17 replies to this topic

[maystro]

Guys my moke sounds like the engine is going to fall out when ever I press the accelartor pedal. The top stabiliser bar is secure. The gearshift lever is really rocking around too. Any ideas?

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

Have you checked the engine mounts?

[Spider]

What type of Moke and Year Model do you have ?

[maystro]

Mate my Moke is a standard 998 1981 model.

[Spider]

Mate my Moke is a standard 998 1981 model.

 

A common issue on these is the Left Hand Upper Mount, the one near the Radiator and in front of the Header Tank.

 

The Brackets and indeed the Body under them, where it bolts up to the Body is rather weak, due to all the bolt holes and the holes for the heater hoses, all being close together. I'd suggest taking that bracket off the body and seeing if the body and / or the bracket are cracked. Often, a suitable fix can be done if the body is cracked, without welding if this is the issue. You can make up some steel plates in 4 or 5 mm material to go on either side and about 15 mm bigger than the area of the brackets and  the holes, then bolt it all back together. If the Bracket is broken, get in touch with Matt Read in Bissy, he'll have a replacement.

 

Also, check the engine mounts by jacking under the engine and seeing one is broken.

[maystro]

 

Mate my Moke is a standard 998 1981 model.

 

A common issue on these is the Left Hand Upper Mount, the one near the Radiator and in front of the Header Tank.

 

Mate you are spot on.

I just rocked the motor by hand and that bracket isn't even connected to the sub frame/ firewall.  The other side near the brake cylinder is fine except for totally clapped out bushes which don't exist anymore.  

I was thinking of ordering this bracket and obviously other bushes.  
https://minisport.co...et-radiator-end

 

I will need new bolts of course.  
My only concern is the state of the bulk head where the bracket secures too.  It looks pretty rusty.  Is there welded nuts on the inside of the bulkhead which I reckon would be rat ****?  
Thinking I might have to dolly up some brackets like you suggested.  I'm just a little confused how to make these?  Are you talking about 2 L shaped brackets which will bolt to the new bracket and bolt further down on the vertical face of the bulk head or flat and bolt to the top horizontal face of the bulk head?

My other question while I have the guru is can I can I get rid of all those heater hoses.  I live in North QLD  so obviously don't need them and if so do I need some blanking plates or other gear?

Cheers mate 

[Spider]

I didn't know Mini Sport had those Brackets, but there you go.

 

It is common for the bodywork under the bracket to crack between the heater hoses, but really, that doesn't do much, so I wouldn't loose too much sleep over that.

 

The plates I mentioned, you could make as a L piece(s) if you are handy with some fabrication work.

 

The nuts are loose, ie, not welded in.

 

I do my own home brew on them. They are a fiddle to make but work well.

 

In regards to the heater hoses, well,,,,, it's like this,,,,,

 

Yours being an 1981 model needs to comply with ADR 15 (only been through all this a few days ago!). In short, that refers to a Windscreen Demister.

 

Having said that, many in your part of the world remove the heater (and demister), but if you do, just be aware it's not exactly 'kosher'. You could fit an electric demister, there's a few on the market these days.

[maystro]

Ok thanks mate for the good oil.  I have some good contacts that can fabricate anything up for a carton  

I'm thinking I should keep the heater in tact since this Moke is a 1 owner  Dec 1981 model.  My Dad bought it brand new.  

[maystro]

Hey Spider,  it was probably about 15 years ago I dropped in a upgraded motor and because it had a big cam, I think it was a Kent 286, I decided to use bottom engine mounts which had a bolt through them to make them semi solid.  Do these exist or did I imagine them?  I def didn't use solid mounts.  
I was thinking this is why my top stabiliser bar mounts have copped a hammering?  

Which leads me onto my other question.  The left top stabiliser bracket looks pretty good except for the 3 bolts which are loose because it looks like there is some kind of gasket between the bulk head and the bracket which has totally disintegrated.  Is this gasket a part you can buy or is it a custom job?
Also looking at those 3 bolts which secure this bracket which float around like you said look like a real ******* to un do because they will be seized for sure.  Love the little pokey hole Leyland made for us to access these nuts.
Any tips mate? 

[maystro]

Does this look worse than normal damage to the bulk head where the passenger side stabiliser attaches?  

Should I cut the whole section out and re weld a new flat piece in or is it still salvageable  by bolting in an extended flat peice of metal?

 

Problem is my Moke is going at the moment so can't get it to the welder.  

 

Thanks   damaged firewall.jpg   46.58K   5 downloads

[Spider]

Does this look worse than normal damage to the bulk head where the passenger side stabiliser attaches?  

Should I cut the whole section out and re weld a new flat piece in or is it still salvageable  by bolting in an extended flat peice of metal?

 

Problem is my Moke is going at the moment so can't get it to the welder.  

 

Thanks

 

 

You can go to the trouble of welding a new piece in and it will look better, but won't be any stronger for it.

I bolt up 5 mm plates both sides, the top one having a custom engine steady. I do this on every build - cracked or otherwise.

 

I'm not crazy about the lower steadies. They are too close to the engine mounts to be properly effective.

 

The standard idea is very good, it's just poorly executed.
 

[maystro]

Thanks Spider,

 

I don't suppose you have a pic of one of your jobs?

 

Cheers 

[maystro]

I bolt up 5 mm plates both sides, the top one having a custom engine steady. I do this on every build - cracked or otherwise.

 

5 mm mate, is that right?  That seems pretty thick.  Especially top and bottom.  

Do you try and bolt into the existing bulk head area where it is double layered.  I reckon I can get three bolts into that area using the existing outer holes.

 

Thanks

 

 

[Spider]

 

I bolt up 5 mm plates both sides, the top one having a custom engine steady. I do this on every build - cracked or otherwise.

 

5 mm mate, is that right?  That seems pretty thick.  Especially top and bottom.  

Do you try and bolt into the existing bulk head area where it is double layered.  I reckon I can get three bolts into that area using the existing outer holes.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

Yes, that's right.

The body breaks here due to flexing. The big holes don't help. The plate are thick enough and big enough to spread the load away from these holes for the heater hoses and also the opening on the inside that gives you access to the nuts.

[maystro]

Just a quick question. I'm putting my new recond 1100 head on my 998 a+. Is 50 lbs the right torque setting I should be doing?
Cheers Brad