One Carb Or Two?
Posted 30 August 2019 - 05:07 PM
Its called leverage - look at the ratios, they are very high so the slightest wear on the ball or pivots has a major knock on effect. One of the many quirks of a mini.
But go ahead and install an extension rod and heat and bend the clutch arm - it is a bodge and will work for a while and as they say - what ever floats your boat 
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 30 August 2019 - 09:47 PM
OK, Rorf so what do you think is wrong that he can fix? All new stuff, every bit of it, all correct parts yet it has this symptom. Lengthening the push rod moves the piston back down into the cup where it can work properly - as long as the stop nuts are set correctly it won't damage the crank.
Edited by Magneto, 30 August 2019 - 09:48 PM.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 30 August 2019 - 10:02 PM
Okay in an attempt to get the car driving this week I'm failing miserably.
Next stump... The clutch. It won't disengage. I've tried rebleeding, I've set the arm up against the stop as per instructions and I've wound the overthrow stops out quite far for now.
Something that has struck me is that the arm might be starting too far away from the slave cylinder to begin with. Meaning I don't have enough movement left to actually press the clutch. Perhaps I've installed the clutch wrong inside the casing...
Here's a picture with measurements of how far away the arm is
https://flic.kr/p/2h7dfe2
Something else I've noticed is that if I take away the little stop bolt In the case and allow the arm as close in to the slave as it can go, attach springs etc the clutch pedal operates fine. If I remove the spring the pedal goes solid and you can press it with no movement in the slave. If I then put the little bolt in and adjust the arm to take out the slop, then attach the spring etc etc the pedal won't move.
Help much appreciated.
ok lets start again. put the pin back in the end of the arm. wind the AF 7/16 bolt back in to the wok. (dont forget to wind the nut off) it just looks like you have it too far out to start with. so with the bolt out of the way and the stop nuts also back out of the way. the arm should really sit way further towards the wok. you then pull the arm away from the wok so the play has gone and then set the clearance to circa 15-20thou. if gently pressure on the arm is giving you that then you have some serious issue in the wok allowing things to move too far.
do we have a pic of the inside of the wok? release bearing etc.
..is NOT a girl!
Posted 31 August 2019 - 03:06 PM
I think the drive straps can matter, not as a strap but as packing that moves the pressure plate closer to the release bearing. Even so, wear on the ball and pivots are much more likely if it's a standard clutch.
The "find" looks like a bit of Verto release bearing. Out of curiosity what does the bearing end of the plunger look like - is there a groove?
Up Into Fourth
Posted 01 September 2019 - 09:17 AM
Super Mini Mad
Posted 04 September 2019 - 11:22 PM
Okay, i have it disengaging. Replaced the pin between the pedal and the master cylinder this took out almost all the slop. I then bought a new arm, the old one was definitely bent and worn so that also made a difference. Then rebled the system, its not perfect but i have gears and a working clutch. I won't be surprised if the master cylinder and slave require replacement so i will do this for peace of mind over winter.
Cheers for all the help.
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