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Can't Select A Gear... Sometimes?


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#1 R1cbm

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 10:07 AM

Had a search through to see if I can get to the bottom of this one, but struggling so thought I would ask.

 

82 City - just fitted a rebuilt MG Metro engine and box (refurbished by Guessworks) Clutch biting point was a bit low so I noticed the slave cylinder was not great condition and just swapped it.  Bit point is now nice. I'm currently running in the new engine and ironing out any little issues I spot.  

 

So, when cold, I can select all gears no problem. I've driven it probably 50 miles in different journeys and all gears work.  I put it into 2nd, with engine off, dropped clutch and tested it - clutch is nice and strong (also new).

 

When I tested it today the problem I sometimes get is that I just can't select a gear (as in any).  I am used to driving old cars, so tried blipping the throttle, and putting the clutch in and out to try again.  It literally feels like it's not engaging at all.....  I'm not sure where to start.  I think it must be something related to the selectors but when I refitted them - there wasn't from memory anything that needed adjusting as such... seemed to got together the same way it came apart?

 

Any ideas?



#2 Bradchap

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 12:53 PM

Can you select gears without the engine running??

#3 Ethel

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 12:58 PM

Guessworks supplied the box built up?

 

You could rule the clutch out by trying to select gears with the engine  turned off. It might put up a bit of a fight, but once you've got a gear meshed it should pop in & out almost as freely as normal.

 

Does the stick & gate pattern feel normal? It the gearbox that provides that. The rod change selector itself is just a ball on a stick that'll wobble about in all directions if disconnected - could be a loose roll pin on the coupling to the gearbox hitting the case.



#4 R1cbm

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 01:51 PM

Just got in her now. Goes into gear fine without engine running.

Yes. Built and supplied.

#5 R1cbm

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 01:56 PM

All feels normal.

#6 Bradchap

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 01:56 PM

If it goes into all gears without the engine running it's probably a clutch issue

#7 R1cbm

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 03:30 PM

Wonder if the master cylinder is stuffed ?

#8 DB1380

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 04:15 PM

Have you checked to see if the Clutch Lever Arm is worn or bent at the Ball end and that the Clutch is adjusted correctly.

Makes a big big difference to the operation of said Clutch.

 

DB.



#9 R1cbm

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 06:43 AM

It’s a verto one so not sure what adjustments are required? Will check arm for wear .

#10 Ethel

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 10:22 AM

Does the throwout stop touch the wok (clutch depressed)? If so, try backing it off to create a gap.

 

Also known flex in the slave cylinder bracket cause problems with Vertos, check the bolts.

 

 

You say the biting point is good, how did you decide that?



#11 bpirie1000

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 10:28 AM

Have you been under the car to explore the linkage and retaining bolt?

Park one wheel on the kerb and get a look if no jacking facilities...

Post a pic if your not sure..

good luck

#12 cal844

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 12:39 PM

It’s a verto one so not sure what adjustments are required? Will check arm for wear .


The inner of the two throw out nuts should have a gap of 6.5mm

#13 DB1380

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Posted 08 June 2020 - 07:31 PM

 

It’s a verto one so not sure what adjustments are required? Will check arm for wear .


The inner of the two throw out nuts should have a gap of 6.5mm

 

Cal, is that 6.5mm only for the Verto ? I set my pre-Verto with a 1/8" Drill Bit...



#14 R1cbm

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Posted 09 June 2020 - 09:10 AM

So, think I may be chasing a problem with air getting into the system somewhere...  When I started this project, the paint under the brake and clutch cylinder had lifted, so I stripped them and cleaned it up, repainted etc...  assuming that one of the two was leaking and killing the paint.  I noticed the brake cylinder needed new seals so replaced them.  Clutch cylinder looked ok..... 

 

Fast forward to today with new engine... the biting point was very low, which is why I changed the slave cylinder last weekend, and it moved to mid way and felt a lot better.  Checked it again today and it moved so I think we have a problem with the master cylinder or connecting pipes, which I have ordered new ones to replace them next weekend... joyful job to do.  Once I have done all this - will test again.  Appreciate the help..... hate brake fluid... 



#15 GraemeC

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Posted 09 June 2020 - 09:21 AM

 

 

It’s a verto one so not sure what adjustments are required? Will check arm for wear .


The inner of the two throw out nuts should have a gap of 6.5mm

 

Cal, is that 6.5mm only for the Verto ? I set my pre-Verto with a 1/8" Drill Bit...

 

 

6.5mm is for the Verto. 

There is a procedure for setting the throw out nuts on a pre-verto and it doesn't involve a drill bit of any size, or any set measurement.  Do a search - there's loads of info on here.






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