26 replies to this topic

[minimans]

 

A sharp centre-punch and a hammer will almost certainly get that screw out.
In fact those screws are totally unnecessary and the wheel studs prevent the drum from coming off when the wheel is fitted.

I read a post of yours on earlier today where you mentioned that these screws are essentially useless and to just put some copper grease in between the drums and the alloys to prevent them binding so that's exactly what I'm going to do when I put everything back together. I'm going to try a punch tomorrow evening after work so hopefully that'll work

 

The screw ARE there for a reason. If you lose a wheel due to the nuts coming off or studs breaking at least you will still have brakes to stop the car! If the screws are not there then you risk losing the drum as well and total brake failure on the single line system or at least 50% if split system. Is it worth not fitting them?

[gazza82]

@Rorf, thanks for the advice, I think something like plus gas is a better option for penetrating rust though. Wasn't sure if spraying lubricant onto brakes parts was the best idea either?
 

 

Plus gas is much better or just any proper penetrating fluid .. just not WD40 unless it's their "penetrating fluid" .. but even then, could it be the same old water dispersant (hence WD) that is in all their other "specialist" cans? They seem to do a whole range but I'm sceptical .. and even more sceptical that WD40 can do it all .. (and we probably all know it can't!)

 

Even they don't recommend it for everything it seems ....

 

 WD40_uses.jpg   47.8K   0 downloads

 

 

Edited by gazza82, 03 October 2017 - 09:07 AM.

[bob540]

Annoyingly, B&Q didn't have any bits smaller than 8mm and I wasn't sure if it'd be too big or not but they did have screw extractors so I grabbed a pack of them instead. Anyone ever used them before? Do they work? Am I better off returning them and just drilling the head off?

[brownspeed]

I doubt it.- Did they come with a set of matching drill bits?*

screw extractors work by drilling a hole down the axis of the bolt/screw you want to remove, then you put the extractor in the hole (they're a sort of self tightening left handed thread) strike with a hammer (to get it to bite into the bolt) as you undo.

 

*if not- and you have a large flat bladed screwdriver and a hammer. Dig out your dremel, cut a slot in the screw head for the screwdriver- don't cut into the drum.

then with the screwdriver in your left hand and hammer in your right- try to undo the screw and lightly strike the end of the screwdriver at the same time.

 

alternatively- cut 2 slots at 90 degrees to each other and use a Phillips head driver in the same way.

or use a different dremel bit and carefully grind the head out.

 

if you have a mig welder- you could try and weld a piece of steel bar onto the remains of the screw head as a lever- the heat will also help the freeing process - but don't burn your hand

Edited by brownspeed, 03 October 2017 - 05:04 PM.

[panky]

Lidl usually have nice little sets of drills in the 'goody' isle. Even got a set with a left hand drill in for removing broken studs the other week.

[Cooperman]

I still think a sharp centre punch used accurately will get that out. It has always worked for me

I never use those screws and have never had any problems in over 50 years of playing with Minis.

Wheel studs don't snap and if the wheels are put on properly they don't come off, especially rear wheels.

[bob540]

I still think a sharp centre punch used accurately will get that out. It has always worked for me

I never use those screws and have never had any problems in over 50 years of playing with Minis.

Wheel studs don't snap and if the wheels are put on properly they don't come off, especially rear wheels.

I spent a good 45 minutes with a brand new centre punch trying to get it moving but it wouldn't budge, the screw head just deforms around the punch. I'm sure you'd get it moving in no time but unfortunately my skills and patience ran out.

[Cooperman]

 

I still think a sharp centre punch used accurately will get that out. It has always worked for me

I never use those screws and have never had any problems in over 50 years of playing with Minis.

Wheel studs don't snap and if the wheels are put on properly they don't come off, especially rear wheels.

I spent a good 45 minutes with a brand new centre punch trying to get it moving but it wouldn't budge, the screw head just deforms around the punch. I'm sure you'd get it moving in no time but unfortunately my skills and patience ran out.

 

I guess you'll have to drill it out then. Use a 6 mm drill which should do the job.

 

Once the drum is off, if the remains of the screw won't come out you can just file it flush and the drum will refit without a screw.

[tiger99]

There is another good reason for having retaining screws on both drum and disc brakes on almost any car. If the wheel is removed, and there is any movement, there is a risk of dirt or rust getting between hub flange and disc or drum, and then there will be brake judder etc because it is not running true. Keeping the disc or drum up tight to its mounting avoids that. The earlier Minis had two screws, which did a better job than the later ones with only one, but one is better than none.

 

Normal Mini discs, and those of some other classic cars, of course bolt to the back of the hub and are not affected by loosening the wheel nuts, but the principle of keeping the discs/drums tight on their mounting face, unless they are to be removed, does apply in most other cases, certainly all recent cars that I have seen.

[nicklouse]

top tip.

 

if the last retainer causes issues fit all the other ones back on to release the clamping force that has now been put onto the single fixing.

 

in other words but the nuts back on backwards and tighten. then undo the screw.

[bob540]

Drilled the head off this evening but the drum isn't coming off. Is there anything other than the screw I was having trouble with holding the drum on? If not, does anyone have anyone have any advice for getting it off?

[panky]

Back the brake shoe adjuster right off and tap around the drum with a mallet, that should do the trick.