24 replies to this topic

[tomtic]

Another day, another problem, doh!

Finally got the K&N cone fitted with some persuasion, and the pertronix ignitor electronic ignition finally in, wired it into the harness to switched live.

It's a minispares stage 1, although I decided to choose my own parts.

Stainless RC40 Side Exit Backbox (2.25" tailpipe with 1.75" link pipe)
Stainless link pipe
Cooper Freeflow Manifold
Torquemaster Inlet Manifold
K&N Cone
AAU needle
Electronic Ignition (Pertronix Ignitor)

I also took the cylinder head off, cleaned it up, ground the valves back in, torqued up the head in the 2 stages in haynes in the order it says. Oiled the rockers up.

I then checked the valve clearances and matched upto haynes, along with electrode gaps etc.

Did a compression test got roughly 12/11.5 in all of the cylinders (This is on a 998 high compression engine).

Connected the ignition up and it started first time, quite a few fumes though! I knocked the idle speed down to 800, timed it to 5 degrees BTDC and adjusted the mixture best I could with a colourtune (got it to a bluey yellow flame, although did get the odd yellow flash).

Pulled out the drive went to drive it and it runs along fine with a fraction of throttle, anything more and I get a hiss (I'm assuming this is induction noise) and the car bogs down. Tried richening it up by about 4-5 flats and it didn't really seem to solve the problem, it may have helped, I couldn't really tell.

Now I know a rolling road tune is the way to go, but I could do with running the engine in for 500 miles or so with the new headgasket before I take it onto a rolling road and they rev it to 6k and blow the new headgasket! Also I'm not sure if I'd make it to the rolling road in this state.

Any advice on a temporary fix would be appreciated.

[miniboo]

speak to mlmptprsprots and AC Dodd will be able to sort you out a custom needle that will be pretty damn close to wht you need.

then once you are happy take it to a rolling road.

oh yeah he does custom advance curves aswell.

have a look for their forum....actually hold on

http://www.mlmotorsport.com/forums/

[tomtic]

Is there any certain length of time I should wait before taking it to a rolling road with the newly fitted head gasket? I heard it's really easy to blow the head gasket after it's just been fitted.

---

I've checked that site, but I thought the AAU shouldn't be too far away from what I need on a Stage 1 kit. Wondering if it could be something else that's causing the problem?

Haynes says 8 degrees BTDC on a mini 1000 (standard), and I've done the timing to roughly 4-5 degrees.

Not really sure on the mixture as I've got no way of checking it other than an OLD colourtune I have.

[ANDY J]

really you should have a AAA needle in and id advance the timing a touch and see how you go and as for running the head gasket in once its fitted thats about it you dont need to run it in for 500 miles?

[Big_Adam]

even AAA needles isn't great.

i had mine before stage 1, its was lovely. after....well it sucked big dangly donkey balls.

this is handy tho.
http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

[tomtic]

Seems the AAU isn't quite as rich as the AAA, but it's not far off I don't think.

Only thing I can do is trying to advance the timing :/

[ANDY J]

even AAA needles isn't great.

i had mine before stage 1, its was lovely. after....well it sucked big dangly donkey balls.

this is handy tho.
http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

hi all i can go by is what we did with a mates 1000 we had a 295 head 1.50 carb and a stage 1 kit with a AAA needle with elec dizzy and took it for a rolling road and they change the needle for a AAU i did say to my mate that they are making a mistake and they did , they put the AAA back in and they got 58 BHP out of it so im pretty happy with that and my mate is over the moon
58 BHP from a 1000

[Big_Adam]

Ok, the AAA needled sucks for MY engine then.

[tomtic]

What I'm saying is, I don't think the needle just make THAT much difference as they're both a similar needle. But the car is running really bad, as in it's undrivable. So I think it's either something is set wrong (timing or mixture) or I've got an air leak somewhere.

Are the HS4s known the leak anywhere? The rest of the joins in the system are new (Manifolds etc.) I know it's not impossible that they could be cracked or not sealing right, but I feel asthough I've had this problem before, but not to this extent. The only things that are left on the car which are standard are the engine and the carburettor really.

Edited by tomtic, 28 October 2006 - 11:33 PM.

[THE ANORAK]

probably obvious, but have you got oil in the carb ???

[tomtic]

Yes, there's oil in the dashpot. I am using a thicker oil than 3-in-1 as my standard 998 seemed to like that stuff. Not so sure if that's the case anymore though.

[Big_Adam]

i used this stuff called Hylomal (or somthing like that) Blue.
smeered on the gasgets.

I just asked my mate garry whos a tr7 nutter and thats what he thinks the problem could be too.

so hunt for leaks my friend!

edit,

he also suggest checking the vac adance is still ok and working.

Edited by Big_Adam, 28 October 2006 - 11:48 PM.

[tomtic]

How can I check if the vac advance is working ok?

And what do you mean he thinks what the problem is to, what is the problem lol? You mean the leak right?

Edited by tomtic, 28 October 2006 - 11:57 PM.

[Big_Adam]

yeah sorry. the leak.

hold on. i'll pull up the bit about testing the vac adavance,

Big_Adam says:
how do you test a vac adavce?
RedeyesUK says:
take the dizzy cap off
RedeyesUK says:
disconnect the vac hose at the carb end
RedeyesUK says:
and suck it
RedeyesUK says:
you should see the bits in the dizzy moving slightly
Big_Adam says:
k

[tomtic]

Oh yeah I always do that, tested it when I did the electronic ignition. I thought you meant to check whether I was actually getting a vacuum in the pipe.