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Rod Change Bushes


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#31 Spider

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Posted 01 August 2017 - 11:11 PM

I've used the Knuckle Joint Boot when I've been unable to get the original boots, they do work quite OK.

 

In regards to the cover over the hole for the short shaft, I've just looked for a listing, but doesn't come up in any of my handy parts books. There was a pressed steel cover, like a miniature freeze plug, pressed in to the back of the housings, excuse the grubbiness of this pic, but you can see the cover in there;-

 

MaSqpUR.jpg



#32 AeroNotix

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Posted 01 August 2017 - 11:51 PM

So that's the Moke/Australian bracket? Looks different for sure!



#33 Spider

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 01:25 AM

So that's the Moke/Australian bracket? Looks different for sure!

 

It our Mini Bracket, the Moke had 2 different ones again from that.

 

This is the late 79 to 82 set up

 

u5e0lKj.jpg



#34 AeroNotix

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 01:48 AM

Now even that looks like it would have less roll. How did that feel?



#35 Spider

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 02:04 AM

They are actually real bad. There's 2 cotton reel mounts there (maybe a bit hard to see) quite close together and that's what's very wrong with this set up.

 

This is the first slider type I made, as fitted (excuse the dirt & mud etc);-

 

ni75HXm.jpg

 

JKMtuXH.jpg



#36 Austifiniho

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Posted 03 August 2017 - 10:34 PM

So I've fitted the knuckle joint boot which required cutting the boot and zip tieing it in place, I kept moving the gear stick and the boot would pop off, tried to get as much of the grit out of the thing as I could and grease it all up and it feels better off the car slightly.

Bit worried about the orientation I put the bottom plate of the grear selector housing on at though haha

#37 Spider

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 12:42 AM

Funny that you've had to cut the knuckle boot?

 

There is a bell shaped steel collar that's pressed in (easy to get them out) that the original boot and also the knuckle joint boot will slip over nicely.

 

6NI3J4u.jpg

 

 

excuse the grubbiness here, but you can just see the bell collar

 

YvnfqXh.jpg



#38 SolarB

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 08:53 AM

Would anyone happen to know the diameter of the gear change rod. I fancy ordering a UJ today and fitting it over the weekend but I don't have my Mini with me.



#39 Spider

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 09:16 AM

Would anyone happen to know the diameter of the gear change rod. I fancy ordering a UJ today and fitting it over the weekend but I don't have my Mini with me.

 

1/2"



#40 SolarB

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 09:27 AM

Thanks.



#41 Spider

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 09:43 AM

Thanks.

 

You'll need to trim a little off the length of the Rod, just how much depends on the UJ you end up with, otherwise the gearstick will be in the heater.


Edited by Moke Spider, 04 August 2017 - 09:44 AM.


#42 Mini Manannán

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 09:53 AM

Would anyone happen to know the diameter of the gear change rod. I fancy ordering a UJ today and fitting it over the weekend but I don't have my Mini with me.

 

It's all detailed here: http://www.theminifo...ctor/?p=3486868



#43 Austifiniho

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 11:19 AM

So my steady rod has some kind of bracketry that yours doesn't have which is why I've cut it, plus there was no collar for the boot which led to the zip ties. I'll keep an eye on the boot as I drive it and see if it stays on

https://m.imgur.com/8IpIpXK

Does anyone know if this hole is oriented right?

http://imgur.com/stFLv9s

Edited by Austifiniho, 04 August 2017 - 11:22 AM.


#44 Spider

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Posted 23 January 2022 - 05:51 PM


At the other end Professor Pete put his thinking trousers on and came up with this, you can just about make out the inset bronze bush:

 

b78G6JW.jpg

 

Which fit on the back of the 'box like so:

 

6BMGHgS.jpg

 

Ignore the old roll pin system, that's gone.  The seal is a fork seal which is designed for twisting and back and forth movement, again from simplybearings.

 

The roll pin has been replaced with a UJ and grub screw:

 

p1KjtAk.jpg

 

It's all hidden from the world by a PVC hose:

 

eornpMU.jpg

 

The insert in alloy housing is long enough so that it can be slid back from the UJ end for removal.

 

The box is only on the bench with no internals as yet but it feels fantastic with no slop at all.  It may need more mods as we go along but we'll sort that if needed.

 

 

I'll be having a look at my dripping shifter in the next few days. If it's leaking from wear, I'll be stealing yours and Prof. Pete's idea here. I had similar ideas many years back but never came up with a simple install. This I gotta say, is a brilliant method.
 



#45 Mini Manannán

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Posted 23 January 2022 - 06:38 PM

 


At the other end Professor Pete put his thinking trousers on and came up with this, you can just about make out the inset bronze bush:

b78G6JW.jpg

Which fit on the back of the 'box like so:

6BMGHgS.jpg

Ignore the old roll pin system, that's gone. The seal is a fork seal which is designed for twisting and back and forth movement, again from simplybearings.

The roll pin has been replaced with a UJ and grub screw:

p1KjtAk.jpg

It's all hidden from the world by a PVC hose:

eornpMU.jpg

The insert in alloy housing is long enough so that it can be slid back from the UJ end for removal.

The box is only on the bench with no internals as yet but it feels fantastic with no slop at all. It may need more mods as we go along but we'll sort that if needed.



I'll be having a look at my dripping shifter in the next few days. If it's leaking from wear, I'll be stealing yours and Prof. Pete's idea here. I had similar ideas many years back but never came up with a simple install. This I gotta say, is a brilliant method.

 

It's a great fix Chris, still no drippage a bazillion miles later :-)






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