33 replies to this topic

[jeffster06]

Hello all,

I am in the process of rebuilding my 1275 out of a 91 Rover. It currently has a 3.44 final drive which I dont plan on changing.

I've been snooping around and figure I should ask questions before I dump money into a motor that won't quite run right. My ultimate goal is to have a fun mountain runner.

I'm waiting on the machine shop to tell me how much I need to bore out of the cylinders to correct some pitting so pistons are up in the air. I have been eye balling a Kent 286 cam kit but then read that might be too much for a road runner. I am also looking to go with larger intake valves (35mm) and have the head ported and polished. Looking to get the mini spares lightweight flywheel clutch kit as well. I have an hif44 and am going to get the better flowing manifold from mini spares and still working out what needle to get. Also considering mini sport 1.5 rockers.

Current mods aside from the 3.44, xpin diff, maniflow stage 2 lcb, cone filter, maniflow twin box center exit.

Thanks in advance

[Retroman]

As you are State side I would be using an APT cam and followers

 

Probably a VP7 or even a scatter VP3 the are both good for the road

 

If you go to say + 060" [1330] the engine becomes less cammy meaning a VP3 will make it a perfectly streetable flyer

 

https://www.aptfast.com/

 

I would not use the Msprt 1.5's either offset bushes or Calver St 1.4 rockers

 

Also avoid the cone filter, the standard airbox with a few holes is better [and cheaper]

 

https://www.calverst...air-filtration/

 

If you want the best from the HIF44 it needs Vizarding properly and a Stub stack with a decent sized K&N

 

http://www.retromini...roducts_id=1270

 

 

 

Go with the 35mm valves and polish combustion chambers but not ports

 

The light flywheel needs either a Turbo type pressure plate or the uprated lighter FW  or both

 

and use a solid centre spinner plate too

 

the rest sounds good

[dotmatrix]

...and a Stub stack with a decent sized K&N

can you link to a filtre like that?

[Retroman]

http://www.retromini...products_id=190

[KTS]

http://www.retromini...products_id=190

 

i think you might want to correct the price on that item Retroman

 

currently showing as £1,234.50

[jeffster06]

Thanks for the info, seems there's a million different directions one can go when building. I checked out APT cam and price wise its almost twice what I can get from ordering something from the UK, before shipping costs, not sure if the recommendation was because they are stateside or if its really the best available. It seems everyone has a preference when it comes to cams as well, from some facebook posts i've seen. 

 

I heard back from the machine shop and I will be boring to .040. Someone in another discussion recommended getting 1.3 rockers from MED engineering, while checking them out I see they also sell pistons, are there die cast pistons any good? From the looks of it they seem to sell just about everything I need head, cam (they have a nice kit that comes with quite a few parts, was eyeing their RS cam), block wise. Also I notice there are options for flat, 6.5cc, or 10cc the factory pistons had a dish, I'm guessing I want either a 6.5 or the 10? not sure what any of these numbers mean in the end. 

 

Also Retroman, the cone filter was already on the mini when I got it. I do like the stub stack idea with the k&n. I will also look into the vizard carb suggestion. 

[Spider]

 I checked out APT cam and price wise its almost twice what I can get from ordering something from the UK, before shipping costs

 

I've used many Cams from the UK suppliers and also those from APT.

 

I'm in Aust, so I also have to pay high freight costs out of the US for the APT Cams.

 

Having tried a number of all the cams, I'll only ever buy APT Cams now. I've found for me, they work better than any UK made Cam, they are properly ground, hardened and finished for a better life too. You get what you pay for.

[jeffster06]

Took a look at APT again, I was actually mistaken they appear to have varying levels of some of the cams Retroman mentioned, first one I saw was the performance cam that was close to $500, the other regrinds are more in line with what I have been seeing price wise. I can't seem to find the VP7 on their site. The scatter VP3 appears to have a power band further in the rev range 2900-6700 I feel like that's a little up there for road runner. but then again I have been somewhat scared to even rev this thing past 4500 (this could be in part to the engine needing help out of the gate). 

[Retroman]

At the end of the day its your choice for anything but nothing will beat an APT cam its David Vizards old company for a start and Dave Anton runs it now, He was DV's partner.

  If you are after decent power and fun for a road runner you will need to rev it to a degree without going mad.

With a 3.44 diff you will find 3000 rpm is only about 50 MPH in 4th, you should be doing that in 2nd !!

I think the VP7 is the same or similar to VP10

APT don't do regrinds, it all plasma nitrided billets

[Retroman]

 

http://www.retromini...products_id=190

 

i think you might want to correct the price on that item Retroman

 

currently showing as £1,234.50

 

 

Thanks for that KTS but....1st paragraph...

 

"There are so many K & N air filters different sizes and offsets for different carbs please message with your requirements and we can advise/quote you"

 

   If was listed at any price it would be wrong, as the price varies and its non specific, if it was listed at zero someone would be expecting a free K&N, and yes someone would, probably at least once a week.

[jeffster06]

Retroman, I am still looking at them. Their website does list the SPVP3-MN as an A+ regrind so now Im a little confused. Either way I am thinking about going with the vp3 a little cammy isn't always a bad thing, kind of fun at red lights lol. I figure I can run the stock rockers in the beginning and go with something different down the road if I want a little more out of it. I know I will need to do something about the distributor any thoughts on that? 

[ACDodd]

That picture shows an induction hardened cam. My own billets are produced in this way.

Ac

[DeadSquare]

@AC.  Do you grind your billet cams, in house?

[Retroman]

Retroman, I am still looking at them. Their website does list the SPVP3-MN as an A+ regrind so now Im a little confused. Either way I am thinking about going with the vp3 a little cammy isn't always a bad thing, kind of fun at red lights lol. I figure I can run the stock rockers in the beginning and go with something different down the road if I want a little more out of it. I know I will need to do something about the distributor any thoughts on that? 

I find the APT website really clunky and have not found any regrinds before

I love the VP3 and running the std rockers for a start give you options and spreads to cost out too

 

That picture shows an induction hardened cam. My own billets are produced in this way.

Ac

I understood it to be plasma nitrided, either way it does the job

[Retroman]

 I know I will need to do something about the distributor any thoughts on that? 

 

You will find the compression needs to be about 10:1 so a distributor with less advance may be needed. 

 

As you are stateside what fuel octane choice have you  ?