11 replies to this topic

[mk=john]

Hello
My engine is a 998 cooper engine which has been rebuilt and done 1500 miles since rebuild.
Yesterday I noticed a patch of oil under my car about 4 inches diameter under the car (it seems to have come from the area where the flywheel housing bolts to the crank case).

On further inspection, the bottom of the joint is wet with oil. Could this be a gasket problem? Or, could the retaining nuts have worked loose, and need tightening?

My main question is this: If I had to remove the clutch and flywheel housing to fit a new gasket, is it possible to remove the bell housing, and fywheel housing with the engine still in place?

Please bear in mind that I have never done anything like this before, so how easy or difficult is it to do and what problems would I likely be faced with?

Thanks
John

[ANDY J]

Hello
My engine is a 998 cooper engine which has been rebuilt and done 1500 miles since rebuild.
Yesterday I noticed a patch of oil under my car about 4 inches diameter under the car (it seems to have come from the area where the flywheel housing bolts to the crank case).

On further inspection, the bottom of the joint is wet with oil. Could this be a gasket problem? Or, could the retaining nuts have worked loose, and need tightening?

My main question is this: If I had to remove the clutch and flywheel housing to fit a new gasket, is it possible to remove the bell housing, and fywheel housing with the engine still in place?

Please bear in mind that I have never done anything like this before, so how easy or difficult is it to do and what problems would I likely be faced with?

Thanks
John

hi mate 1st are you sure its coming from the gasket and not the crank oil seal behind the clutch
and 2nd yes you can take the flywheel housing off the engine while its still in the car and as for difficulty it not that difficult to do just awkward and fiddly but depends on how your mechanics are?
HOPE IT HELPS

[TOMMO0302]

As above, technically should be easy enough, but some of the flywheel bell housing (wok) bolts are a PITA to get to...i had to make some very strange custom tools (like a spanner on the end of a load of wire etc) to get at them.

As Andy said, it could be the Oil Seal, either way your going to have to take the covers off and then it should be easy enough to tell. Have you noticed any clutch slip?

[topcat]

Probably easier to take the engine out. Make sure the oil is leaking from there. Quite often it can be leaking out the diff oil seal but it runs down and drips of the bottom of the engine. Clean it up well so you can see clearly where its coming from.

[Pooky]

Not sump plug? Oil can trail back down the engine from anywhere

[mk=john]

Hi
Thanks for the relpy. I will check exactly where the oil is coming from by cleaning the engine as much as possible, especially so I know if it is coming from the diff housing (and running to the bottom of the engine or not) . As for my mechanics, I have had no mechanical training on vehicles, so i am a little worried about doing this stuff.
How much would a garage charge for doing this stuff?
Cheers

[TOMMO0302]

Diagnose the cause first as this will make a big difference to how much you are likely to have to pay AND whether or not it would be feasible for you to do at home with no mechanical training. But the charge would be 98% labour so if your willing to give it a go you could save a lot

Edited by TOMMO0302, 16 October 2006 - 10:04 AM.

[The Matt]

To be honest, if it is the gasket that needs replacing, it is a hell of alot easier to do it with the enigne out IMHO.

I personally hate working on the floor, so I'd rather spend an hour poppin the engine out and have it on a bench to do the work. It can be done in place, but it aint the easiest way.

You have to support the engine from above, remove the engine mount, remove the slave cylinder, clutch cover, take the starter motor out, lock the flywheel in place, then remove the flywheel, then the transfer case, then you can get to the gasket, unless it is the crankshaft oil seal as said above, in which case you follow the steps until you get the flywheel off, then you can access the seal, which can be changed easily with a special tool.

As said above ^^^^^, it makes sense to be 100% certain about the leak before you do a strip down.

[mk=john]

Hi
Thanks for that. I will next clean up the area to see exactly where the oil is coing from, but on initial inspection, everywhere else was pretty dry except fpr the bottom nut of the flywheel housing (next to the block). Please bear in mind I am no mechanic, so is it just a case of following the Haynes manual?

Removing the engine really scares me!!
John

[The Matt]

Removing the engine isn't that big a task really, but it is my personal preference to work on the engine out of the car. If it is only leaking around the one bolt, then it does seem possible that there is a gasket issue there.

Have you tried to see if that bolt is tight? It may be that it has not been correctly tightened. It may be that the (EDIT) gasket is damaged around that bolt area.

Plus, where abouts do you live?

There may be someone off the forum who lives near you and would be willing to lend a helping hand in return for beer or fodder.

When you say the flywheel housing, do you mean the clutch cover (the roundish cover with the engine mounting bolted on the bottom) or do you mean the transfer case bit? In other words, the bit with a red blob on it, or the bit with a blue blob on it?

Edited by mini mad me, 16 October 2006 - 10:59 AM.

[mk=john]

It is the transfer case, it seems very wet around the bottom nut where it goes into the block. I will certainly try and tighten it to the correct torque setting (I think that is 18 lb ft).

I live in Milton Keynes by the way, anyone there you know who can help?

Cheers
John

[The Matt]

I live in Milton Keynes by the way, anyone there you know who can help?
Cheers
John

Fraid not, but someone else on here may live around there. I should have guessed by the MK in yer user name!