19 replies to this topic

[Algordo1100]

I'm at the end of my tether with the wandering around and imprecise steering of my Spi Equinox

Even though I'm skint, if it were not for the current situation I would dump it at a specialist anne say 'Fix please' then sell the Mrs' crap to pay.

I've overhauled the hubs, ball joints, bearings, track rods..No play. Tie bars ...done, no play...It has new cones, new shockies, bushes all checked and replaced where needed. It's only done 30k miles Ffs! Got to be tighter than new now! It's on standard ride height.. I've even solid mounted the subframe. Still goes like a drunkard when pushed.
All I can think is..

1. My method of tracking isn't good enough. I've tried to be as accurate as possible. I use great long clamps, string and a whole lot of trigonometry down to tenths of a mm.

2. Something isn't right despite my checking. Ie: new rack needed? 30k miles though??

3. The whole car is flexing too much and I need to get seem welding... But I've had minis back in the dim past so rusty the front panel moved enough to emulate steering controllers headlamps! Yet they still drove straighter than this one.

What am I missing? Is she twisted? Should I wait for a laser alignment to tell me so then cry?

It's got to be something I've overlooked.

,:/

[Cooperman]

Have you checked the rear toe-in.
The rear wheels MUST have slight toe in or the car will be unstable in a straight line.
Set it using shims or by slotting the holes in the radius arm shaft outer brackets and welding on large penny-washers to hold the setting.
Toe-in should be 1/8" to 3/16".

[GraemeC]

Whereabouts are you?

[nicklouse]

What is adjustable in the suspension? List everything that is.

 

i will start with the steering rack.

 

what else?

[Algordo1100]

Have you checked the rear toe-in.
The rear wheels MUST have slight toe in or the car will be unstable in a straight line.
Set it using shims or by slotting the holes in the radius arm shaft outer brackets and welding on large penny-washers to hold the setting.
Toe-in should be 1/8" to 3/16".

Thanks :)

Hmmm. Maybe so .
The rear radius arms are original and untouched standard, so they have the usual positive camber.(thanks Rover!) The near side had almost imperceptible play which dissappeared on greasing but still shows a very slight difference on camber. A mm or so at the rim (12 inch) when compared to the offside. Could some undetectable play at that rear corner be causing this? I have been putting off a refurbish of the radius arms as the bracket bolts WILL shear off. Not if! Ha.

[imack]

Steering rack u bolts tight?
Steering column pinch bolt tight?
Steering arms tight/doweled to hub carriers?

[Algordo1100]

Whereabouts are you?

Just east of Leeds, West Yorkshire

[Algordo1100]

What is adjustable in the suspension? List everything that is.

i will start with the steering rack.

what else?

Hi los.
That's it

[nicklouse]

 

What is adjustable in the suspension? List everything that is.

i will start with the steering rack.

what else?

Hi los.
That's it

 

Right then you need to start with the corner weights. Setting the ride height is only half of it it might look level but if you have two wheels putting more pressure on the ground than the other diagonally opposite wheels it will feel like a bag of crap and dart all over the place.

[Algordo1100]

Steering rack u bolts tight?
Steering column pinch bolt tight?
Steering arms tight/doweled to hub carriers?

Should* be

[GraemeC]

 

Whereabouts are you?

Just east of Leeds, West Yorkshire

 

 

I bit far from me, otherwise I’d have taken a look for you.

Edited by GraemeC, 24 April 2020 - 09:17 PM.

[Algordo1100]

What is adjustable in the suspension? List everything that is.

i will start with the steering rack.

what else?

Hi los.
That's it

Right then you need to start with the corner weights. Setting the ride height is only half of it it might look level but if you have two wheels putting more pressure on the ground than the other diagonally opposite wheels it will feel like a bag of crap and dart all over the place.

Undertood :)

But I'm not sure how I can check with my limited tools/ resources.

I'll admit, all I'm doing currently is measuring tire/ arch gap

[cal844]

Check the steering rack for play, the same test as checking Track Rod Ends, also check rear wheel bearings and radius arm bolts are tight.

It might be worth going over the entire car with the spanners

[spraybeater]

If you're struggling! and due to the current situation with travel ect Acespeed in Shipley would be

a good bet not to far for you to travel.

[Cooperman]

I still suspect the rear toe-in. I've seen that several times when the steering seemed poor and slightly unstable. It MUST have a slight toe-IN on the rear. Personally I would check that before doing anything else.

At the same time you could set the rear camber to between zero and -0.5 degrees negative. Once the rear is correct you can then start to really investigate the front if doing the rear doesn't solve the problem.

I know where I would put my money  .

As 'spraybeater' so rightly says, 'Ace' Harrison could soon sort it out for you. He is a great guy and knows his Minis and other historic cars very well. A really helpful chap as well/