27 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

 

But then you compress the exposed threads and the nut won't undo and there's no way you can hold the taper to wind it off the compressed threads.

Surely not enough to damage the thread?

 

hell yes easily.

[Dusky]

Thats why I only use the "U" style compressors now instead of the scissor ones

One of the problems with using U style is they send shock waves into the rest of the connected components, not good if the joint is especially tight and requires several hard blows with the hammer.

Why shock waves?
I use this one :http://minispares.co...|Back to search

[Northernpower]

 

 

Thats why I only use the "U" style compressors now instead of the scissor ones

One of the problems with using U style is they send shock waves into the rest of the connected components, not good if the joint is especially tight and requires several hard blows with the hammer.

Why shock waves?
I use this one :http://minispares.co...|Back to search

 

I thought you were referring to this style http://www.halfords....AyABEgLNYfD_BwE

[nicklouse]

 

 

Thats why I only use the "U" style compressors now instead of the scissor ones

One of the problems with using U style is they send shock waves into the rest of the connected components, not good if the joint is especially tight and requires several hard blows with the hammer.

Why shock waves?
I use this one :http://minispares.co...|Back to search

 

no different to a scissor type. different languages.

 

in English when describing ball joint spliters scissor refers to the action  (rocking on a pivot).

 

A U type is as NP has linked to. hateful things.

[Will16]

I've never used a ball joint splitter, just a two hammers..

[Hewlett_T]

I have 3 different types of splitters, they all work well it depends what you prefer in my opinion. If you have a lump hammer and a fork great, if you don't but have a spanner / socket set the sissor or U type works great too.

I did basically what you did on the left hand front of mine, and needle nose pliers and a spanner moved it for me. When one got stuck after sitting a while though I had to drill it out as nothing was going to undo that bolt, they are though basterds though so a slow drill and some high quality drill bits are needed for best results.

[Spider]

It sounds very much to me that the Nut (and possibly the Pin) got damaged from the Impact that would have happened when the taper released.

 

You'll do WAY more damage with a 50lb hammer than you could with a 50 tonne press. Impact and vibration can be extremely damaging, don't underestimate this.

 

 

I have both types of ball joint breakers, the scissor type that I use 95% of the time, It's a quality Sykes one that's I've had for over 25 years now. I only ever tighten it 'so far' then if it hasn't released, a tap on the back and it pops.

 

I also have a high quality U type (brand unknown) that is belted with a hammer, that one I've had for probably around 35 years and the shank of the tool is probably around 300 mm long and the U is fairly small. Easy to use and instant results, however, I don't reach for it first up as it ruins the rubbers, though in a pinch, they can be reused until replacement become available. I've also had a few shorter types of these tools and found them to be rubbish.

[AeroNotix]

Were the ball joints genuine? I've used non-genuine ball joints in the past that only lasted two "cycles". I.e. one installation and one removal until the case hardening was stripped from the bolt. The last attempt to put the nut on started stripping the threads completely.

[minimans]

The 'U' type of splitter is known as a pickle fork in the USA. I have both types of splitter in the box but generally just reach for a pair of heavy hammers on any joint where you have access to both sides as I find it causes far less damage and is quicker...........But you need a good aim and use a dead blow for success.

[fenghuang]

Thanks all, but it leaves me in some doubt.
To protect the thread and the hub:
1) Remove nut.
2) Nut in place with no stud proud of the nut
3) Nut in place with stud proud of the nut.

[tiger99]

Aeronotix, your point about cheap ball joints is correct but the thread, like all bolts, should not be "case hardened". Doesn't affect your conclusions at all, but might engender misunderstanding somewhere. But the ball end SHOULD be hardened by the appropriate process for the grade of steel used, maybe induction hardening nowadays, which is energy efficient and clean, to a shallow depth to avoid making the whole thing brittle, before final surface grind. It is quite usual to make things that way, with a hard part where the wear occurs, but we would expect that the threaded part and the taper are optimised for tensile, shear and fatigue strength.

If anyone knows the actual grade of steel and process involved, that would be useful information to share with us.

As to the merits of scissor or fork splitters, I would agree with most of what has been said. I first saw a fork splitter in a dodgy backstreet garage, professionals tend to use the scissor or Dusky's U type.

Some of the U types currentky available are flimsy. If you have welding equipment, a U type can be made at home. 2 pieces of thick plate, 8 or 10mm, and a thick wall tube, slit and opened out, with good external corner welds, should make a nice tool that will last a lifetime. You will find that a UNEF bolt (UNF is next best) and matching full nut, or better, an extra-thick nut, will give you maximum pushing force for a given torque. Grade 10.9 with matching nut is best, but if using grade 10.9 or above, best to prevent the nut from rotating by welding in some small abutment blocks rather than tacking the nut to the plate.

There should be a freely rotating pad between bolt end and the thing it is pushing. An embedded bearing ball is one way of doing it, but a cup is better to avoid spreading the end of the workpiece, and making it jam, as may have happened here.

[timmy850]

Thanks all, but it leaves me in some doubt.
To protect the thread and the hub:
1) Remove nut.
2) Nut in place with no stud proud of the nut
3) Nut in place with stud proud of the nut.

Definitely don't remove the nut before splitting the ball joints! Otherwise when they finally crack parts can go flying..

I wind out the nut until the ball joint separator can't touch the stud. Never had a problem that way.

[dyshipfakta]

But in place in line with top of the stud never fails.