20 replies to this topic

[postve]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="postve" data-cid="3677704" data-time="1609004217"><p><p><blockquote class="ipsBlockquote" data-author="HUBBA.HUBBA" data-cid="3676468" data-time="1607976271"><p>Humm a real pain to get it started and Hubba any tips as max in richness and she kicks but dies?? I suspect maybe need to dabble in the dizzy retard/advance but open to thoughtssSo here’s what happened;1 - had fuel pressure at 4.5 - way too high - set dizzy - she made some rumbling noises like ready to start, then that was it - too much fuel and note at this tune have not touched mixture screws - saw some fuel under carb so wayyy too much being forced through 2 - adjusted down to 3.0 as per Stuart’s instructions, almost Maxed on mixture, as she would not start out of the box with this setting , this time a lot more lively but again after a few cranks, simply will not startt3 - planning to reach out to Stuart but I should be able to fix thisPhilPlugs Plugs gapped at 0.403.0 olm coilNew dizzy with vacuum advance (don’t use vacuum)New wires and spark plugs Help!!Phil

Edited by postve, 12 June 2021 - 12:39 AM.

[postve]

I have the VMAX Weber kit.
Bottled on to an otherwise standard 998. Had a few issues getting it to fit, but that was down to my engine more than the kit. Stuart was always happy to help, and sent me out some different bits to try free of charge, and was always on the other end of the phone when I needed advice. Can’t fault it at all. All looks good quality and well made.
Still need to get it set up properly though, runs great at higher revs, but bogs down under acceleration a bit at lower revs. Think it’s a timing issue.

So Danny, did you eventually get the car sorted out and any tips?

[postve]

Good news she runs great!!!

[postve]

So in conclusion as now have 250KLM on it and breaking the SC in nicely (Amazing torque and pulls in all four gears - 3:44) - a few points;

 

- Weber DCOE needle valve  had a few bits of rubber that disintegrated inside the fuel line from a useless old hose I used to set it up originally, so basically would not seal properly and gas just started pouring out the trumpets - cleaned out, added brand new OEM hose, problem solved;

 

- Fuel pressure at 2.5 psi as per Stuart, works like a charm;

 

- I have the long SC pulley hose- 1137 - but ordered the short 1125, which should add more tension and max on spin and likewise boost - right now I am getting@8, shooting for 9 out of the box and then again have not hit the magic 6,000-6,500 RPM on my piper255K as again breaking it in;

 

- Watch the Brake cylinder cannister as SC does NOT clear this and if you install   -NOT FLUSH - like I did, will blow air out the exhaust manifold gasket (engine will run like a truck)  as no matter how tight you screw those carb bolts air will get out due to SC not sitting FLUSH - So, I tapped down cannister in leu of buying a plastic new fangled smaller Brake master cylinder and she now fits flush and runs great (buying plastic cannister in fall as I want to drive the damn thing)

 

- You MUST do the following before buying SC - IMHO (Canadian dollars)

 

: Leak down test (By a kit off Amazon - $60;

: Compression test (By a kit off Amazon - $40;

: Pull the cylinder head and check piston walls for scoring, ring damage etc;

: LCB Big bore exhaust (@$200);

: Install 7.5 cooper "S" brake discs - I have 10 inch wheels - so you can stop the damn car;

: Make sure you have excellent tyres and suggest Yoko A0032's

: Drill for AFR sensor at the 10 degree angle at the mid to end point of the "Y" pipe - see below for must have gauges;

: Make damn sure your floors and general body of the car is solid and not full of rust, you will rip the car apart with the torque...

 

 

-<b> You must have the following - IMHO - </b>

 

: AFR gauge,

: Vacuum/boost gauge, to monitor the health of the engine on an ongoing basis;

: Mechanical Water temp gauge - you want pin point accuracy as to how hot the engine is;

: Oil Pressure gauge MUST be in good working order

: Cross PIN Differential - If you don't you will break your gear box for sure (Requires engine removal)

: Fuel Pressure Gauge - Max 2.5 PSI for VMAX SC;

: Facet Fuel pump;

: Malpasse fuel regulator

: Accurate Tachometer, generally $60 should do it - Pro-Tach;

 

 

Lastly, DO NOT GET ANYONE TO INSTALL THIS - do it yourself as painful for a newbie like me as it was, well worth it when done and you can figure out if any issues on your own and not pay through the nose for some mechanic to experiment on yer car.

[postve]

Runs great and moving to 115mm pulley wheel - excellent torque and love the response !!

[postve]

To conclude on this thread that I left hanging the 115 mm crank pulley from VMAX worked out (1-2 psi increase) but lost one due to the crank bolt bottoming out before it could fully tighten - simply flipped back to my original and not to mention the old reliable lock washer

All good now