22 replies to this topic

[Martymini]

Mine was a seized master cylinder - although it had been parked up for a few years.
 
Try prying clutch arm, if that moves try the slave cylinder operates. If not open the bleed nipple and see if fluid comes out and pedal depressed.
 
If so it maybe a seized slave cylinder

Thanks. Getting some good tips now, cheers.

[Martymini]

ok so pedal moves a bit but what else does or doesn't that should?

Hi nicklouse,
 
Apart from an on going, minor oil leak all else seems fine. She starts ticks over and revs up as normal.

but what about the clutch? just the pedal moving only half way is only half a story.

Well yes. But I wanted to eliminate the easy fixes(if that makes sense) before I investigate further by removing the dash etc.
 
Apologies if im coming across as clueless but as I've said this is all new to me so my issues are probably bread and butter to the more experienced folk around here.
Thanks,
Barry

and I am asking you the basics. what happens when you press the pedal? what moves? what does not move if it should? without this info we can only guess.
 
a Haynes workshop manual is essential.
 
if you press the pedal and nothing move you have issues with the hydraulics.
if you press the pedal and things move and stop you have a mechanical issue.
 
stop nut not set to 6.5mm gap or the flywheel is falling off the crank.

I do apologise but as I've stated I'm clueless . What's basic to you is not basic to me, but I thank you for your patience.

When I press the clutch it barely moves. The only movement would be the normal play you would find in a functional pedal.
So going by your description above it's a hydraulics issue. Thank you.
Yes I have a Haynes manual.

[hunterg30]

Lubricate the arm on the bell housing where the throw out stop is. Then push the arm back towards the slave cylinder. This happened to some one I know a few weeks ago after being laid up for a few weeks

[jime17]

What everyone is Trying to establish is at which point the system is failing.

Could be at the pedal clevis pin. Could be the master cylinder could be the hose/pipe and so on and so forth.

If you open the slave cylinder bleed nipple and the pedal can then be pushed to the floor you can be fairly confident that the problem is downstream of there.

If not then it's between the pedal and the slave. You can eliminate components one by one.

I'd start with the throw out nuts as they're the simplest to eliminate.

Nick and the others are always answering my questions too. The more info on what's happening the better.

Edit to add... as per previous comment I've heard of plunger seizing too.

Edited by jime17, 29 January 2019 - 06:52 PM.

[hhhh]

The hose can fail internally and lock the pedal up without anything noticeable in its appearance. If opening the nipple makes no difference, it's likely the hose.

[Rorf]

Car has been sitting awhile, brake fluid probably hasn't been changed for many years so the likely scenario is a very rusted up slave cylinder and possibly a very rusted up clutch master cylinder. The braking system will most likely follow suit.

 

Many owners of vehicles are not aware that brake fluid in the clutch and brake circuits should be changed at least every two years especially in climates where the atmosphere is very wet.

 

Bleeding systems is a pain but much cheaper than replacing component parts all the time. 

[Martymini]

Thanks everyone for the words of wisdom, much appreciated.
Ive been studying the Haynes manual with all your posts at hand and things are starting to make sense.
As I've said I'll post back later in the week on my progress and if all else fails I'll find a decent mini specialist.

Thanks again!

[expat_cat]

Is this a verto clutch?  These stick all the time if left a while, and it's just the pivot where the arm goes through the cover.

It gives exactly these symptoms, but in this case the clutch is jammed disengaged.  An upward blow with a  hammer (may need a piece of wood or metal to help get to it) will free it.  Then some light lubrication on the pivot.