41 replies to this topic

[OzOAP]

You could have it inspected/stripped by a 3rd party and take it from there with the engine builder.
You both have to agree on who that 3rd party is.

[Minigman]

You could have it inspected/stripped by a 3rd party and take it from there with the engine builder.
You both have to agree on who that 3rd party is.

Thanks for the pointer OZ. I think by the time I found someone, paid them etc. and negotiated the fix I may as well do it myself. It’s a lesson learned - never trust anyone! I’m fast running out of Devon based companies who are knowledgable enough or can be bothered to do a job properly. It’s not the first Devon built engine that’s been a disappointment.

[Cooperman]

The first thing is to get the engine out and off of the gearbox. Take the head off and then strip it all piece by piece.
Inspect each part as you do it and photograph your progress and findings.
Once you have done that you can come back here with your findings, w can ask any appropriate questions and help you form a realistic plan to resolve the problems.
Don't worry too much. It'll all come right.

[Earwax]

Before taking it apart you need to contact the builder and show him the bearings etc, and then ask what he is going to do.. 

 

The builder may acknowledge this build has gone horribly wrong and genuinely want to rectify it. At this point in time a complete check and rebuild is a necessity. Best of luck

Edited by Earwax, 10 February 2020 - 05:24 AM.

[Minigman]

So the culprit has been found.

Unfortunately it’s taken out the gearbox casing and transfer case too and the idler gear shaft is heavily scored so that’s scrap too.

Checking the rest of the engine over - one scary moment was when I tried to turn the engine to TDC and found the engine locked solid. My heart sank, it can’t be seized surely! It wasn’t the engine mount adaptor bolt was in too far and jammed against the crankshaft - School Boy error no1.

Anyway, the end float was somewhere around 4 thou. Haynes state 2 thou so there’s some slight play there. Is this something I should be concerned about?

Everything turns over freely so I’m going to get the gearbox sorted, replace the transfer case and idler gear and go for it. Hopefully no swarf is trapped anywhere and it goes ok.

Any thoughts or observations please?  06860822-20CA-40B2-BFFA-19AD5A6FF2FC.png   261.84K   2 downloads

Edited by Minigman, 15 February 2020 - 07:55 PM.

[nicklouse]

What make bearing was it. There have been issues with some.

[Minigman]

What make bearing was it. There have been issues with some.

I don’t know as it wa installed by the engine builder but I would assume minispares as that’s where quite a bit of his stuff is bought from.

Edited by Minigman, 15 February 2020 - 07:38 PM.

[KTS]

I would be stripping the block, inspecting the mains and big end bearings and journals for any damage from all that metal that's been in the oil and thoroughly cleaning it all before building it up again. Likewise for the oil pump.

[Spider]

Hard to say from that why it went.

 

Any photos of the shaft on the gear ?

 

As KTS suggests, I'd suggest lifting the Main Caps and checking these Bearings. If they are OK, then the others will be fine as these are the first fed and in order for the Oil to get to all other Bearings it has to come through these first.

 

I'd also replace the Oil Pump.

[Minigman]

I’ve taken the main cap off and the bearing is like new.

I’ll get a pic of the idler gear shaft tomorrow but it is heavily scored and definitely needs replacing.

The oil pump is already on the parts list.

[BaronVonchesto]

I would be stripping the block, inspecting the mains and big end bearings and journals for any damage from all that metal that's been in the oil and thoroughly cleaning it all before building it up again. Likewise for the oil pump.

I second this. your mains or bigend caps may be warped slightly from the impact when something broke.

[gazza82]

And judging from other posts on this forum, 4 thou end float is fine.