47 replies to this topic

[vasi]

Its a complete redesign of the MS idea, from scratch. All surface mount, very small footprint. Various programmable outputs for shift lights etc. And of course the WB circuit. It's designed to be as broadrange as possible in its scope for application. My friend has spent the last 12 months solid working on it (and frying tracks, CPU's). The alpha unit has been set aside and the first pre-production one is being tested on an A+ with a ford coil pack and Rover Spi, the ECU taking the pickup directly from the hall sensor and driving the coil pack direct. It actually worked yesterday so we were forced to open a bottle of chateaux neuf-du-pape.

I shall be running it for fuel only on the 1380, taking a pickup from the distributor. He's also got a few other beta testers lined up to get a bigger picture, R21 Turbo, Westfield with a Zetec, Triumph TR6.

He's hoping to get a marketable product in the next 6 months.

[Jammy]

Ooooo, very interesting Vasi. Any other advantages of your system over MS besides the small footprint?

Would it work with other engines, say a Vtec?

[fikus01]

has anyone heard of megajolt?? if you're running the gm fuel injection system then you could just use megajolt to run the spark side of things!! plus if u want some 36-1 pickups for an a-series have a look at this

http://www.mini-pulleys.com/

or for megajolt start reading on the link below!!

http://picasso.org/mjlj/

[Bill USN-1]

I was just reading up on the microsquirt.
It is supposed to offer all the megasquirt has but in a smaller footprint.(like a credit card)
The only thing left off is the MAP sensor is now external like the GM system.

Microsquirt info



These new units could really open up the market!!

has anyone heard of megajolt?? if you're running the gm fuel injection system then you could just use megajolt to run the spark side of things!! plus if u want some 36-1 pickups for an a-series have a look at this

http://www.mini-pulleys.com/

or for megajolt start reading on the link below!!

http://picasso.org/mjlj/

I was just wondering if I could machine notches in the harmonic balancer and have it work!
I wonder if he does 6 vice 36? Thanks for the link.


I think megajolt would be a huge step backwards.
The GM and the megasquirt both control fuel and timing.
To slave another controller in just to do timing would be uneeded.
I think the whole reason for megajolt is to have timing control with a carb.

Also the GM DIS is already designed as a bypass system so it should be pretty much a plug and play unit once I get the timing wheel made and mounted.

I'm thinking I will start with a wheel attached to the back of the balancer, then when it works I can take my spare and just notch it. Or buy one if his are reasonable.

Edited by Bill USN-1, 15 October 2006 - 01:29 PM.

[blueci]

I was just wondering if I could machine notches in the harmonic balancer and have it work!

That will work fine. We marked out and cut with a pillar drill and decent bit. Get the -1 in the right place though

[Bill USN-1]

That will work fine. We marked out and cut with a pillar drill and decent bit. Get the -1 in the right place though

I was thinking about the adjustability and where to locate the sensor. I think that would determine the notch location.


But I was also looking at my engines while I was doing my 7.5 disc brake swap today....
and noticed my 1098 has this little dust shield thing behind the harmonic balancer.

Given the location, I think it would be great to mount the ring to. Then the sensor can mount almost flat against the timing cover.

Anyone have one of these seperate? Is it a totally seperate piece that just slides on the key of the crank?

[Bill USN-1]

OK, While waiting to see if anyone has an answer to the dust ring I got started on step one.

Here is the start of the reluctor ring. It's .200" steel. I'm thinking about mounting screws countersunk and located every 45° or 90° to allow for positioning of the pick up.
Already have the coil pack and wiring coming from ebay. It was a 2.2L GM donor.

[Bill USN-1]

Step 2.
If one is good then 2 are better.
I decided to make a reluctor ring and modify a balancer!!
The notches are 3/16 wide and 1/4" deep.

Edited by Bill USN-1, 17 October 2006 - 02:38 PM.

[fikus01]

just curious but wouldnt drilling all these holes require the re-balancing of the balancer before its refited??

[Bill USN-1]

just curious but wouldnt drilling all these holes require the re-balancing of the balancer before its refited??

Yep.
And technically adding the wheel to the front with the notches in it would also require balancing.

I haven't read on any of the aftermarket ignition sites where they state their 36 tooth rings are balanced.

So I either compensate for the 1 extra notch( all the others are exactly the same and evenly spaced) or I take my chances that the material from the one extra notch won't make a big difference.

[Sprocket]

Never liked this idea for a few resons.

1) the harmonic carachteristics have now differed from that of the engine, though it not severe, it still alters.

2) The harmonic balance weight that you are using as the reluctor is not directly fixed to the hub. It is isolated with rubber ( the damping medium). This can and does seperate causing the balance wheight to move.

3) The factory balance is screwed up requiring re balancing

And

4) Because the balance weight is isolated with rubber from the hub, it will tend to move anyway with acceleration and deceleration. Again not much maybe nothing that is concerning, but its still an inacuracy.

I personaly will be using one of these http://www.specialis...odCategoryID=17

Edited by Mini Sprocket, 17 October 2006 - 07:08 PM.

[fikus01]

ouch bit pricey tho!! im sure u could just but a ford pressed steel tone wheel and adapt it to fit for much less!! i think they ae only £12

Edited by fikus01, 17 October 2006 - 07:08 PM.

[Bill USN-1]

I think the intended use of the engine may come into play also.

I am building a fairly stock motor for the street.

I felt after looking at the minipulley balancers that mine would be a lot less intrusive with only 6 notches.



Now my wheel may not be light weight and lazer cut but it's the same principle.

I did not see a reference to those being dynamically balanced either. They may be?

With the missing tooth there is always an imbalance.

Now if we talk high rpm race motors...will that light weight wheel tend to flex more causing inacuracies?

I would think that if the outer ring on the balancer slips, I would have more problems then a possible 1/10 of 1 degree variation in timing. Even a 1° change is not going to affect a street motor enough to notice.

I'm just a DIY'r that looks for ways to get results cheap.
But I also don't hack things together either.

When I see a company modifying and selling a balancer to the mini community and people recommending them..then I would have to assume the priciples are sound and have been tested. If not, they would not be in bussiness for long.

[Sprocket]

I'll be very honest and say, that even though the Mini Pulleys are very good, functional and recomended by many, the guy that makes these is like me and you, he does it as a service rather than a as a company. They are either your original pulley machined or an exchange item. I doubt very much that ballance was even considered as the majority of the people who use these usualy have the whole rotating assembly balanced any way. The only testing done is, That It Works. These mave more machined off the balance weight so id expect the characteristics to have change some what more than yours. Again i dont think this was taken into consideration, and, on high performance engines i think this is a mistake, but again, thats me. Might be feck all wrong with it.

There are several of these on VERY high powered engines and no one has yet to have any issues with them. Obviously carefull selection of these pulleys is important.

Its down to my personal prefference. Ive seen the outer ring move on these. Ive also seen so many where the rubber has perished and started to explode from the center.

To much of a risk on a high performance engine, where its been tuned close to operating limits. Obviously if your EMS has a knock sensor that should retard the ignition, if it becomes a problem. Supose it will be fine on a fairly standard road engine. Iits me just being me and shying away from any potential problems.

Just make sure the rubber in the pulley is in tip top condition.

[fikus01]

i know megajolt isnt an option on this car because ur using efi but on the picasso mj site theres a lof of info about pickup wheels, where to get them and what can be modified to suite!!

also would a spi or twinpoint flywheel/pickup combo do the job?? after all rover put it in there for a reason!!