38 replies to this topic

[ads7]

Can't help with an inspection service but just had a look at the ad.

Although a set of photos can't tell you everything the car looks good, very nice colour, similar to our own city.
As it's an 'e' model they are higher geared for excellent fuel economy.

I would ask the seller for receipts for the welding work.

For the price I recently saw a Mini at a local auction that looked to be original unmolested 998 car with no evidence of any welding having been done. Sills looked to be excellent and I had a really good look around it.

35k miles and immaculate, probably original paint with very light patination.

Sold for £5500 and if I was in the market again I would have bought it without hesitation.

Such cars are rare but they are out there it's a waiting game.

[RustyAutoCityE]

Had a look on Auto Trader and the one I can find in Blue in Sheffield does look very tidy.

 

Shame there are no pictures of the subframes/sills, you could always give them a call and request they send you some. 

 

If I was closer I would offer to go have a look at it for you.

 

If you haven't already do an MOT history check here, https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/

 

Gives you an idea of the life it has lived.

 

[barneyman]

Many thanks, such great help, which is very welcome.

 

So it seems a reasonable price so far...I will ask for any welding photos as well as subframe and sills photos, good idea.

 

checked the mot history and it passed in January after failing for these items... the first two sound most concerning to the untrained eye but I guess they have been replaced/fixed so all is now good?

 

• Nearside Front Upper Suspension arm ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
• Offside Steering rack gaiter missing or no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.1.3 (g) (ii))
• Headlamp not working on main beam both (4.1.1 (a) (ii))
• Offside Rear fog lamp not working (4.5.1 (a) (ii))
• Fuel cap/sealing device ineffective cap inop (6.1.3 (b) (i))

cheers!

[cal844]

Many thanks, such great help, which is very welcome.

So it seems a reasonable price so far...I will ask for any welding photos as well as subframe and sills photos, good idea.

checked the mot history and it passed in January after failing for these items... the first two sound most concerning to the untrained eye but I guess they have been replaced/fixed so all is now good?

• Nearside Front Upper Suspension arm ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
• Offside Steering rack gaiter missing or no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.1.3 (g) (ii))
• Headlamp not working on main beam both (4.1.1 (a) (ii))
• Offside Rear fog lamp not working (4.5.1 (a) (ii))
• Fuel cap/sealing device ineffective cap inop (6.1.3 (b) (i))

cheers!

Relatively cheap fixes for a mini

[ads7]

Very little wrong with that car at last mot. Ball joints are a consumable part that need regular renewal and a rubber boot perishing is normal.

As others have advised, get evidence of major work carried out from seller and let us know how you get on ?

[RustyAutoCityE]

Balljoints are a common wear item, while they are not fun to change I wouldn't let them put me off.

 

The steering gaiter issue could be used to check to make sure the work has been done. If it is still damaged it could indicate that the most recent MOT might not be as througher as it should have been.

[Haynes]

Reshimming ball joints replacing rubber gaiters and scratching your head over lights not working is book 1 page 1 of mini ownership!

[some1158]

Re. the sills, check it has the correct vented type not unvented 'oversills'. See http://www.theminifo...hey-look-like/ 

 

At this mileage I'd be surprised if the sills had been replaced but it will depend on how the car has been cared for, and clearly there has been some rust work needed in the past. It has presumably also been resprayed, hence lack of badges/decals...not a problem as such but suggests work has been done so check it has been done properly.

[Patrick]

Hey guys, I'm all new to this forum and have sort of the same question;

 

Recently I've been starting to have a look into the world of classic Mini's and I came across the Innocenti Mini's. 

I'm also looking for a first Mini and would like to tune/upgrade it a bit and make it more like a classic race Mini.

 

I was wondering how the Innocenti Mini's are compared to a Mini from the UK. 

Apart from some minor details they look fairly the same on the outside, but are there big mechanical differences?

[barneyman]

Hi,

 

An update for you after all the help you provided over these last few weeks. So we have bit the bullet and bought at 1992 mini mayfair 1.0 from a classic mini dealer down in the new forest.      White with black roof.

 

seems solid and he seemed to know his stuff; well more than me which isn't hard right now!

 

arrives on Wednesday just in time for my son, now he has finished school, to start getting used to it and to start thinking about what to do....

 

So far its maybe softening the suspension for a slightly smoother ride...my wife's request!...look at the brakes, exhaust, dash etc....quite what we do first we will decide after getting used to it..

 

anyway I had a rather newbie type question about jacks and axle stands...

 

so, we were thinking of these stands -

 

Silverline 763620 3 Tonne Axle Stands - Set of 2 - maybe get 4 in total so we can have the whole car up if necessary...

 

They go as high as 420mm...but when you look at most trolley jacks they only go up to around 350. In fact the one on amazon that is frequently bought with these axel stands is an RAC one up to 342mm?

 

So, my maybe stupid question is if the trolley only goes to 342mm how do you get the axle stands under the car? I assume you don't left the axel stands once under the car! We could get a trolley jack pad as well but this won't make up the difference?

 

I am sure I am missing something here but any pointers would be helpful. What do you use?

 

Cheers!

[cal844]

What I do is put a block of wood between the subframe and jack, then lift it so the block of wood gives the extra height needed

[RustyAutoCityE]

Same as Cal, if I need the extra hight I have a decent lump of wood to use with the jack.

 

If you are lifting with something on the jack, keep out from under the car and keep the wheels on, in case it slips off.

 

I brought a pair of "Hilka" 3 Tonne axle stands off ebay a little while ago, I would reccomend feel very solid.

 

I also have some yellow Halfords 2 Tonne, fine for most jobs, only brought the above as I wanted extras.

[MiniCarJack]

Is that the J reg Mayfair from Paul Higgs you've just bought? If so, looks like a cracking little car, congrats on the purchase 

 

As cal and rusty have said, I also use a trusty block of wood to achieve the extra height needed when using a trolley jack.

[barneyman]

Is that the J reg Mayfair from Paul Higgs you've just bought? If so, looks like a cracking little car, congrats on the purchase 

 

As cal and rusty have said, I also use a trusty block of wood to achieve the extra height needed when using a trolley jack.

 

thats the one, yes, arrives Wednesday...didn't fancy the a27 back to chichester as a first drive! lol

 

thanks for the help on the jacks...always helpful!

[humph]

Block of wood here too. Most important point to note when jacking a Mini is choosing the right points to put the jack under. There's lots of threads on here where this is debated, just don't use the floors/bodyshell.