122 replies to this topic

[Tornado99]

I did shimming on one top side ball joint lastnight, first experience. Using a digital vernier caliper helped me zeroing in on shim thickness needed. After about six or seven goes settled on what seemed a good stiffness level. I did note that this joint shows looseness near its centerpoint and gets quite stiff as it moves away from center area. Does that indicate a worn out ball and socket?
Anyhow, was going to do the lower on that hub but found it to be at a descent stiffness already so just left it as it was. Then I recalled the spring loading that side has. Does that mean it could actually be too loose on the car?

Got a quote from local mini specialist Steveston Motor Co for doing all four joints, and it came to roughly $80 less than buying a set of the Japan sourced non serviceable type. I think I will get an order of them and be done with these things.
I used a 1 1/2" ring spanner to remove and refit the joint, just went by feel. Came off with a good pull and went back with similar.

[paulrockliffe]

I fitted mine with the socket the other night, dead simple when you know the dust covers are supposed to come off.

 

I bought some of the MiniSpares heavy duty track-rod ends, they have the same blue clips.  Are they from the same source does anyone know?

[Spider]

I did shimming on one top side ball joint lastnight, first experience. Using a digital vernier caliper helped me zeroing in on shim thickness needed. After about six or seven goes settled on what seemed a good stiffness level. I did note that this joint shows looseness near its centerpoint and gets quite stiff as it moves away from center area. Does that indicate a worn out ball and socket?
Anyhow, was going to do the lower on that hub but found it to be at a descent stiffness already so just left it as it was. Then I recalled the spring loading that side has. Does that mean it could actually be too loose on the car?

Got a quote from local mini specialist Steveston Motor Co for doing all four joints, and it came to roughly $80 less than buying a set of the Japan sourced non serviceable type. I think I will get an order of them and be done with these things.
I used a 1 1/2" ring spanner to remove and refit the joint, just went by feel. Came off with a good pull and went back with similar.

 

The factory advice when fitting up joints is that they should not be tight at all their words are " No Nip to 0.003" end play " . I'd agree with that advice. With the Lower Joint, that have the spring under the seat, the method there is to initially fit it up without the Spring to sort the Shiming, then take it apart, fit the Spring and do it up again. When doing these, I mark the location of the Cap before taking them apart to fit the Spring, so I can get it back together without loading the Pin.

 

It does sound like your Top Joint may have some wear in it, though I have found on some new joints, the shape of Ball of the Pin isn't always spot on. If you feel any 'steps' or sudden tightness when moving the Pin, then it is likely worn. Continuing to use it, especially after re-shimming, is asking for a broken joint. Once they wear, they must be replaced, the shims are not there for wear adjustment, only initial setting.

 

When assessing the Lower Joint, it is not easy to tell if there's some play in them, ideally you need to have someone rocking the wheel with another looking carefully at the joint and it needs to be done at a few angles of the suspension, as when it's jack up, with the wheels in the Air, that's not a natural driving position for them and so, not where they'll likely be worn. Ideally, the lower arm needs to be jacked up to check it.