19 replies to this topic

[sonscar]

You have to set the string to form a right angle box parallel to each other equidistant from the centreline of the car at the centre of the wheel height.With this done front and rear toe can accurately be set as direct readings from the string to the wheel with careful maths.I used this extensively with single seat race cars where it is easy to make a tool that fixed to the points on the centreline.Steve..

[Hedgey]

Right so I managed to check the rear toe with the drive over Gunson Trackrite today.

 

It gave a reading of 2.1° Toe in on the OS & 1.8° Toe in on the NS. I know its not the most accurate gauge but it enough to know I need shims or adjustable brackets 

[DeanP]

The shims, I've seen for sale at Minispares, save you making some anyway. Forgive me if I'm teaching you how to suck eggs, but I put the big rubber bush in backwards and it made my rear wheel alignment look wrong. you haven't got one a different way to the other either? Also I have found the brackets holding the radius arms in place, sometimes need a bit of persuasion to sit flat against the main subframe, sometimes people bolt the brackets with the holes not aligned thinking the bolt when tight will pull it square, but all it does is strips the thread in the captive nut. 

[Hedgey]

The shims, I've seen for sale at Minispares, save you making some anyway. Forgive me if I'm teaching you how to suck eggs, but I put the big rubber bush in backwards and it made my rear wheel alignment look wrong. you haven't got one a different way to the other either? Also I have found the brackets holding the radius arms in place, sometimes need a bit of persuasion to sit flat against the main subframe, sometimes people bolt the brackets with the holes not aligned thinking the bolt when tight will pull it square, but all it does is strips the thread in the captive nut. 

 

Thanks for the reply. I believe the rubber bushes were installed correctly as I researched which way to install them before hand. I will check about the brackets sitting flat though.

 

I have actually ordered some minispares adjustable rear camber brackets as I figured I might as well go for the 'optimal' settings if i'm paying for it to be set up by a professional.

I will manufacture the shims as I run the CAD & CNC department at work so makes sense. The minispares shims are also £2.40 per shim which adds up fast and i'm tight

[Vanman33]

Years ago I found a new Rover subframe on a Mini in a scrapyard.  Unfortunately someone had already had the radius arms away complete with the brackets.  Years later when my rear subframe on my much unloved van finally collapsed (yes, rusted & snapped clean in half on one side) I replaced it with the Rover subframe I had and the existing brackets from my old frame.  From being OK previously the toe and camber were all over the place so much so that it scrubbed the rear tyres and handled erratically - positive camber & too much toe in.  

 

I replaced the brackets with the adjustable camber & toe items from Minispares. With the brackets set in the 'nominal' position it was more or less correct for toe in.  From my experience it might not be your arms which are bent but the brackets might be out to the frame.