20 replies to this topic

[malc_west]

Thinking of super charging, currently got a standard 1275 metro lump with twin carbs. Only done some initial looking but are vmax kits good? And what extra work would the engine require to work or could you charge first and upgrade other bits after. I'm fairly clueless so kind of looking for a sequence of mods including a charger that gets to a minimum of 100bhp at the wheels

[DeadSquare]

It is easy enough to get 100 brake horsepower at the wheels of a 1275, but you only get it in a narrow portion of the rev range.

 

If you fit a supercharger, you will get near 100 brake horsepower, but over a much broader rev range.

 

For ordinary driving on the road, what you need to aim for his torque, because it is torque that gives you acceleration.

[Minigman]

I’ve heard good things but would be keen to know real life experiences too as I’m considering this for one of my minis.

[malc_west]

So any thoughts on the vmax kits then? Or an order of modification? Cheers lads

[Chris.Williams]

A taller final drive is a help, makes all that power useable.
I’m doing a front mount radiator with mine, lots more thought and work, but if it wasn’t for that, bolt on and go. ( invest in good/extra engine/gearbox steadies )

[Minigman]

There’s a member on here called maccers who has done a Vmax conversion. It might be worth finding out how he’s getting on.

[mini13]

Stu at V max is very good and has beeen doing these kits a long time,

 

first off, not all 1275 engines are created equal, get the engine number off it and try to find the spec, what you really need to know is what what pistons it has in it.

 

basically I wouldnt bother with the 22150 or 21252 pistons, the 21253's are ok, bit you need to check you can get the compression ratio low enough,

 

2nd, you will need to rebuild the engine, generally its pointless whacking a charger straight on a 30 year old engine thats done 100,000 as it'll probably smoke like train... and honestly ehile its apart you may as well rebore to 1293 and put decent pistons in.

 

 

If i was doing a charged engine for that power (I'm a turbo guy really) I'd spec it as below.

 

1293 with cast omega's & 10c pistons,  ( even with the 10cc you might struggle to get the compression down so I would look at getting the piston dishes taken out a little maybe 3cc your looking for around 8-1 to 8.2:1 compression IMO)

rebore to 1293 and get the deck flushed to 10 thou above the pistons ( i really am not a fan of running the pistons down the bore or using decompression plates/gaskets.)

decent head on 35/31 valves and chambers taken out to 28cc.

crank and rods can all be standard asuming theres no wear, just renew all the bearings.

cam can be standard, but while its apart it may be well woth sticking somthing a little hotter in ( not too hot!)  somthing like a Kent 500 ( mg metro cam), kent 266, or similar.

a turbo clutch cover should be fine at that power level, and i would definalty fit an X pin diff

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

You just need an engine in good condition. Uprated diff and lower the compression ratio by either decompression plate, new pistons or chambered head. Use a basic cam and standard rockers. I have had the old vmax kit, currently have a blow through set up and about to run Stuart's new Weber set up, so can't comment on how good it is, but judging by how many of the new kits he's sold, I can't see them being rubbish.

Also mappable ignition curve with something like amethyst or megajolt. Amethyst is easier to install

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 29 July 2018 - 10:44 AM.

[malc_west]

Thanks for all the advice lads

[Dannyboolahlah]

I have the VMAX Weber kit.
Bottled on to an otherwise standard 998. Had a few issues getting it to fit, but that was down to my engine more than the kit. Stuart was always happy to help, and sent me out some different bits to try free of charge, and was always on the other end of the phone when I needed advice. Can’t fault it at all. All looks good quality and well made.
Still need to get it set up properly though, runs great at higher revs, but bogs down under acceleration a bit at lower revs. Think it’s a timing issue.

[Bolders]

There is a Youtube channel called mightycarmods that have supercharged a cooper, albeit a japanese variant,  they might be worth watching. You will have to look in the archives of their channel because he changes the engine in it later to a civic one,

 

https://www.youtube....S6XFxq9Ga8W2J3A

 

 

That's their channel hope this helps

[postve]

You just need an engine in good condition. Uprated diff and lower the compression ratio by either decompression plate, new pistons or chambered head. Use a basic cam and standard rockers. I have had the old vmax kit, currently have a blow through set up and about to run Stuart's new Weber set up, so can't comment on how good it is, but judging by how many of the new kits he's sold, I can't see them being rubbish.

Also mappable ignition curve with something like amethyst or megajolt. Amethyst is easier to install

 

Hello Hubba.hubba,

 

Just going through this thread and planning a VMAX kit/webber for my 1293 - specs almost bang on to what was mentioned above - do you have an update thread on how you're turned out??

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

You just need an engine in good condition. Uprated diff and lower the compression ratio by either decompression plate, new pistons or chambered head. Use a basic cam and standard rockers. I have had the old vmax kit, currently have a blow through set up and about to run Stuart's new Weber set up, so can't comment on how good it is, but judging by how many of the new kits he's sold, I can't see them being rubbish.

Also mappable ignition curve with something like amethyst or megajolt. Amethyst is easier to install

 
Hello Hubba.hubba,
 
Just going through this thread and planning a VMAX kit/webber for my 1293 - specs almost bang on to what was mentioned above - do you have an update thread on how you're turned out??

Yep works fine. Can be a bugger to start though. But I think its because the pluggs get sorted up as I do not much driving and more on idle tinkering.

[postve]

 

 

You just need an engine in good condition. Uprated diff and lower the compression ratio by either decompression plate, new pistons or chambered head. Use a basic cam and standard rockers. I have had the old vmax kit, currently have a blow through set up and about to run Stuart's new Weber set up, so can't comment on how good it is, but judging by how many of the new kits he's sold, I can't see them being rubbish.

Also mappable ignition curve with something like amethyst or megajolt. Amethyst is easier to install

 
Hello Hubba.hubba,
 
Just going through this thread and planning a VMAX kit/webber for my 1293 - specs almost bang on to what was mentioned above - do you have an update thread on how you're turned out??

Yep works fine. Can be a bugger to start though. But I think its because the pluggs get sorted up as I do not much driving and more on idle tinkering.

 

 

 

Good to know and I drive mine regularly and when you say - plugs get sorted up - assume you mean gummed up do to lack of use -- please please post a picture would love to see it for a reference guide. 

 

I am purchasing the cross pin diff and probably a lightened fly wheel - I really question that original on car is 22pd but anyways. I will purchase Stuarts webber set up and did you have to tweak it a bit as I guess he has a standard setup and you would do the rest.  I have a Calver dizzy with vacuum advance which I believe should do the trick for timing remapping.  Any other things I should be thinking about?? Setup is combining to Canada so trying to limit the back and forth.

[postve]

Just wrapping up install and planning to fire it up tomorrow - I pulled engine added lightened flywheel, orange diaphragm, cross pin diff and now this