33 replies to this topic

[jeffster06]

Retroman, I can get 93 octane where I am at. 

[Wiggy]

Which is equal to UK 98 RON Super Unleaded.

[Spider]

 

Retroman, I am still looking at them. Their website does list the SPVP3-MN as an A+ regrind so now Im a little confused. Either way I am thinking about going with the vp3 a little cammy isn't always a bad thing, kind of fun at red lights lol. I figure I can run the stock rockers in the beginning and go with something different down the road if I want a little more out of it. I know I will need to do something about the distributor any thoughts on that? 

I find the APT website really clunky and have not found any regrinds before

I love the VP3 and running the std rockers for a start give you options and spreads to cost out too

 

That picture shows an induction hardened cam. My own billets are produced in this way.

Ac

I understood it to be plasma nitrided, either way it does the job

 

 

That (Plasma Nitrided) they are.

[ACDodd]

Newman cams grind all my cams.

Ac

[DeadSquare]

Newman cams grind all my cams.

Ac

Thank you.

[ACDodd]

Plasma nitrided would not show the heat affected areas, as the whole cam would be one colour.

Ac

[Retroman]

Hello all,

I am in the process of rebuilding my 1275 out of a 91 Rover. It currently has a 3.44 final drive which I dont plan on changing.

I've been snooping around and figure I should ask questions before I dump money into a motor that won't quite run right. My ultimate goal is to have a fun mountain runner.

I'm waiting on the machine shop to tell me how much I need to bore out of the cylinders to correct some pitting so pistons are up in the air. I have been eye balling a Kent 286 cam kit but then read that might be too much for a road runner. I am also looking to go with larger intake valves (35mm) and have the head ported and polished. Looking to get the mini spares lightweight flywheel clutch kit as well. I have an hif44 and am going to get the better flowing manifold from mini spares and still working out what needle to get. Also considering mini sport 1.5 rockers.

Current mods aside from the 3.44, xpin diff, maniflow stage 2 lcb, cone filter, maniflow twin box center exit.

Thanks in advance

 

Any spec / decisions ?

[jeffster06]

Still working the details/budget. I am waiting on my first round of parts to bring the machine shop. I went with omega +40 pistons (machine shop said I needed to go 40 over) with a 6.5cc dish, 1.40" valves, 1.157" exhaust, dual springs from mini spares, and alloy retainers. 

 

Still debating on the cam, I like the idea of the scatter but worry it might be too much of a pain on the low end, also the tuning end of things (actually thats a fear all around). Been leaning towards maybe going a little milder. 

 

My goal is something fun in the mountains but I also don't want to get into a situation where if I do decide to drive to work or get stuck in traffic that I am completely miserable. 

[Retroman]

I would say you are not building an engine for idle speed.

 

The VP3 has decent idle and is usable in traffic. You could specify a wider LSA [lobe separation angle] of 109 /110

 

That will reduce overlap [inlet and exhaust valves open together]

 

And time it in 4 - 5 degrees advanced both would help the lower end too.

 

By doing that you will have a good compromise on the idle speed and bottom end running

 

and still have plenty of go under the right foot...you should then have some real grin factor

 

That said a VP7 or Evolution 001 are not disappointing, and may well do the job

 

Are you building the engine yourself ?

[jeffster06]

You're talking about the cam timing correct? Never did find the VP7 (or 10) on the apt site, it is very clunky.

I saw the evolution001 description sounds good, and the classic mini diy guy ran one (was debating on asking him how he liked it)

Yes, I am building this myself, this is actually my first time building an engine (if it wasnt too obvious).

[DeadSquare]

Still working the details/budget. I am waiting on my first round of parts to bring the machine shop. I went with omega +40 pistons (machine shop said I needed to go 40 over) with a 6.5cc dish, 1.40" valves, 1.157" exhaust, dual springs from mini spares, and alloy retainers. 

 

Still debating on the cam, I like the idea of the scatter but worry it might be too much of a pain on the low end, also the tuning end of things (actually thats a fear all around). Been leaning towards maybe going a little milder. 

 

My goal is something fun in the mountains but I also don't want to get into a situation where if I do decide to drive to work or get stuck in traffic that I am completely miserable. 

 

If you are going to drive on the road, you are not going to notice any benefit from a 'scatter cam'.

 

With a plus .040" 1300 engine, go for something that gives you as broad a band of torque as you can get.

 

It is torque that give acceleration, not a peak brake horsepower, for which you need 6 or 8 gears to keep it in the narrow power band, like a racing car.

[Retroman]

https://www.minispar...98.aspx|Back to

 

 

If you are going to drive on the road, you are not going to notice any benefit from a 'scatter cam'.

 

With a plus .040" 1300 engine, go for something that gives you as broad a band of torque as you can get.

 

It is torque that give acceleration, not a peak brake horsepower, for which you need 6 or 8 gears to keep it in the narrow power band, like a racing car.

 

 

  The Scatter VP3 is a more drivable that's the whole point

 

By scattering the timing on relatively short period high lift cam it produces more torque

 

Vizard did over 11000 dyno pulls developing the scatter cams,  they reduce cammyness and develop more torque than a coventional cam of the same timing and work even better in bigger cc motors, for a more streetable car.

 

A SPVP3 in an A series is a tremendous cam with bags of torque and will embarrass most modern cars on the road

 

even with 4 gears on the twister hill roads its seriously good fun, pull from 30mph in 4th too.

 

We are not talking about a big duration cam

[Chris.Williams]

You're talking about the cam timing correct? Never did find the VP7 (or 10) on the apt site, it is very clunky.

I saw the evolution001 description sounds good, and the classic mini diy guy ran one (was debating on asking him how he liked it)

Yes, I am building this myself, this is actually my first time building an engine (if it wasnt too obvious).

I run an Evo1 cam, very nice road cam, not to wild or tame, straight up the middle really.
Have since changed to forced induction, still use and love the Evo cam.
And as for the price ?

Edited by Chris.Williams, 04 December 2018 - 05:37 PM.

[jeffster06]

Did some debating and decided I would go with the evolution001 cam, it seems to be pretty balance from what I can find on it, I also got the dizzy retroman linked. I know somewhere down the line I will have the motor out again (full body resto) and figure if I want more at that time ill probably look towards the scatter cam. I am still trying to get used to owning a carb car and all the other quirks that come with the classics.

 

With that said I have a few more questions regarding the engine build and wanted to get your thoughts on it. 

I am getting the minispares competition head bolts and arp con rod bolts. Should I be replacing the main bearing cap bolts as well? The machine shop has the cap bolts and I plan on asking them to look them over to see if they are ok. 

 

I know about having to measure the idle thrust end play and the primary gear end play, what other things should I be checking while reassembling? 

 

Finally, any other input you guys have would be great. 

[Retroman]

Assuming the main cap bolts check out OK they will be fine

 

Sound like you have the spec pretty well covered

 

Make sure you use some good new cam followers and a high quality timing chain

 

Crank end float is another to measure and there is a long list of things which will have been covered somewhere on TMF

 

Compression will be one to look at, you may end up skimming the block and or the head, needs a dry build and measure first