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Torque Falling Off Of 1098


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#16 IronmanG

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Posted 04 May 2020 - 07:14 PM

[quote name="DeadSquare" post="3646592" timestamp="1588598095"]<p>
They used to say of the 1100 engine "All talk and no go".

I have to say my mates 1100 use to absolutely spank my 998. His was standard mine had a couple of tiny mods. Once we were out of first gear he just drove off

#17 DeadSquare

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Posted 04 May 2020 - 07:25 PM

His 1100 was about 10% larger than yours, and it is Torque that gives you acceleration, not BHP.



#18 IronmanG

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Posted 04 May 2020 - 08:28 PM

His 1100 was about 10% larger than yours, and it is Torque that gives you acceleration, not BHP.


Cant disagree with that, that's for certain

#19 Minigman

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Posted 04 May 2020 - 10:44 PM

A 'stock' 1100 is better than that.

2 questions here;-

While it's a standard build (and I really get that), was the cam checked for wear and timed in ?

What's the CR ?

OK, sorry, that's 3,,,

Here's a set of curves from a stock 1100 engine;-

P2DcMgT.jpg

The honest answer is I hope so although I have my doubts. It was built by Paul Inch in Devon. The communication was awful and I didn’t even get a receipt or confirmation of what was done to it. I rang him loads of times to get some stuff back which he took off the car but he never once returned my calls. I suspect it’s a ‘turd’ to be honest. As the car is currently stripped down having loads of panel work I’m going to rebuild the engine myself. The aim will still be to keep it stealth though.

Edited by Minigman, 04 May 2020 - 10:45 PM.


#20 Minigman

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Posted 04 May 2020 - 10:47 PM

What size was the carb and exhaust on the standard 1100?

#21 Spider

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Posted 04 May 2020 - 11:24 PM

What size was the carb and exhaust on the standard 1100?

 

1 x 1-1/4" SU and 1-1/4" Exhaust Pipe.



#22 timmy850

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Posted 05 May 2020 - 07:51 AM

What distributor/timing curve do you have?

You could also consider cutting the manifold apart, using the HS2 intake with a little porting and get a larger diameter cast exhaust piece from a later car?

Splitting the manifold alone showed improvements in the yellow book

#23 luismx123

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Posted 05 May 2020 - 08:11 AM

 

You could try vizarding the carb to try and get some more flow from it. Not sure how good the standard air filter and elbow are though.


I had thought about that and I started to talk to Andrew (Retroman) but he’s since disappeared. I’m running a K&N filter already and thought about adding some discreet additional holes. I’ve been reliably informed that the HS2 will go to about 60bhp as used on the Austin A60. The general feeling was that a Vizarded carb was harder to set up as the air/fuel mix was harder to achieve mid throttle.

 

definitely vizard the carb if you want more umpffff. I did that to my hs4 on my 998 before I upgraded it and i felt a difference back then already on a stock 998 block with a stage1 kit. Ofcourse the settings were off afterwards but thats all fixable/doable. He states its like going up a size of the carb, so properly flowing the hs4/hif38 is like going up to a hif44...



#24 Spider

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Posted 05 May 2020 - 08:45 AM

MMmmm,,,,,unless you're really locked in to a particular sized SU, I'd caution 'Vizarding' (I actually think it was Clive Trickey who first published details of ding these mods) or 'gas flowing' them.

 

It was a common modification to meet certain classes of Racing where the original carb had to be retained. That's fine for the track where it's 10 / 10ths all the time.

 

Doing these modifications upsets the 'balance' of the carb and while it can then be tuned for all out flow at lower flow rates, like, on the cruise, they then can be very fickle to tune, if they can be done at all.

Honestly, for the road, you'd just go up a Carb size.



#25 luismx123

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Posted 05 May 2020 - 11:12 AM

MMmmm,,,,,unless you're really locked in to a particular sized SU, I'd caution 'Vizarding' (I actually think it was Clive Trickey who first published details of ding these mods) or 'gas flowing' them.

 

It was a common modification to meet certain classes of Racing where the original carb had to be retained. That's fine for the track where it's 10 / 10ths all the time.

 

Doing these modifications upsets the 'balance' of the carb and while it can then be tuned for all out flow at lower flow rates, like, on the cruise, they then can be very fickle to tune, if they can be done at all.

Honestly, for the road, you'd just go up a Carb size.

I did all modifications except the chamber area belnding. 
Halved the spindle, cut all bolts and screws flat, chamfer the leading and trailing edges of the dashpot piston. I believe he states in his book that the rest of the modifications - like blending all the inner radius and squaring the bowl etc - are not suited to road application as, like you said, the balance is lost. The basic mods just streamline everything which was quite a worthwhile "tune" imo. 



#26 Minigman

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Posted 05 May 2020 - 12:01 PM


What size was the carb and exhaust on the standard 1100?


1 x 1-1/4" SU and 1-1/4" Exhaust Pipe.

So same as the 850 basically.

I’m thinking the cam must be worn or been badly set up. When it came back from the builder it barley ran. He couldn’t wire positive earth and it was running so rich the bores were pretty much glazed by the time it got it the 60 miles home.

I don’t really want to use the HS4 and if the HS2 really is a big restriction then maybe twin HS2s are the way to go. If I do that I may as well do the cam, head, manifold and add a decent exhaust.

Thanks for posting up the standard RR graph. Makes interesting reading.

#27 whistler

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Posted 05 May 2020 - 01:22 PM

Twin SU's was a standard mod back then, Speedwell being the main or popular 'brand' I seem to remember, so having twins could be seen as period. Yours was before the Coopers but twins were still about. Transplanted from Sprite/midget likely sources (likely 1.25" SU's)

Just had a look at KC's site and twins would give you much better breathing for your engine.



#28 Minigman

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Posted 05 May 2020 - 03:47 PM

Twin SU's was a standard mod back then, Speedwell being the main or popular 'brand' I seem to remember, so having twins could be seen as period. Yours was before the Coopers but twins were still about. Transplanted from Sprite/midget likely sources (likely 1.25" SU's)
Just had a look at KC's site and twins would give you much better breathing for your engine.

Yes no doubt you’re right. I’d considered twin HS1s as the early 850 looking mod but they are worse than a single HS2. I think it’s a decision to keep the performance down whilst remaining stock looking or let rip with full mods. I think I have a set of twin hs2s in the loft so will dig them out.

Edited by Minigman, 05 May 2020 - 03:48 PM.


#29 Minigman

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Posted 11 May 2020 - 09:37 AM

Twin SU's was a standard mod back then, Speedwell being the main or popular 'brand' I seem to remember, so having twins could be seen as period. Yours was before the Coopers but twins were still about. Transplanted from Sprite/midget likely sources (likely 1.25" SU's)
Just had a look at KC's site and twins would give you much better breathing for your engine.


True. Id quite like a pair of H2s to be proper period. Look nice too.




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