261 replies to this topic

[Tonylamb]

10 inch wheels by the way

[imack]

Any tightness in steering rack or ball joints?
Positive camber wont make the steering heavy. Too much castor will make it heavy, too little and you'll not get any self centring action.

[Tonylamb]

No nothing noticeable. With car jacked up it all moves freely. to be honest i didnt really have a problem but was surprised at the camber. Im surebi can make it handle even better. It does have wider tyres which i assume make is slightly heavier steering. What is the standard mini camber?

[Tonylamb]

apologies as I've had my idiot switch turned on. I looked in the haynes book and the standard mini does indeed run 2 degrees of positive camber. So there is nothing wrong with mine. anyone have any views on negative camber on a fast road car. The negative camber arms aren't overly expensive?

[imack]

A bit of negative camber on the front for fast road is good, maybe 1 degreeish negative.
1 1/2 deg negative camber arms will only give 1 1/2 degrees less than you already have so you'll end up with 0.5 to 1.0 degree positive. Adjustable arms are probably the way to go and get it set up properly along with the castor.
If you're going to add negative camber to the front you really need to add it to the rear as well or you'll end up swapping ends!!

[Tonylamb]

I'm going to go with the adjustable arms as I already have adjustable tie rods. I thought I also might go for the revised damper mounts as well as they seem like a good idea. from reading posts though ihave a couple of questions.

1. if you go to negative camber I read that you have to put a 3mm plate under the stop that prevents over extension of the the suspension. this apparantly also protects the drive shafts from over extending? Does anyone have a diagram or picture of how this is fitted.

2. I am also interested in setting the toe in and camber on the rear. It seems that this is more imporatant than the front? I read you can over size the mounting braket hole and then weld a washer in place. Again anyone got a picture or a diagram of this proceedure or the welded bracket?

Cheers all.

[sonscar]

Is there enough "slide" lengthways in the driveshaft?I had a driveshaft that regularly pulled out of the CV joint at the wheel.I rebuilt the hub and a new joint which fixed it but I pondered this at the time.Steve..

[Tonylamb]

This is an interesting point as i've noticed that after I've been for a drive the near side driveshaft floats out of the differential housing. I can see maybe 2 inches of shaft exposed between the rubber gaiter and the housing. It must be close to falling out? I've pushed it back into place a couple of times. Is it possible that there is a circlip or something missing as I'm sure that's not supposed to happen.

[Tonylamb]

This is a picture of the driveshaft?? I'm sure its not supposed to stick out like this but it keeps doing it? Presumably there is a circlip or some such missing per my previous post.

[Tonylamb]

sorry forgot the pic

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[GraemeC]

Yep, that is wrong!

 

There should be a wire circlip on the output shaft that locates the pot joint. Sometimes these are missing or get displaced, although on some repro pot joints the groove inside the splines that the circlip should locate into has been badly cut

[Tonylamb]

so i presume i have to pull the shaft and check the circlip?

I've also discovered another intersting problem at the rear. I discovered that two of the bolts that hold the rear sub frame to the rear of the sill are missing. the holes that go into the body don't appear to have any threads as I have tried several bolts. I will have to drop the rear sub frame and either helicoil the threads or perhaps weld some captive nuts in. One question does anyone know the length and thread of these bolts?

[alex-95]

so i presume i have to pull the shaft and check the circlip?

I've also discovered another intersting problem at the rear. I discovered that two of the bolts that hold the rear sub frame to the rear of the sill are missing. the holes that go into the body don't appear to have any threads as I have tried several bolts. I will have to drop the rear sub frame and either helicoil the threads or perhaps weld some captive nuts in. One question does anyone know the length and thread of these bolts?

 

If the pot joint is sliding easily on the output shaft then it is unlikely the circlip is on the output shaft. When you put it in did the pot joint pretty much touch the diff cover or could you still see some of the shaft? If you can see the shaft it needs to go in a bit further and the clip should engage.

 

New nuts will have to be welded in as the original nuts aren't that big. these are the bolts 

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

[Tonylamb]

thanks Alex, I will get the car up on some stands and deal with the driveshaft. At the same time I'll take a better look at the bolt issue. I didn't know how long the bolts have to be so there may be some thread available. If not its a sub frame off and a new captive nut to be welded in on both sides of the car. Its odd that the guy who prepared the body and subframes before I bought it did such a fantastic job but didn't check this?

[Tonylamb]

I've added adjustable tie rods but they are supposed to be torqued at the subframe end. But I can't get a socket and my torque wrench in the gap between frame and front valance. Any advice.