261 replies to this topic

[evoderby]

Just watched the Youtube feature, very very very nice. Not being polite here.

I’m sure you’ll sort the mini’s engine out....indeed take it apart, put your mind at ease by telling yourself you would probably have upgraded to billet rods, forged pistons and a multiweb crank anyway within a year or so and sorting it now saves a lot of future work.

[Tonylamb]

A hugely broad question but if I want to buy an engine and Box for a bit of fun on the road. Nothing silly something driveable? Perhaps a 1293, who’s the best value for HP/torque/fun. I’ve been looking at Johnspeed but mini spares and mini sport also seem good?

[Tonylamb]

Would a stage 4 engine be too tricky for the road? The johnspeed 1293 stage 3 might be the one?

[nicklouse]

stage means nothing.

 

what is the build?

[Tonylamb]

I don’t know looked them up on Jon Speed website. My assumption is that Stage 1 would be adding a carb or a free flow exhaust, stage 2 something similar. Stage 3 some valve work and perhaps some head flow work. Maybe lighter flywheel. Stage 4 more internal work bigger valves and silly cam perhaps. It doesn’t really detail the differences

[Tonylamb]

My question was really more about reputation. Having been ripped off over an engine

[Tonylamb]

If you had £3k £3.5k to spend on an engine what would you go for? For a bit of road fun easy enough to drive in traffic

[nicklouse]

a 1380 short motor from Minispares. one of their heads and a gearbox from GuessWorks. flywheel etc from Minispares as well so it can all be balanced as the engine is built. if you want the parts building then John a t Guessworks can do it.

[Retroman]

If you had £3k £3.5k to spend on an engine what would you go for? For a bit of road fun easy enough to drive in traffic

Its a real shame someone took you for a ride on the other engine, how they sleep I will never know.

You could perhaps use that as a base unit, (not for the kitchen).

On your budget I could build you a really good 1360 or 1380, perfectly civilized for the road, and with loads of 'go' for reliable fun.

Its a case of picking the correct good quality components which will work in synergy to give you what you want, carefully built.

If you would like some testimonials PM or ring me

I have built race and championship winning engines and gearboxes too for several decades.  

For TMF reputation check out Petrol's build thread pages 91 and 92...

http://www.theminifo...rebuild/page-91

 

[Tonylamb]

thanks for replying I've Pm'd you with my details.  Lets talk when you have time.

 

Cheers

 

Tony

[Tonylamb]

To continue my theme of loads of questions. Whats the simplest way to improve the handling of a MK3 mini? I’ve read varying reports about lowering, widening track etc etc. Hi/Lows. I find myself thinking that car manufacturers spend a lot of money getting the balance between handling and ride spot on. Is it worth lowering or adding adjustable suspension to a mini. I like the look of the original coopers with the black wheel arches. What did they do to coopers to make them handle better. I’m talking about a road car here, so something that deals with POT HOLES would probably be more useful LOL.

[Retroman]

The Cooper S in the photo above has original unrusted Hydrolastic suspension, we fitted gate vales to the pipes which stops it pitching front to back as much.

  You are right Tony they did spend a lot of time and money, and as such the basic geometry really does take some improving on. The only ' modern' car which I can say was really up there with the Mini was a Mitsubishi Cordia, a 1.6 suck through turbo with about 140HP in a 2 door coupe, 205 1.9 comes 3rd for me.

  Anyhow the hydro tweek won't apply to yours, for a decent road use;

Standard rubber donuts, with hilo's which means you can set the ride height a bit lower.

Adjustable dampers or simply uprated.

If you don't go too low and have the dampers set too hard potholes are better as are 10" wheels.

   If you want you can go to town with adjustable bottom arms and tie rods at the front, so you can set camber and caster....

and adjustable rear toe and camber brackets.

The whole issue front and back then has to be correctly aligned, caster, camber, front tracking, rear toe and camber

You will then have the optimum setup....

The red S has all that and with 110bhp and 165 yoko tyres is like a rocket on rails, serious fun.

 

If you want a special for potholes you have a choice from our workshop....a New Holland 7840, a 30 series John Deere or an EVO rally car...I know which I prefer... LOL

[Tonylamb]

Thanks mate, lets see what the damage is with the engine first LOL. Then I might buy one of those kits with adjustable dampers high lows caster and camber and all that stuff. I also have drum brakes on the front which will have to go. I’m thinking of going with the 7.5inch discs which mini spares do as a full kit. Unless you have a better idea. I don’t think the 4 pot callipers are really necessary. Depends how much power we get I suppose.

Engine is all wrapped up on the pallet with the exhaust and the carb. Do you need the inlet manifold?

[Tonylamb]

Sussex council have done a swap with a Central African Country!! We got their roads I’m not sure what they got in return. LOL

[Tonylamb]

Just to back up the comments on the rogue engine builder from West Yorkshire. I sent my engine up to Andrew at Retro Mini’s he has stripped the motor and there is sadly a list a mile long of poorly put together and worn parts. It seems the rockers werent fixed down and worse the flywheel would have probably come off at some point. All rather frightening. Anyway a lesson learned. Its not all bad news as Andrew says some of the components are useable and the block is OK. Crank shaft is toast though. Andrew will now build me a proper motor. Thanks to him for offering his services and expertise.

Thanks to they guys who pointed out the dangers its a lesson learned. These ******* have no shame it seems, because the guy must know he is selling crap stuff.