12 replies to this topic

[Bobbins]

Has anyone managed to fit a Spiyda Fuel Gauge Wizard with the 3-clock MPi setup? My gauge reads full when the tank's full, but when the gauge needle has dropped down past the empty mark I've only used around 20 of the 33 litres available, I do around 500 miles/week so if I'm using the Mini it would help if I could get more than 20 litres range without going into self destruct panic mode!

 

Details here: https://www.spiyda.c...wizard-mk3.html

 

I'm posting this here because my car's a 1998 JDM Cooper with the last type 3-clock dash and I'm unsure whether there were any changes made over earlier cars. I'm expecting it would be better fitted at the gauge end (rather than at the sender) so shouldn't be too difficult to interrupt the feed to the gauge.

 

[Steve220]

Cool! Not seen those before.

[Bobbins]

I actually bought one a few months ago for another car that I have that's in the middle of an engine rebuild, the fuel gauge on that is just not linear and shows over 1/2 full when there's about a 1/4 of a tank left ... then just plummets. I bought the Spiyda unit to try to give a more linear gauge action but not got round to fitting it. It's makes sense to try it on the Mini, I'm doing a lot of miles and the current gauge is about as much use as an ear on the front of your head!

[Spider]

I've just moved this to the general area of PQT.

 

 

It actually sounds like your sender could be karput. I'd check that first before going any further.

[Mini Manannán]

I've just moved this to the general area of PQT.

 

 

It actually sounds like your sender could be karput. I'd check that first before going any further.

 

 

My gauge does the same kinda thing.  Go on Chris, how do we check the sender?

[Bobbins]

I assume there must be standard resistance values for full and empty ... anyone know what they should be?

[Bobbins]

A new sender, seal and locating ring from Minispares comes to £30 ... I think there's a limit to how much time I'm going to spend testing parts rather than just replacing them.

[Spider]

Empty the Sender has around 240 ohms and at Full, it should be around 30 ohms.

[whistler]

Empty the Sender has around 240 ohms and at Full, it should be around 30 ohms.

I just put an ohmmeter across the live and earth terminal (disconnect wire)and move the float rod to check for continuous reading throughout the movement range.
The start and finish readings should as stated by Moke.

[carlosgt]

Has anyone tried to fit one of these already? I'm really tempted to get one

[Spider]

Just before reaching out for one of these Kits, it might be worthwhile spending a few hours just checking out what you have and tweaking it up.

 

http://www.theminifo...s/#entry3656346

 

The Gauge Matchers are great and reasonably easy to fit and adjust, but I view them as a great means of matching up what is normally incompatible Gauges and Senders, rather than a fix for what should be a matched pair.

[InnoCooperExport]

This looks like a great idea! I might have to get one for the old man's MGA, the original senders are impossible to find in a good condition and all reproductions are the wrong resistance. We've been racking our brains over how to fix this issue, hopefully this will prevent us from having to rewind the coil to the correct resistance!

[carlosgt]

Just before reaching out for one of these Kits, it might be worthwhile spending a few hours just checking out what you have and tweaking it up.

 

http://www.theminifo...s/#entry3656346

 

The Gauge Matchers are great and reasonably easy to fit and adjust, but I view them as a great means of matching up what is normally incompatible Gauges and Senders, rather than a fix for what should be a matched pair.

The problem is that I own a MPI and that guide works only for SPI and earlier cars right?