As above- at what temperature is an oil cooler needed.
I have just fitted a mechanical smiths gauge into the oil filter housing. The oil reaches 105 degrees after a spirited 20 minute drive.
I think your new gauge is out of calibration.
Posted 26 July 2017 - 10:22 AM
As above- at what temperature is an oil cooler needed.
I have just fitted a mechanical smiths gauge into the oil filter housing. The oil reaches 105 degrees after a spirited 20 minute drive.
I think your new gauge is out of calibration.
Posted 26 July 2017 - 01:59 PM
Millers Oils was established in 1887 so they are most certainly not the new boy on the block
You'll have no problem with that oil or if you want a higher performance oil their Nanodrive semi synthetic CTV oil.
The one you are using and the CTV oil is specifically blended for the Mini with it's shared gearbox design of which both these oils will protect it to GL4 spec which a normal engine oil won't.
I'm sure the VR1 oil is very good but to what spec will it protect the gearbox, with it being just an engine oil in comparison to the Millers?read what i said about Millers. yes i know them very well as they were local and customers but as a retail customer you could not buy their product till the 1990s or lets say none of the many garages i stopped off at between Huddersfield and Brighouse stocked any not even my Brighouse engine builder.
i would put the VR1 as a more modern oil but still having the zinc and phosphorous package. both seem to have a comparable ZDDP content.
I used the vr1 in my racer for 2 seasons and didnt have any issues, I do change it after every event though, good on price too the vr1, I did notice as with every other oil I have used plenty of tiny metal shards/swarf around the magnetic sump plug. But is was mainly to the hard life a dog box has..
This season I moved to another oil from good recommendations from knowledgeable people in the motor sport scene. Now the new oil isnt easy to get hold of and is nearly twice the price of the vr1, still I change after every event but with the new oil Im now using, I see very little if any metal in the oil!!!! Im hoping I have made a good choice..
Posted 26 July 2017 - 03:47 PM
Millers Oils was established in 1887 so they are most certainly not the new boy on the block
You'll have no problem with that oil or if you want a higher performance oil their Nanodrive semi synthetic CTV oil.
The one you are using and the CTV oil is specifically blended for the Mini with it's shared gearbox design of which both these oils will protect it to GL4 spec which a normal engine oil won't.
I'm sure the VR1 oil is very good but to what spec will it protect the gearbox, with it being just an engine oil in comparison to the Millers?read what i said about Millers. yes i know them very well as they were local and customers but as a retail customer you could not buy their product till the 1990s or lets say none of the many garages i stopped off at between Huddersfield and Brighouse stocked any not even my Brighouse engine builder.
i would put the VR1 as a more modern oil but still having the zinc and phosphorous package. both seem to have a comparable ZDDP content.
I used the vr1 in my racer for 2 seasons and didnt have any issues, I do change it after every event though, good on price too the vr1, I did notice as with every other oil I have used plenty of tiny metal shards/swarf around the magnetic sump plug. But is was mainly to the hard life a dog box has..
This season I moved to another oil from good recommendations from knowledgeable people in the motor sport scene. Now the new oil isnt easy to get hold of and is nearly twice the price of the vr1, still I change after every event but with the new oil Im now using, I see very little if any metal in the oil!!!! Im hoping I have made a good choice..
I'm sure you have made a good choice. Can you enlighten us or is it a "racers" secret weapon so to speak?
I just want to run the best oil without going stupidly expensive (Mini parts just keep going up in price and I've got a fair few £££'s in my engine and gearbox). I don't want to start a war on the topic, I find most people tend to find something that works for them and stick to it.
I found when I swapped to the "Motorsport Semi-Synthetic Mini CTV Oil" that the swarf on the sump plug basically disappeared also! Bonus!
I've just changed my oil (again) and Millers have just updated their "Motorsport Semi-Synthetic Mini CTV Oil" with the Queens Award Winning Nanodrive technology!
http://www.opieoils....e-oil-2017.aspx
Some great info on the Nanodrive technology.
http://eamvmotorspor...s-nanodrive-nt/
http://performancera...about-nanotech/
I think the only way we'll ever put this topic on oils to bed if we had some independent research conducted i.e. a Ball Wear Scar, psi, film strength/load carrying capability/shear resistance comparison.
Posted 26 July 2017 - 05:26 PM
Ive spoke a few times about the oil on here.
I would not recommend it on a road car though.
its 10/60 fully synthetic castrol edge super-car.
http://www.ebay.co.u...nIAAOSwPCVX44Ht
Posted 26 July 2017 - 06:06 PM
Posted 10 April 2018 - 08:58 PM
Following up on this.
I fitted a small oil cooler
I also changed to Millers CTV.
Oil temp seems to reach around 90 degrees.
Posted 10 April 2018 - 10:00 PM
As above- at what temperature is an oil cooler needed.
I have just fitted a mechanical smiths gauge into the oil filter housing. The oil reaches 105 degrees after a spirited 20 minute drive.
I think your new gauge is out of calibration.
Certainly driving hard will increase Oil temp, but on the streets, you'd really seriously have to be trying.
Even in a circa 100 HP Mini (my sons in this case) driven quite hard, the Oil Temp only rises slightly (maybe 100) above the (water) coolant temp.
Race Track is a different matter.
Again, I suggest you have your gauge checked.
Or, there's something seriously skewif in your bottom end heating the oil.
Posted 11 April 2018 - 09:22 AM
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