34 replies to this topic

[TheFabMini]

The plot thickens...

 

removed the accuspark, couldnt find an old set of points (recently moved house so things are a bit all over the place)

put the accuspark back in.. turned the key and it started right up for about 2 seconds and am now back to square 1 with no spark and the engine wont start...

 

the earth cable did get a bit of a warm feeling when cranking.. i wouldnt say hot but slightly warm if that means anything? (sorry my electronic and mechanical knowledge are minimal and I am learning as I go) 

[mk1leg]

test the condenser and the small earth cable under points

[TheFabMini]

test the condenser and the small earth cable under points

 

I have an electronic ignition on the car currently 

[Icey]

Have you checked the coil with a multi-meter yet? (as in, the resistance high and low side)

Edited by Icey, 19 May 2019 - 07:15 PM.

[TheFabMini]

Have you checked the coil with a multi-meter yet? (as in, the resistance high and low side)

Haven’t checked resistance just checked it was getting 12v with the ignition on.
Could you explain what and how to check the resistance and what sort of ohms readings I should be getting.
Like I said please forgive my lack of knowledge but until I have an issue to learn from I have 0 previous experience

[Its a min]

The plot thickens...

 

removed the accuspark, couldnt find an old set of points (recently moved house so things are a bit all over the place)

put the accuspark back in.. turned the key and it started right up for about 2 seconds and am now back to square 1 with no spark and the engine wont start...

 

the earth cable did get a bit of a warm feeling when cranking.. i wouldnt say hot but slightly warm if that means anything? (sorry my electronic and mechanical knowledge are minimal and I am learning as I go) 

 

It's normal for the earth cable to get a little warm when cranking so don't worry about that.

 

What year is your car and are you running on a ballast ignition?

[TheFabMini]

The plot thickens...

removed the accuspark, couldnt find an old set of points (recently moved house so things are a bit all over the place)
put the accuspark back in.. turned the key and it started right up for about 2 seconds and am now back to square 1 with no spark and the engine wont start...

the earth cable did get a bit of a warm feeling when cranking.. i wouldnt say hot but slightly warm if that means anything? (sorry my electronic and mechanical knowledge are minimal and I am learning as I go)

It's normal for the earth cable to get a little warm when cranking so don't worry about that.

What year is your car and are you running on a ballast ignition?

It’s a 1984 998 a+
I THINK it’s a ballast system but to be honest I’m not really sure.. is there a fools guide on how to tell?

[TheFabMini]

On the + side of the coil I have a brownish coloured wire connected and a (not by myself) cut and taped up yellowish cable not connected
On the - side it’s just black and white striped cable.

Does this seem alright/normal

 B923BA5D-A5EA-44AB-AB8B-D61E57B2BFF8.jpeg   37.96K   1 downloads

[Its a min]

On the + side of the coil I have a brownish coloured wire connected and a (not by myself) cut and taped up yellowish cable not connected
On the - side it’s just black and white striped cable.

Does this seem alright/normal

B923BA5D-A5EA-44AB-AB8B-D61E57B2BFF8.jpeg

 

That brownish coloured wire looks like it's the ballast pink/white wire. The yellow/white wire, if I remember rightly, should go from the solenoid to the starter (best check as there are plenty posts on here).

 

Those ballast wires can be notoriously unreliable and can cause a number of issues. I would suggest/recommend wiring a 12V feed (temporarily to check) direct to the coil '+' from the white wire at the fuse box. This will give you a constant 12V rather than just at turnover.

 

Good luck.

[Its a min]

This  is what I was looking for.

 

http://www.theminifo...d-12v-ignition/

 

So the yellow/white wire does go to the coil to supply a temporary 12v for turnover...I stand corrected but I did convert my Ballast to 12V some time ago.

Edited by Its a min, 20 May 2019 - 12:30 PM.

[Its a min]

I had a similar issue not long ago:

 

http://www.theminifo...rt/?hl= ballast

 

only difference is that I was getting a spark but some useful advice/help from on the guys on TMF that may help do some diagnosis.

 

Good luck and keep us updated.

[Icey]

 

Have you checked the coil with a multi-meter yet? (as in, the resistance high and low side)

Haven’t checked resistance just checked it was getting 12v with the ignition on.
Could you explain what and how to check the resistance and what sort of ohms readings I should be getting.
Like I said please forgive my lack of knowledge but until I have an issue to learn from I have 0 previous experience

 

 

Disconnect the dizzy, set your multimeter to read resistance and measure across the low-side terminals. You should see a few ohms of resistance depending on the coil type (1.5-3ohm from memory but double check).

 

Do the same from the poll of the high-side to the negative terminal (again, from memory that's the common terminal but double check). You should see resistance in the 10s of thousands of ohms (20-40k, something like that).

 

If either show as open (i.e. infinite) then you have a break in the associated coil. If either show very low to no resistance (i.e. shorted) then it's likely the coil has broken down (the lamination on the windings has melted/broken up).

[TheFabMini]

Have you checked the coil with a multi-meter yet? (as in, the resistance high and low side)

Haven’t checked resistance just checked it was getting 12v with the ignition on.
Could you explain what and how to check the resistance and what sort of ohms readings I should be getting.
Like I said please forgive my lack of knowledge but until I have an issue to learn from I have 0 previous experience

Disconnect the dizzy, set your multimeter to read resistance and measure across the low-side terminals. You should see a few ohms of resistance depending on the coil type (1.5-3ohm from memory but double check).

Do the same from the poll of the high-side to the negative terminal (again, from memory that's the common terminal but double check). You should see resistance in the 10s of thousands of ohms (20-40k, something like that).

If either show as open (i.e. infinite) then you have a break in the associated coil. If either show very low to no resistance (i.e. shorted) then it's likely the coil has broken down (the lamination on the windings has melted/broken up).

+ to - ohms reading was 2.6
The other reading (if I did it correctly) I just got 1 so I’m guessing open circuit

[TheFabMini]

took the coil off and now the reading between + and - is around 1.7 ohms

 

So assuming the coil is knackered and needs replacing... is there any issues with my wiring?

when i purchased the mini a couple of years ago it was a non runner and apart from fitting the electronic ignition and a couple of service parts i havent messed about with the wiring and have just taken off and refitted what was already there...

 

the taped up yellow and white wire.. should that be connected to something/removed? its never been connected and i was driving the car most of last year without issue but has that got something to do with the coil breaking?

 

im supposed to be driving a brides mother to the church in a couple of weeks so i want to feel semi confident that the car will not ruin a strangers wedding day when im sat at the side of the road explaining to the brides mother that my ballast cable is ruined and asking her to go on theminiforum and google answers 

[TheFabMini]

This  is what I was looking for.

 

http://www.theminifo...d-12v-ignition/

 

So the yellow/white wire does go to the coil to supply a temporary 12v for turnover...I stand corrected but I did convert my Ballast to 12V some time ago.

 

 

this looks simple enough.. so remove the 2 wires currently going to my coil and assuming i purchase a standard 12v coil run a cable from fuse point 1 to the coil and then ill have a non ballasted coil set up?

if this hasnt already been done one way or another.. the coil does show as having 12V on the + side when i turn the ignition on but it may well be a 9v coil which might help to explain it failing??

 

(if non of that made sense or was totally wrong i apologies but i am typing as i think)