuilt the engine barely a couple of thousand miles ago and it's started to leak as a run more than a drip. The bastard!

 

And I've read that the solid one is the next step especially as I could do without striping the motor apart.

 

I just want to hear from any of you who have had success fitting these (now as they seem to be available?) and by doing so from just removing the timing back plate and poking it in! And if there are any tips to be given?

 

Cheers,

Paul

[panky]

Interested in this too. The main reason I stripped my engine was because of a horrendous oil leak and I suspect it was Mr Moony, so I'd like to know before hand if I should use the solid one. I dont thing they will poke right in though without dropping the gearbox, aren't they shaped to fit into a recess in the casting?

Edit:

I stand corrected

 

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Edited by panky, 08 January 2017 - 06:33 PM.

[MiniGilly]

Yeah I know, it says it'll just push in but that begs the question of do I add any RTV to the ends or sides etc? And ultimately do they fix the leak? Hence hoping some lovely Mini guru will pop up and solve our dilemma?!!

 

But I'll get one ordered up with the timing cover and back plate gaskets.

 

Love the user name Panky! 

[panky]

It's been with me a long time

[tiger99]

I am puzzled. In the old days these seals gave very little trouble, but now they seem to be problematic. This is not the only recent case. What has changed? And surely all these seals are solid? They certainly were once upon a time, part AHU1959.

 

Are you saying that some are not? Why would the one you fitted have failed?

 

You do need a tiny blob of silicone sealant where the half moon seal meets what would be, on an inline engine, the sump gaskets, and you need to put them in right way round so the lip is trapped and can't fall out, but apart from that, how can they go wrong?

 

As I was writing another post popped up and I now see the part that you are intending to fit. But I seriously question why you would need it. Fitting a half moon seal correctly is not rocket science, and it should not be leaking. I wonder if the factory were fitting some of them backwards, so they fell out? I will leave to your imagination why one should not be left lying around in the sump! At least there is no metal involved...

 

And yes, to answer the question, you will need a blob of silicone at each end if you use one of these bodger's seals, to make good any imperfections at the ends of the sump gaskets.

 

If you can, please post some pictures of the new seal being fitted, to benefit anyone who may be in a similar position.

[tiger99]

Oh, and of course I meant falling in, not falling out, but you will have guessed that. Or maybe not, it falls out of its place but in to the sump. My brain hurts...

[panky]

It may be that the one I fitted last time was a poor quality one (cant remember where it came from) but it feels like it's hardened and lost it's ability to seal. Like I said I suspect it's the half moon as I couldn't find anything else that could have caused such a big leak,  I've have heard the occasional mention on here about the solid seals  and want to make sure I do everything possible to do it right and will act on the best advise - not like me at all

[MiniGilly]

Dare I say it but I'm more than happy with how I fitted the seal and also if I remember right I put a dab of silicon on each end but from what I can see it's started leaking at what I'll say is about 8 O'clock when looking straight at it. 

I too am surprised that I could replace it with gearbox in situ and it might work and if based on what is advertised might even fix it but I'm only doing so because I don't yet want to pull it all apart just for one leak so am willing to try for what is a days work.

 

But if anyone has done so with success please let us know about it.

 

And when I do it I'll take pictures but might be a couple of weeks off yet. 

[Dusky]

I heard they always were a bit of a 'squich them into place's fit, but recent ones are a lot too long. Think it was in a Calver article.

[Spider]

Can't say I've ever had trouble from any of them. I do use a bit of sealant (Loctite No. 3) on them. If using a Silicon type sealant, I'd express some caution as until it goes off, it tends to act as a lubricant and seals like these, can move about.

 

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While not exactly rocket science, that being a factory part for a 'fix', there would have been a Technical Bulletin for fitting it. There would have been a recommended sealant to go with it.

[MiniGilly]

Mine had plenty of time to dry before the engine was run. If I've just been unlucky I'll take that but short of gearbox off I think this is my only option.

 

If I can't find any more info to go with fitting this seal I'll prob use RTV but well said Moke as I'll make some enquiries.

 

Cheers

[Spider]

Mine had plenty of time to dry before the engine was run.

 

It doesn't need to have the engine run to make the seal move, only pressure on it. Just keep in mind, RTV (Silicon) sealants do make seals (or anything for that matter) slide and 'ooze' about much easier than if fitted dry, until they go off.

[tiger99]

I only use it on the overlap between seal and sump gasket, leaving both curved sides of the seal dry. As long as the engine is lowered carefully on to the transmission it doesn't seem to move out of place.

 

Concerning the length, they do tend to sit up slightly at both ends. If they are set to be symmetrical, lowering the engine down on them pushes the ends of the seal down, along with the sump gaskets, and will compress the half moon, making it thicker and therefore a tighter seal.

 

They assembly must be complete before the silicone or other sealant has hardened, as the sump gaskets must be free to slide on the ends of the seal so that they don't get creased or torn as everything comes into its correct place. Allowing the RTV to dry first, or using too much of it and in the wrong places, will result in almost certain leakage at the joints.

 

I just followed the documented procedure for some other car that I had with a semicircular seal meeting the sump gaskets. I think it was a Ford, but the same procedure worked well on the Mini. The sealant was Red Hermetite in those days, not RTV.

[cian]

theres an old chap on YouTube who has his own classic Mercedes workshop and he certainly knows his stuff and he uses aiviation permatex


Possibly poor quality half moon seals in circulation?

Edited by cian, 08 January 2017 - 10:26 PM.

[panky]

I'll be using good old blue Hylomar on the gaskets but not sure whether to smear a little on the half moon..