20 replies to this topic

[grizzler73]

Hi chap's
Was watching a video on YouTube from MED engineering yesterday and they mentioned that they often do a 'Appendix K' dry deck which involves blocking the 4 water holes in the block around number one cylinder only, thus forcing the water further down the engine. I don't really want to go to the expense of full dry decking of its not needed so this seems a good compromise in getting water to number 4 cylinder. What do peeps think? Perhaps using the heater valve outlet as a feed from the pump as well?
Cheers
Simon

[jonny f]

It's very common on race cars where a full dry deck is not allowed.

 

Although if your reason is expense, i just tapped my block and head holes and put grub screws in. Makes it cheaper to do. Bit of lock tite thread seal.

[dotmatrix]

I cannot comment on whether or not enough water will get through the holes, but the general idea of forcing the water to go by cylinder 4 before entering the cylinder head is a good idea.

I can how ever comment on the appendix k part of your question, and the answer is that unless you can prove that they did it in the period you are building your car to comply with it is not allowed. But no one will know as its inside the engine.

Edited by dotmatrix, 10 April 2018 - 07:25 PM.

[grizzler73]

Just to clarify, I'm not building a FIA 'K' engine, it was a comment on the MED video by the engine builder that it is what some people do. JonnyF, I was thinking of buying brass plugs and doing it myself, I have to skim the deck anyway.

[nicklouse]

Hi chap's
Was watching a video on YouTube from MED engineering yesterday and they mentioned that they often do a 'Appendix K' dry deck which involves blocking the 4 water holes in the block around number one cylinder only, thus forcing the water further down the engine. I don't really want to go to the expense of full dry decking of its not needed so this seems a good compromise in getting water to number 4 cylinder. What do peeps think? Perhaps using the heater valve outlet as a feed from the pump as well?
Cheers
Simon

i will not comment on the dry decking idea as it is not something i have done other than to say why not it seems reasonable but if the engine is out why not fully dry deck it.

 

but to your plumbing.the heater outlet will only ever be an outlet it cant be "a feed from the pump".

 

now that is clear where are we going to reconnect this outlet to. there are two minds to this one says that hot coolant should be fed into the top hose so it gets cooled by the rad. then there is the other that say it would have gone back into the bottom hose only having been slightly cooled by the car heater so does it matter. (my preferred option). BUT in this case i would consider running it through a heater matrix to give you some more cooling if needed. as you might just find you need it.

[skoughi]

I tapped and fitted grub screws with some thread lock to the coolant holes around no1 cylinder, opened up the aperture where the water pump bolts onto so that there's a bigger hole leading to the rear of no1 cylinder, and the heater takeoff on no4 cylinder end of the head is now a open pipe that still feeds the heater ( later heater fitted that has the on/off valve inside the car) but when the heater matrix cannot flow any more coolant through it the there's a simple pipe arrangement that allows excess water back to the pump. This means that there's a constant flow of coolant from no4 end of the head to the water pump weather the heater matrix is open or closed.

[grizzler73]

To complicate the issue I have a GTM with the engine in the back rad in the front and no heater, so it seems if not doing the full dry deck, then run a pipe back to the thermostat housing from the heater valve outlet?

Edited by grizzler73, 10 April 2018 - 09:40 PM.

[nicklouse]

ahhh front rad not side like some. you have better cooling and greater volume  i would plumb into bottom hose maybe with a restrictior to bring the ID down a bit.

[timmy850]

If you run the heater valve takeoff back into the bottom hose you're bypassing the radiator (and the thermostat). Mine was setup like this and caused the car to run hot.

 

Either:

Stick in a heater core for extra cooling then back to the bottom hose (this is what I did and it now runs nice and cool)

Send it to the top hose or thermostat housing.

 

Some good reading here:

https://www.calverst...g-how-it-works/

https://www.calverst...nt-temperature/

[nicklouse]

nope. all that happens is the engine gets to temp faster. been doing it since the 80s. and with the GTM you have a massive rad and quite a few more liters of water.

[jonny f]

Just to clarify, I'm not building a FIA 'K' engine, it was a comment on the MED video by the engine builder that it is what some people do. JonnyF, I was thinking of buying brass plugs and doing it myself, I have to skim the deck anyway.

 

Why not go full dry deck?

 

Also to be honest i can't think of a reason why people plug them over tapping a thread. Personally I would rather grub screw them as it makes access when cleaning in future builds much easier.

[grizzler73]

Just cost really, I think the money could be better spent elsewhere. I agree with the plugs idea and that was my intention. Thanks guys, as usual a great response from everyone!

[jonny f]

I bought mine from here. https://airlink.flui...-caps--locknuts

I dont think my conversion owes me more than £100 I got my head modified by a local engineering company and the stubs from www.turbo-mini.com

Edited by jonny f, 12 April 2018 - 11:35 PM.

[Tupers]

How far along the block did you go with yours Jonny?

Also brass plugs or steel?

[Turbo Phil]

I sell the dry deck adaptors and hose kits if anybody needs these. I can also machine the end of the cylinder head to accept the adaptor to. http://www.turbo-mini.com/accessories/

As suggested tapping the block and using grub screws is by far the easiest and cheapest method.

Phil.