22 replies to this topic

[Pops_Guild]

And in case anyone is interested.

with regards to getting the longer 3x ARP studs for JDM Minis, ARP were very helpful but in order to get pricing down to “sensible” figures (still $12-16 each stud) would have to order in a big volume...50 sets (150 studs)!

There’s been some interest from messages to me but not yet near that sort of number so it looks like a full ARP studs set for original 90s Rover JDM Minis will have to remain a pipe dream.

[GraemeC]

If the studs are a concern (they could have previously been over torqued and damaged) then just replace with standard ones.

The extra long ones are available:

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

[hungdynasty]

 

Pops, what year is your JDM?

For info, my 1998 JDM is based on an MPi block and has "normal" head stud sizes.

Stu.

Stu, its registered 1/1/97 but it’s a 96 built Cooper (C35 LE). From what I know all JDM C35s were also MPi block based.

So you have the coil bracket and high mounted alternator too but on standard studs? I checked if I could do that but there isn’t enough thread for the alternator bracket

 

 

My 98 JDM MPI block, it seems all studs are the same

[Pops_Guild]

 

 

Pops, what year is your JDM?

For info, my 1998 JDM is based on an MPi block and has "normal" head stud sizes.

Stu.

Stu, its registered 1/1/97 but it’s a 96 built Cooper (C35 LE). From what I know all JDM C35s were also MPi block based.

So you have the coil bracket and high mounted alternator too but on standard studs? I checked if I could do that but there isn’t enough thread for the alternator bracket

 

 

My 98 JDM MPI block, it seems all studs are the same

 

 

Cool. Yeah you have a coil pack (so no need for the coil bracket) and late-type alternator, looks like that hangs differently to mine.

 

Attached a few pic's from during my rebuild which shows why mine has the longer studs.

Attached Files

•  altbracket.jpg   57.85K   2 downloads
•  studs2.jpg   67.78K   2 downloads

[Bobbins]

My '98 JDM is the same format as hungdynasty. By then it would appear they were very much more Mpi based, I guess that was what was available in the Rover parts bin!

[Pops_Guild]

I still haven't managed to get to the point where I can check anything but I've been doing a bunch of thinking :)

 

I am going to replace the rocker set as the original ones need some attention. I might refurb them or I might just go for an MED 1.3 set, Father Xmas gave me some money ;). Regardless I was going to drain the system down to get the rocker set off and I'll to loosen the head nuts as part of that. 

 

At that point I'll check that all the studs are hand-tight/pinched down but (and this is the reason for the post) at this point, is it possible or sensible to pull and replace engine studs without removing the head and gasket?

 

As I'm still suspicious of at the front centre stud, am considering the merits replacing each of the front studs one at a time but if the view here is that it'll likely mess things up and it wont go well then I'll take the head off again.

 

thoughts?

[nicklouse]

Studs are not stretch studs so have no need to be replaced. The center one is a slip fit in the head while the rest are a loser fit to locate the head correctly.

 

re changing the studs while not removing the head and gasket is pointless. It will not fix or change anything.

 

head off clean and inspect and rectify.

[Pops_Guild]

Studs are not stretch studs so have no need to be replaced. The center one is a slip fit in the head while the rest are a loser fit to locate the head correctly.

 

re changing the studs while not removing the head and gasket is pointless. It will not fix or change anything.

 

head off clean and inspect and rectify.

 

Thanks Nick. That's how I thought it would be but always good to ask. 

 

I did go round the head today to check that all was torqued correctly, I did this initially with my old (30years +) Draper torque wrench and all was fine, torque wrench clicked on each of the 9 but I then went round again with my brand new Wera torque wrench and all 9 needed more. So it appears the route-cause of this might be my old torque wrench...I guess I'll see when I get it out again for a drive.

 

If it still does it the head'll come off and around we go again :)