Is it possible that the clutch rubbers have turned around and so its pushing the wrong way hence the fluid coming out of the top?

Clutch Won't Engage Despite Much Work
#16
Posted 03 July 2019 - 06:52 PM
#17
Posted 03 July 2019 - 07:30 PM
that's very true, but the post simply reads that increasing the throw will solve the problem.
You and i may make use of the workshop manuals when working on the car, but i think there's others out there who don't for one reason or another
#18
Posted 04 July 2019 - 06:24 AM
It’s just 3 new bits of rubber and a bit of time to clean and check it all

Another thing to check if you’ve replaced the slave cylinder is the seal spreader or “cup filler”. I’ve heard new ones have less substantial ones than stock and this might cause issues in the slave. It keeps the seal right up against the walls of the bore.

It’s the part in the spring here:

Edited by timmy850, 04 July 2019 - 06:40 AM.
#19
Posted 04 July 2019 - 01:15 PM
I have repaired clutch and brake cylinders in the past, but they never seemed to last very long.
I always fit new now.
Mind you, I had a new clutch Master Cylinder fail after only 1000 miles, so you never can tell. Still it makes life fun, doesn't it?
#20
Posted 04 July 2019 - 01:47 PM
If the clutch master is 40 years old I'd replace it on general principle.....
Check that clutch arm again, at the ball end or fit a new one.
Make sure the stop nuts are not screwed on too far, limiting the clutch arm movement.
#21
Posted 04 July 2019 - 03:42 PM
be careful you don't change parts until it works, does it go into gear with the engine not running? as mentioned whats the arm travel? get someone to sit in the car and measure how far the arm moves when the clutch is operated it needs to be half an inch, check the clutch adjustment i.e arm slack, arm movement etc. Cooperman has an excellent guide posted on the site.
for my two cents dont go bending the arm or welding bits on its just a bodge, it can work properly if set right, good luck
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